Frame Paint Question - Brush, Spray or Rattle Can?

Hi.
The frame looks sharp, nice job!

If the chassis is completly bare and sand blasted, I use epoxy primer followed by black urethane.
For the times when I'm doing a "frame on job", degrease the area, sand and wire brush as best I can then use good old Rutoleum satin black spray or brush. It looks nice, holds up well, is inexpensive, and touches up well too.
You can prime with Rustoleum rusty metal primer if wanted, but let it dry thoroughly. It's a fish oil based primer that seeps into the rust to drive out moisture.
Lately I've been using Duplicolor undercoating to spray inner panels and floor pans. The stuff dries fast, stcks like crazy, is hard and leaves a textured finish.
For inside the frame, get a cheap undercoating gun that screws onto body shutz cans. Empty the can fill with a thinned paint, attach a hose onto the wand, poke it into all the holes you can and blast away.

 

REMBER to invite the E.P.A. to your frame dipping party

 

Jason...dude...you're grossly over-thinkin this deal. Throw a little logic at what you're doing and just paint it. You buildin a riddler winner here? Probably not. You just want it to last. Logic? How about some old rags tied to a wire, dipped in POR15 and shoved into the areas you can't see. How often will the car see salt, snow, mud, etc? I'll bet not very. Do it nice where you'll see it the most like around the motor and such. You're building a driver that's gonna damn near drag the ground when it's done. If it's a show car then completely disassemble the frame, weld and repair whatever you need to, and send it out for powdercoat. They do the blasting and all and you get back what looks like an OEM frame. Probably about a grand or less for something that big. Otherwise, refer back to the logic section. As long as it's clean and black...wtf, right?

 

Their regional HQ is here in town...

~Jason

 

Actually, as a daily driver here in Kansas City it will see a lot of mud, snow, sand and salt (and other unmentionables). The frame is partially full of dry dust & dirt in places at present, which is one of the reasons I wanted to take the body off and do it up nice. I know, I'm of the same persuasion that as long as it's clean and black it's okay, but man it really, really needs a good cleaning, de-rusting and painting, and I just want to do it good enough so that I don't have to do it again until I retire.

It does seem like I'm over-thinking things, but unfortunately at the time it's all I can afford to do at the moment. Besides, it's better to find out now while exploring all the avenues I can if the grass is really greener on the other side of the fence than after I spent time and money on something that doesn't 'do it' for me.

I'm just trying to hammer down a plan so I can set some goals (financial, etc) to shoot for, and to figure out what the best options I have for my budget are (and to have a 'plan B' or 'plan C' to fall back on that's equally satisfying as the first option).

~Jason

 

On our dirt stock cars, we use VHT rollbar & chassis epoxy paint.Their ad says,'' ..provides a powder coat-like finish which resembles a porcelin surface " .It comes in gloss black or satin black for around $6. bucks at most stockcar vendors and I think JEG'S sells it. It holds up good on dirt/red clay tracks and I'll be using on my '58 Ford.

 

I actually have them bookmarked!:
http://www.vhtpaint.com/

~Jason

 

slightly off- topic but not really:
When it is time, I'll probably go the rustoleum route. I figure the frame will need to be totally free of surface rust etc for the best finish and longevity. What's a reasonable price to pay to have an average frame sand blasted or soda blasted?

 

That's a good question. As with anything, I'm betting it varies with the quality of work and your location.

~Jason

 

That would be exactly correct. The best way to know is to call around for a quote... and then find out who has a good reputation before jobbing it out.

 

I'll bet if you asked around at your local track or strip there's lots of guys that could tell you where to get the best bang for your buck.

~Jason

 

All methods mentioned work unless you will be in the Grand National Roadster show.

If you can't paint ...it you can't see it.

I personally use rustoleum cans 'cause it is quick and cheap.

Surface prep is more important!