** Just got off the phone with the guy and he says he has a replacement roof, it has the original running gear (4 Cyl.) that runs good, and that he wants $3,200 FOR IT!!! His rationale being there aren't too many 30 coupes left. Damn!*** All right - I will be the first to tell you I don't know every nuance of the early Fords to glance at a cowl and say, that's a 31 or this is a 33, or this is a 29. All I know is I want one some day. So when I stopped by an old salvage yard on Sunday (yeah, they were closed, but I like to peek through the bars anyway) I saw this in the parking lot, and went - huh?! Somebody hacked off the back and roof in a half-assed attempt to make a roadster, there are lots of shitty welds, and what looks like a hefty amount of bondo, but enough real metal and parts that my curiosity has been aroused. Before I go up there and ask 'em what they'll take for it, I wanted to know more about it, and knew you guys would fill me in from what you can see in the pics(I expect cynicism and sarcasm because I'm asking silly questions) SO here she is - thanks for taking a look. I don't know what the asking price is, and I don't know what a decent price would be, so ballpark estimates of what YOU might pay or laugh at would be appreciated. (I know, I know, not another, "how much is this worth") Hope you'll forgive me in the interests of getting this taken care of the traditional way.
That is a 30-31 Model A five window that as you said was converted to a roadster. With the shape of that body I would not pay more than 1k for it. The time and money it would take to get that thing back in shape you might be better off with a better start.
It either a '30 or '31 coupe that someone cut the roof off at a little about the belt line. If you can't get it for cheap, I'd pass. Nice 5 window Model A bodies aren't that hard to find.
30 or 31? I think it's pretty rough myself and can't imagine paying a lot for it ,,, but for less than 1000 I might bite. This IS Maine we're talking about - that's not rusty.
looks like a '30, from the grill...if its the right one...I have a deuce grill on mine, but, I think I remember the '31 having the top and bottom inserts, ??? I think... going by the grill, anyway...I agree, LOTS of bodys available...that one is hacked, AND rough, and they are ALL thin...they have been getting stupidly priced though, now...so I say, $1000.00/$2000.00 depending on convenience...( its close by, right?) so it saves shipping if there is not another one left even close to intact for miles around... where is the roof, and remains of the pillars? I'd want that, but thats just me...
Based on the two piece splash aprons, I would say 1930. It's a shame someone did that to a coupe, but, I have seen a lot done with less. First question I would ask is do they have the top that was whacked? I would look at it as a bad chop, someone probably has the rest of the top somewhere on a rustier body. It's gotta be priced right though, as there's a lot of stuff you won't use if doin' a rod, and decent bods are still out there. If it's cheap, and you want to - DO IT!!
Keep in mind also... how many of the parts that you'd be buying will you actually use? It would be a shame to give $2500 for the car because it is complete & only end up using the $700 body... & then only be able to get $1000 for what's left over. Don't let the fact that it is a relatively complete roller fool you into giving more than it is worth. Fresh black primer & red wheels sure make it easier to picture it as a done car - but it's not. Don't pay for it's "potential" Buy it for what it is. Keep us posted. JH
Another thing to think about... Say you only really want this car for the body & you have a $2500 budget. Say this car can be bought for $2500. You still might be better off to buy a good $2000 body & pay to have it shipped home. Or go get it yourself. I bought one in Canada (north of North Dakota) & shipped it home to TN - via Phoenix, AZ - & still came out ahead. Buy the best car you can afford. JH
If it runs and drives as-is, it's probably worth 2K or maybe 2500 at the top end, but for that it better come with a clean title and the remains of the roof. That body isn't that bad, there's gotta be some rotted out coupes out there with good roofs that could be used as donors to fix it for sure. The steering wheel/goofy seat make me wonder if it has any other modifications that can't be seen. Who knows, might not even be an engine in there. And I wonder if that's a real trunklid or just a chunk of sheetmetal? I'm sayin' that you need way more info to decide how much that's worth.
My guess would be early 1930. Gas tank up front is 30-31. Like was said there are some differences in the front splash apron. Looking at the gauge cluster, the oval speedometer was early to mid 30. Late 30 they went to the round type speedometer. Late 31 had the recessed firewall wher the gas shut off valvle was placed. Prior to that the gas shut off valve was under the dash inside the car. Thats if it had the original parts on it. only real way is through VIN number
Based on the oval speedo in the dash, as well as the two piece splash aprins, it's a 30, and most likely an early 30 (before july-ish) You see nice coupes complete and running on ePay for around $6000 in the past few weeks. With the top as screwed as that one is, I'd pay less than half of that. Factoring into the mix that you'll need a $300 - $500 decklid right off the bat, even if you keep it a convertible, I wouldn't go above $2500. The body is not complete to where you could put it back to nice. I think you may end up with something you're frustrated with more than happy with. Cough up an extra $1000 more in something nicer, and be happier with your sanity. EDIT: heh. I guess I type too slow! haha
Absolutely! I went to Alabama for my body...I trailered it home...$800.00 for gas, and food, and travelling...but, still worth it...no good bodies up here, and shipping would have been double...do the math...and yes, if you can afford to start with a better body, def. do so! If you are gonna hot rod it, with anything other than a mild, VERY early style approach, most of whats there is already obsolete, for your purposes...
Thanks for all the info and advice. This is just a shot in the dark. Lord knows I have enough projects, but it's not everyday you see something like that around here. It feels good to be armed with more detailed info. I figure IF I did get it, I'd probably smooth out the shitty work and make a roadster out of it, cuz I'm not banking on the top being around anymore. I peeked through the louvers and there appears to be a mill of some kind in there (straight 6 by the look) but I didn't even touch it (bad carma you know to help yourself to something that's not yours) Maine doesn't have the stringent title issues encountered in so many other states. Anything over 10 years only requires a bill of sale. If I approach these guys like I know what the hell I'm talking about, maybe they'll think twice about shining me on with an exorbitant price, especially if I walk away. Looks like it could be fun. I've seen you guys do the most amazing stuff with a lot less to work with. I'll try callin' tomorrow and see what I can see. Thanks again to everyone's swift and serious replies. I love the HAMB.
Great advice ... Always buy the BEST sheet metal you can. Even IF it means traveling ... Chassis, mechanical and some things can be easily changed and upgraded. Body work and patch panels can cost a TON $$$ ... and then you still have a patched up body... Pay more $$$ up front ... and end up with a good body . Now if you are one of these guys who has to have one of everything and way too many projects ... and never stay in love with what you buy ... add another pile to the collection ...
And there you have the reason hotrodders have been buying and parting out restored cars for the last 20 years or so! Mechanical parts are everywhere, but good straight not rotten body parts?? Leave this car to the rat builders and get your self something, even if just a body, doors and decklid that is better.
If they tell you it's worth some ridicules price, mention to them that you can by a all brand new steel body for less than 6K from Brookville. No shit welds or shit patches over rust, just all new fresh steel for 6k That thing, unless the drive train is minty, ain't worth more than 1k. I'd ball park low and offer 600 and then explain that the new body is only 6 k.
** Just got off the phone with the guy and he says he has a replacement roof, it has the original running gear (4 Cyl.) that runs good, and that he wants $3,200 FOR IT!!! His rationale being there aren't too many 30 coupes left. Damn!***
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