Hello, I am trying to get my 31 Tudor licensed, but now in Iowa the Wisconsin title dated in 1975 will not work without having a IA DOT person look at the car to 'verify' it because it is an out of state title/car and past the model year of 1960. The 1931 Ford Wisconsin title I have for it only has six digits. Could this be correct? Did Ford start over every model year with *A1*, *A2*, *A3*, etc... or did he start that numbering system with the 1928 model year ond go up from there? Nowadays the sequence number starts over, but what about then? My Wisconsin title also has 'WIS' after the six digits. I know the frame would not have that. The only letter I know it would have is the letter 'A.' My car did not come with a frame, but I've since purchased one. I cannot find any numbers on it where I've found them on two of my other frames. Any help is appreciated,. Thanks!! Jon
I believe they started in 1928 with star A2 but don't quote me and it should be on the top of the frame about where the clutch pedal should be. 2 Cents.
First off, you have to put some no on the frame. Sounds like Wi gave some new no. Well I guess if you can`t get the job done, call me and I`ll come and pick it up
what you have sounds like a state issued tittle. any time i have had to get a tittle for a car with out one they got a 6 numbers then the state after it. most times it was a sticker they stuck on it that had the numbers typed in and was on a decal that if you peeled it off would pull apart and void would pull apart voiding the numbers.
Did Ford start over every model year with *A1*, *A2*, *A3*, etc... or did they start that numbering system with the 1928 model year and continue on through 1931 from there? Nowadays the sequence number starts over, but what about then? Jon
1928 is 5276-810122,1929 is 810123-2742695 ,1930 is2742696-4237500,31 is 4237501-4830806 the number can break down more to tell you the month it was built,for instance comets car was built in may of 1930,id have to say slag customs is right on .
Can you go to a different office? I just transferred a 1955 California title from a 1940 Ford Coupe into my name without them even blinking. The only question she had was on the model and color, and I told them it was a "rust" colored Standard model. They acted like it would just be easier to finish me up and move me out. Didn't even THINK about inspecting the car (good thing, too).
Alchemy, Can you help me? I'd pay for all the fees. I spoke to another guy G. White from Marshall County Sunday. He did not know if he would be able to do it. I have a brother who lives in Melbourne, but works in Ankeny, so he can't do it during the day. I believe I could put my trust in a fellow HAMBer. I'd transfer it to my name in a few months. I won't get the car done for awhile anyways. Once it is an IA title, I don't think I'll have any other problems. PLMK, Thanks!! Jon
I've found the VIN# on both my motor and frame on my '28-29 AA truck. The one on the motor is: A307XXXX The one on the frame is AA145XXXX If I understand these designations correctly, and what I have quoted here from a previous post, the motor would be considered an early 1930 model, and the body/frame would be considered a mid 1929 model? I guess I'm going to wind up trying to do an Oklahoma Title-42 process on this AA truck, and am wondering about these numbers so as to make sure the paperwork is correct. Thanks!
You have a Wisconsin issued replacement serial number, not a Ford number, and if the Wisconsin issued plate or sticker is gone it is now worthless if inspection is needed! Just in case, I would try to call Wisconsin DMV and ask what they put where...maybe they actually stamped it in metal somewhere.
just grind off the number on the block and restamp the frame number on the block cures all headaches the engine number and the frame number were the same from the factory. through the year with rebuilt motors and changed motors the numbers are now different in 90% of all Model A's if your title matches your frame then just transfer that number to the motor...... its not a stinking yenko chevelle with those number nazi's make your worries real easy buy the stamps from ford barn or mcmaster tk
Do you think that they actually know where the numbers are supposed to be? I had a trophy shop engrave the numbers on a body number plaque that I bought for a buck fifty from Mac's. I riveted it to the firewall, and they came out and inspected it. Done. Rich
It is unusual to find a Model A with a VIN stamped into the frame but there are some. A's were registered by the Engine number stamped in the driver's side of the block just above the water neck. The numbers had a five-pointed star stamped at beginning and ending, first letter A (AA if 1-ton truck), then number sequence. You didn't say whether your car is a hotrod or not or if it has an original engine in it. You could stamp the six-digit number and WIS into the frame above the steering box mount and see what happens, or stamp the numbers into an aluminum plate(as you would buy at a trophy place about the size of a dog tag) and rivet, or sheet metal screw, it to the firewall. Then go to a different office and get the thing inspected and handled.
All Model A frames were stamped at the factory on the left frame rail close to the clutch pedal. The number always matched the original factory engine number. The body covers the frame in this area so you have to remove the body to see it. A lot of these were defaced by corrosion over the years and are difficult to find and read. I use welder's soapstone to bring out the numbers. It works pretty good.
One problem in this discussion is; Ford manufactured ALL Model "A" engines - both car and truck - at the River Rouge plant in Detroit. As they were built - the engines - the serial number was stamped on the left side of the engine just above the water outlet. (every "A" engine built by Ford was assigned a serial number) Engines were shipped in "batches" - whatever number the the assembly plant - anywhere in the world - they were being shipped to needed. Even though there are many opinions as to which was the correct date; the number on the side of the ORIGINAL engine was - normally - stamped on the frame; REGARDLESS of the date the engine was built. Just after the Toronto Canada assembly plant went into production; engine numbers "jumped" all over the place in Canada as Ford rushed to supply engines worldwide. In 1928 and '29 CAR engines used ONE "A" at the FRONT of the serial number on the engine. TRUCK engines had TWO "A's." (Ford dropped the two "A's" for truck engines sometime in 1930 - car and truck engines for the most part were identical) In Greg's case, the engine number and the frame number don't match. It was probably a case of someone changing engines. A car engine dropped into a truck. In an earlier thread I indicated that the FRAME SERIAL NUMBER "trumps" an ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER. In other words; the FRAME number will be his VIN. Greg, was the frame number on the RIGHT SIDE??
My 31 coupes frame number could not be seen until I took the body off the frame to make sure it matched the title because the original motor was gone and a 30 was in it. It was just barely under the front of the cowl, I guess about where the pedals are
All I can say here is that "Dave, you are the man!" No, the VIN was on the left side, but it was almost all the way to the rolled edge of the frame rail. I had to move the cab back about 24", and then I went ahead and nipped some of the splash apron back for frame clearance since it was rusted already. Due to the corrosion from where the rubber and wood contacted the frame, the more I tried to use the wire wheel to reveal the digits, the worse they started to look. I can see the indent where the last star is supposed to be, and from comparing my stamps to the portions of what I could see and what I can best guess at, I'm going to try to roll the dice and see what the State DMV says whether or not it is in use. I may also try to get a title for the motor as well, since it would be better used by someone else down the line to make titling their toy easier. Shown below is the vin location (in the pink area) on the motor. I don't know if this is a "standard" location for the VIN on the motor, but this one is right there as shown. Dave, if you ever get down this way, give me a holler and we'll drink a few cold one's together - I feel I owe you that much at least. If you catch me soon enough, I'll still have some Okie backwoods white lightnin to pull on!
Good to hear Greg. If the number on the frame is VERY faint; there is a way to "raise" the number using an acid - the name of which has slipped my memory - that you "paint" over the area; leave for a few moments, and the acid will eat the softer metal around the numbers slightly, and expose the original stamped numbers. Do a search on "acid etching serial numbers" and see if any information "pops up." Humm ... "White Lightnin'", haven't had any in a spell; your on!
YES DO! Use the engine serial number if you have it. (but be careful someone else DOESN'T use the same number, or two of you will have some explaining to do!!)
I have already titled my 31. Minnesota title, titled in Wisconsin. No questions asked, didn't look at the car. Wisconsin state did call back and ask what model it was though.
I'll do just that and see what I can figure out and let you know. I was just lookin', and see that you're on the way to Alaska. When the wifey and I take this AA on the roadtrip up thataway, I'll see if I can smuggle a bit across the border and bring it yer way. Worse case senario to get it across - put it in the fuel tank! It should work?
Worth a try Greg. I would carefully clean the frame rail where the number is; then try magnafluxing from different angles.
Here's my experience. My '29 A Tudor came with no frame number, just the number on the block. It was 6-7 digits, and didn't have an A or AA in front of it. Got it titled, and am still thanking my lucky stars for that!
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