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Starting A 23' Bucket Build... Suggestions And Comments

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by frfghtrob, Sep 7, 2007.

  1. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    OK, So I have made the decision to start building a 23 T-bucket. Reading everyone elses posts I have already contacted S.R.I and I am ordering the plans from him. I am starting from scratch and I want to get some feedback on what other people have found while building there own. I am working on a budget, not the penny pintching one, but it is still a budget. So I know there are many many T's out there so any and all comments are welcomed here! :D
     
  2. leon renaud
    Joined: Nov 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,937

    leon renaud
    Member
    from N.E. Ct.

    no matter who's plans you are building from get Total Performances assembly manual for their T kit.Best 25$ you'll spend on your T you can even buy just certain sections of it from their web site.they give you tons of info in that book.I'm using it as a starting point for my 27T rpu build.
     
  3. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    Good luck with yours. My better half, Flower, built her's from the rails up and she is really quite proud of it and drives the wheels off it. It has 14,000 miles in almost 2 years. That's alot of seat time for an open roadster. She LOVES her flathead too. As much as I like my sedan.......I enjoy going on runs with her, I have almost all of that 14,000 miles in the co-pilot seat.
     

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  4. can you build your own frame? If you can, then you'll have no problem putting a bucket together. One word of advice. For suspension components, buy new. Not nearly new, or almost new, NEW. If it's going to be a driver, don't go over board on the horsepower goodies.
     

  5. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 4,922

    phat rat
    Member

    She should be proud, looks great!
     
  6. streetfreakmustang
    Joined: Nov 30, 2006
    Posts: 307

    streetfreakmustang
    BANNED
    from Ohio

    If you are working on a budget have you considered buying someone elses unfinished project instead of starting from scratch? There seem to be alot of unfinished T's out there. Just about every large swap meets seems to have 1 or 2. Even if you get the basic frame, suspension and body and chuck all the cheap hideous chinese made billet the car probabaly has on it you may be further ahead.

    I saw a fiberglass 27 T at a show last year that was a 70's rod with a pinto engine , Ford 8" rear, worn but presentable interior and worn but somewhat presentable paint. Car had old style chromed front end, slot mags etc. Guy was asking $6500 and car sold for $4300.

    Car was running car but needed work. for $3500-4500k more probabaly could have turned it into something fairly decent.

    I would have bought it but cannot afford more than 1 car at this time
     
  7. s.r.i.
    Joined: Aug 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,078

    s.r.i.
    Member
    from Hell

    KEEP IT SIMPLE. Chrome looks ok in moderation, but you can spend thousands on chroming everything, and it just seems to blend together into nothingness. The cars are light. Ts might look cool with a blown big block thats bottle fed,,, but seriously, they RARELY stick the tires. Not admitting to any illegal racing BUT, many times I have sat next to a guy with a LOT more engine then me, only to watch them poof up in smoke. The biggest issues of building a T is trying to make it a caddilac. They are small, light and make one hell of a weekend warrior, they are not luxury cars, don't try to make them one. Oh, and thanks on the plans.
     
  8. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,771

    JOECOOL
    Member

    Some good advice there,all I would say is when some things get you frustrated,go work on another part of the car. It will help help your interest factor and your sanity .
    Building it is just as much fun as driving it ,take your time and don't be afraid to do something several times until you think it's RIGHT.
    best of luck.
     
  9. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    Hey guys, I havnt been on long enough to write back... This information is great! Would love to have some more! Keep it coming please! SRI I agree about the chrome. I went to a rod run at the coast last weekend. Some of the worst looking T's I have ever seen. Looks like the owners spent thousands on chrome, and $50 on a paint job!
     
  10. ibcalaveras
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 599

    ibcalaveras
    Member

    I have a 23T, the one I would suggest is that the front tires be narrow. 5 inch wide rim max. To me wide rims up front look out of porportion, plus the supension is not designed for wide rims. It will steer much better with narrow tires and the bump steer will be less too.
     

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  11. streetfreakmustang
    Joined: Nov 30, 2006
    Posts: 307

    streetfreakmustang
    BANNED
    from Ohio

    I agree. Also nothing worse looking than pro steet tires on back of a T. The back view is hideous. Nothing more than a 8-10 inch wide tire in the rear (probabaly won't have a problem on this site adhearing to that rule)

    8" whitewall drag slicks look the best.
     
  12. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    Im not much of a white wall guy. So what's the reasoning of not going with the wide look? I'am kinda partial to the big meats!
     
  13. Jet Doc
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 369

    Jet Doc
    Member

    Make it low !!!!!!!!!!
     

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  14. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    Ok so I have got a lot of different opinions here. What are most guys doing as far as the interior. I am def. not a fan of the old school vertical steering wheel. I want to get as much room in this thing as physically possible.
     
  15. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    What you need to begin:
    A body.
    Frame material(either .120 or 180 wall 2X3 or 2X4 rectangular box tubing).
    A dummy engine/trans if you're using a commonly available powertrain.
    The rearend.(with Model A or T transverse spring or coil-over shocks)
    A front axle assembly.(most use 28-34 Ford transverse springs)
    Steering box and column.(for fore-aft steering or cross-steering)

    Before spending too much money, do some serious study on what style bucket you want:
    23-25
    26-27
    "FAD" car
    Low and long
    Lakester style (tank out back)
    Track style (nose and turtledeck)
    This determines a lot of what you buy.

    Windshields, to be practical and useful should be 18" or so tall.
    Most use the 17-22 short post windshield mounts with one or two piece windshield.
    The 23-25 tall posts(stamped steel originals or cast aluminum repops) lean back at about 10-15* or so and can be shortened and modified to use one piece glass or shorter two piece.
    The 26-27 tall posts (original stamped steel or cast aluminum repops) can be shortened as desired.

    The steering column should run through the firewall to get the most interior room.
    Don't forget to use toeboards up front on the floor for best comfort and pedal placement.
    Don't make the mistake so many do by having a huge semicircle cut into the firewall and a great big trans hump.
    Use stock T seat springs for the seat bottom, at least. These are available new for about $100 or so and give a great ride even if your suspension isn't the best.
     
  16. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Sometimes buying an unfinished project IS the way to go BUT know your stuff before you do. If you buy something that is just not right you may have to start from scratch anyway, but sometimes a little massaging here and there gets you on the right path, and once in a while you might find a really well built starter car that just needs some odds and ends and paint & upholstery.
    Do the research, know your parts costs and give it a go.
    Run a "wanted" ad in your local paper, Penny Trader, Thrifty Nickle, or Green Sheet. Something like: "WANTED, Tbucket project car or parts, phone number and hours to call."
     
  17. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    This is awesome information! Keep it coming Guys... Any body have some pitcures of there builds? Frame designs. Dimmensions things like that! I cant wait to get the plans from SRI
     
  18. lolife
    Joined: May 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,125

    lolife
    Member

    I like the late 60's style. Turtle deck, Big slicks, big mags, Narrow 12 spoke on the front, blown small block, and a space frame with VW shocks on the front. Set it up for E-85 with an overdrive blower and a magneto. :eek:

    Nothing says T-bucket like a screaming blower and a flaming exhaust, especially while your waiting for the car hop...
     
  19. McKee
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,193

    McKee

    Hard to beat this one!
     

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  20. ibcalaveras
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 599

    ibcalaveras
    Member

    Too much rotational weight will shake the sit out of you. It also takes more HP to take off, and more effort to stop..
    My Tee was bought as a project , it had big tires on back 15X12s. on the first test drive I sheared a key on the axle. after that I got rid of the big meats.
     
  21. BuickinaBucket
    Joined: Jun 8, 2004
    Posts: 204

    BuickinaBucket
    Member
    from Newark, DE

    I can tell you this from experience:

    1. If you can get a started project with a TITLE. Will make life oh-so-much easier! No fighting with the law.

    2. It will take a zillion times more work to build than you ever dreamed, but it WILL be worth it in the end.

    I'm closing in on the end of my build now, so close I can taste it.
    First pic is the car back in 2004. I bought an unfinished roller with no title. I learned the hard way just how unfinished it was!

    [​IMG]

    Here's basically where it's at now. It's come a log way, but still needs a lot!

    [​IMG]
     
  22. shitbox2
    Joined: Sep 5, 2005
    Posts: 434

    shitbox2
    Member

    [​IMG]what kind of frame is this person running thanks eric
     
  23. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,602

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have a few suggestions. I don't necessarily agree that you can buy someone elses aborted project cheaper. I built my whole car for under 3500 bucks. I did a lot of swap meet searching and dumpster diving.

    I bought an old 60's body....1st mistake. If it has a bad gelcoat on it. Pass. I spent more time fixing the bad gelcoat than I did anything else.

    I used a 36 Ford front axle and spindles. No one wants those because they are the orphan axle. Thus...they are free a lot of times. Don't buy a dropped axle unless you just want one. You can alter the ride height with your fron spring perch.

    I used a junkyard donor car motor and tranny. 250 bucks. I hoped it would be ok and it was. The tranny wouldn't shift, I pulled the pan and it was full of mud dobber nests. Cleaned it.....shifted fine.

    I made all of my own parts, floorboards, tranny tunnels, ladder bars, roll bar, frame etc. The only thing I farmed out was the seat upholstery and the rear deck upholstery.

    Don't think you have to have a frame jig. I built mine on the concrete floor with chalk.

    Use the hamb classifieds. Stuff is cheap and it moves fast.
    Use your hamb alliance membership. If you are gonna hafta buy something anyway....use a fellow hamber.

    I'll attach a pic of my heap. This was about 2001 or so.
     

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  24. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    OK so I am loving the amount of info that is coming in. I had a thought run through my mind of putting a 27 roadster body on this project. I am def. partial to the true "T" but whats the thoughts on the roadster body
     
  25. Sounds like you need to figure out what YOU want.

    I know, i can never figure out what i want so am continually buying and selling uncompleted projects.

    Look thru car magazines, every internet site you can find, go to shows/cruises, browse HERE on the HAMB a lot!

    If you want a packaged deal check these guys http://www.spiritcars.com/

    Go to a show/cruise and ask someone who has a car in the style you like if you can sit in it, nothing worse than building something you aren't comfortable in.

    Someone elses old project is always good, usually will save you some bucks and time.

    Always seems to be a project for sale here on the HAMB at a good price.

    Decide what you want first is key.

    And figure out what you are going to do for a title before you spend time and money, that's a BIG headache.
     
  26. singledownloop
    Joined: Jan 10, 2004
    Posts: 581

    singledownloop
    Member

    If you've never driven a bucket you should try at least catch a ride in one.I've driven them and they can be pretty wild with not much motor.
     
  27. Kramer
    Joined: Mar 19, 2007
    Posts: 911

    Kramer
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Any other shots of this car?
     
  28. raaf
    Joined: Aug 27, 2002
    Posts: 762

    raaf
    Member

    also, you must make a solemn promise to never use brass components.
     
  29. h.i.
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 456

    h.i.
    Member
    from denver

    I had the same problem. Deciding what I really wanted to build. Now I have several junk bodies and no money. I finally settled on the 23 T because I have everything to build something cool for very little money. I just need to buy the steel. Also, I can learn from my mistakes cheaper on this build than I could on a sedan or coupe.

    Fred
     
  30. frfghtrob
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 23

    frfghtrob
    Member
    from Oregon

    Yea no brass parts for me! I hate that look. I did a little more research and its a BIG NO on the roadster body. I'm going with the 23 body and a 20" pickup bed. A little extra room. I think I am gonna use the Speedway body. Seems to be the most roomy body I can find.
     

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