I'm about to box the rear section of the frame on my Dubble A truck, and was wondering about rust on the INSIDE of the boxed areas. Is there a way to rustproof these areas? Or once its closed up, I'm at the mercy of the internal rust gods? I was contemplating using Rust-o-leum high temp paint to pre-paint the inside of where I'm going to be welding, but I know that once the weld actually hits the areas where the paint is located, it will virtually burn off and disappear. I do know I'll get some rustproofing through this method, but what about just drilling a hole or something in the frame and opening up a spray can of paint and letting it go? Will it help, or will it be kind of like pissing in the wind?
I have only done this on frames before painting, if your frame is apart and you can flip it around after your work is done just dump a can of primer down into a hole left open somewhere after boxing and roll the frame around a bit, it seems to work pretty good but I'll have to let you know in another 30 or 40 years to be sure.
I've heard of guys dumping Por-15 inside the frame rails pretty much just like Sixcarb was talking about.
Even if you don't live in AZ I doubt you have much to worry about. Your frame is already how many years old and is it rusted through. Painting the inside of the frame may give you piece of mind but I don't think it really matters.
I used a J.C. Whitney undercoating gun with an assortment of long extension hoses and various nozzles to squirt a couple of pints of "Wurth Cavity Wax" into my boxed frame. I had to thin the cavity wax stuff down a little with mineral spirits because it was too sludgy and clumpy to spray through the undercoating gun as is. I think it would help to spray it on a warmer day too. It makes a big mess and the stuff is yellow, so now I have big yellow stains on the driveway. It's supposed to last at least 30 years though as a rust proofer. It leaves a gummy thick yellow coating on the inside of the frame. You can clean up the excess with "mineral spirits". I taped up all the holes up and down my frame, but the excess oozed out through the ends of the frame rails all over the driveway. I heard they now sell the Wurth Cavity Wax stuff in spray cans with attachments, but haven't seen it for sale anywhere though. It comes from Germany. It's supposed to be pretty popular among restorers in Europe, but hard to find here. If you use it, put lots of newspapers down on the driveway, because this slop makes a real nice permanent yellow mess on concrete.
I´ve grease/ wax based cavity sealer in my cars framerails and rockers. Box the frame, drill a couple of holes and spray the wax/ grease into the cavitys via hose and nozzle. The spray spreads really well and covers every corner.
<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" width="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">there is no real way to rust proof or stop rust paint, powdercoat, undercoat just slowes it down. </TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on"> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
If you sandblast the rails and remove all of the rust before you box them you can spray a weld-thru primer or other zinc containing coating on all of the interior surfaces of the rails before you box'em up. After they're coated and welded up you can douche the insides of the rails with LPS-3, cavity wax, or our choice of oil/wax based protectants inside the rails. Chances are its older than you are already and it'll probably be here longer than you are (especially since your outside the rust belt) with a blast and prime prior to assembly. If you leave some breathing and drain holes in the rails they'll be just fine. -Bigchief.
Goztrider, Aircraft supply places sell an aerosol can of corrosion inhibitor. I think you can find it if you go that direction. If not, then there was a product used to spray the inside of high-end steel bicycle frames to prevent rust. If you need some I can try and find it for you. (I run a bike store)
take it to a decent body shop and the should have a rustproofing wand that will spray a rust inhibitor in a 360 degree pattern inside the frame rail. it's the same proces used when they section a pillar or any other enclosed space. shouldn't be too pricey...
POR-15 the inside of the frame before boxing. Grind back 1/4" for welding. Know you have at least protected the amount of frame the factory considers necessary, and don't worry about the inside of the new plate.
Squirrely, you got room for me and muh yungunz? We's all goanna move in wit you! I know the frame is around 78-80 years old, and I know that I probably won't ever have a problem with it rusting out, but I'm more concerned about having water get up inside the areas and drain/leach out rust stains on the frame and other areas - if that makes sense. The idea would be to shield it and at least halfway prevent this from occuring.
Here is a pic of my model AA (do not worry, I have the doors hidden away) Why are you boxing the rear of the frame, they are HEAVY, just curious.
The reason I'm boxing the rear section (from the rear-most crossmember back is because of how I have my parallel leaf sprung 9" rear end mounted. I also intend to eventually install a trailer hitch to pull a small camper with for the wife and I to bypass the hotels. Check out the picture and you'll be able to see what I'm talking about. I know they are heavy, but to me, this is the weakest part, as it narrows down to only 2" in this area. I'm actually tying the rear frame rails together, as well as boxing the side rails to the closest crossmember. It'd probably be okay, but with Mr. Murphy and his laws following me around, I'd rather err on the side of too much than not enough.
3M makes a "weld through" primer that works really well, quite expensive though 22 bucks for a rattle can
In Land Rover circles, its not uncommon to acid dip then galvanize the frame. If you do, make sure you have drain/vent holes. -Jeff