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The stuck bolt blues Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fiftyfiveford, Apr 16, 2007.

  1. fiftyfiveford
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 668

    fiftyfiveford
    Member

    This weekend I was in the process of removing the coil springs from my 51 chev. As per the shop manual, I unbolted the lower control arm shaft and tap out the bolts. but... I have one bolt that has become one with the car.

    Whats the best way to remove a stuck bolt? I figure my options are to cut the threads flush and then drill it out, or I could air chisel off the head of the bolt. The bolt goes through the frame rail, will an air chisel cause more harm than good?

    Funny thing is the nut and lock washer came off without any problems, now I just have the bolt.

    Any advice would be awesome.

    Thx, Simon
     
  2. Goztrider
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 3,066

    Goztrider
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    I recently ran into this problem with a junkyard rear end. Had EVERYTHING removed and out except for one rear spring eyebolt. I wound up leaving it there, intending to get back over there with a portable sawsall and a prybar to spread the bracket and cut the bolt. I figured since they won't let me use a torch that'd be the only way.

    Good luck getting it out!
     
  3. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Not sure of your particular application, but my sequence is penetrant, impact, and if no rubber or combustible matls, heat. Sometimes a water saturated cloth will protect neighboring rubber bushings...try searching the rusted bolt threads here, some guys have mentioned some good penetrant stories. After re-reading, can you get a hold of an air wrench, and an impact socket?
     
  4. happy hoppy
    Joined: Apr 23, 2001
    Posts: 2,327

    happy hoppy
    Member

    yes penetrant !
    I then tap the bolt, apply more penetrant, tap ,tap....
    do this for a good while, I have always had them come lose this way.
     

  5. Mr. OAM
    Joined: Apr 15, 2007
    Posts: 15

    Mr. OAM
    Member
    from Ohio

    PB Blaster..........'nuff said.

    That stuff has done wonders for me. If that doesn't get it by itself (you might have to apply it several times and allow it to work overnight) then apply an air hammer to the end opposite the head. If it doesn't come out with PB Blaster and an air hammer it can't come out.


    Steve
     
  6. needachev
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 17

    needachev
    Member

    pb blaster has worked wonders for me. i'm stuck in a similar situation. the through bolts for the rear of front leafs are stuck and i couldn't break them loose at all. i soaked em in pb everyday for a week, went out this past weekend, came undone with minimal force, didn't have to heat 'em. pb blast everything
     
  7. Heat the bolt... not the metal around the bolt.

    The bolt will expand in the hole and press outward against the sides of the hole. This will re-align the molecules in the bolt and, also, crush any oxidation between the bolt and the hole. Let the bolt cool completely. Metal shrinks to smaller than original size when heated red hot and cooled. It should come right out.

    DO NOT strike the bolt while it's hot...


    JOE:cool:
     
  8. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    been there done that, , , can you say "hot riviting" ? :mad: :eek:
     
  9. topless54
    Joined: Jul 7, 2005
    Posts: 200

    topless54
    Member

    If none of the above listed solutions help, go to the upright end of the control arm and take the spring out that way. Don't know about re-assy cause usually when coil springs come out of my frt ends, they lose weight before going back in!
     

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