Got my hemi more dialed in and she run’s awesome. https://m.youtube.com/shorts/UAz43MRisNsThinking about trying to use the fluid drive more now just to get her rolling and more easy to move around the garage and yard. But I can’t seem to find a clutch for the fluid drive that’s under 300 bucks brand new. I don’t want to put that much into a trans that I don’t intend to keep in the car and not to mention I don’t even know if it works. Anyone know where I could find a used one? Or a cheap new one? The local auto parts stores are of no help
If you think the clutch is shot on your Fluid Drive simply because it seems to be slipping badly, it may be working exactly as designed. The clutch is mainly there facilitate engine starting and shifting between forward and reverse gears. Make sure the fluid level is up in the trans and fluid coupling. Some have their own isolated oil supply, others were fed with engine oil supplied from the crankcase. I think I'm pointing you in the right direction on this. If not, somebody else will come along shortly and straighten us both out.
Where are you located? We have a parts car at work that we took a good transmission out of. I bet the clutch is good also.
I just simply do not have a clutch at all. Whoever set my 53 hemi in my 51 imperial didn’t bolt anything down and didn’t put the clutch disk or pressure plate back on the fluid coupling.
Well . . . That's a whole different kettle of fish then. If you could even find a cheap, worn out, used up pressure plate and disc I wonder if Fort Wayne Clutch could rebuild it for you. Though it still might be more than you want to spend on a "yard car". https://fortwayneclutch.com/
Let me know man please. Depending on what you want for the clutch I’m not worried about shipping price
The money your going to dump into that fluid drive is crazy. I'd kick it to the curb. Put that money towards a modern OD auto trans that will actually compliment the Hemi build. Unless your Hemi has the extended bell, the trans bolt pattern is the same as a Chrysler small block (LA 273, 318, 340, 360 or a Magnum 5.2 or 5.9), you just need a spacer, a flywheel (for the Hemi crank), and a starter (from memory), or you can probably buy a conversion kit to use a different brand of transmission.
As stated I’m just trying to get it working enough to be able to move my car around as needed until I can save enough to buy the adapter I want from hot heads. My hemi is a long bell, so the 727 adapter I want is 1100 plus shipping from hot heads or 1350 plus shipping from speed gems . Gonna take me a while to save that kind of cash to drop all at once.
Pls I’m most likely going to have to swap my rear end and driveshaft out when I do that because my driveshaft doesent have u joints
@gene-koning is spot on, in his advice about not dumping any more money into that fluid drive unit. My old 47 Dodge, Model D-24, 3 window business coupe, had one of those in it. It worked but I knew it was never going to be a viable power train. As cool as the car was, I am glad that I eventually sold it, and its now in some one else's hands as it lives on!
I literally have no money into the fluid drive trans besides just buying the car. Just want to make it move for now until I get the money up to buy the hot heads 727 adapter I want or make an adapter myself
The Ball & Trunion u-joint isn't actually under the rubber boot. That is to allow for movement in and out and some swivel. The "balls" are inside the metal can on a shaft and pin. All Chrysler products used those thru 1965 or there abouts. Not always the easiest thing to replace but last nearly forever if the boot is good. Dave
Probably won’t work with a 727 though? Which is eventually what’s going in this car when I can get the money for the adapter
If your Fluid Drive has a drum parking brake mounted on the rear of the trans, I suspect that may cause you problems as well.
I actually have a 727 with ball and trunion flange but if you are talking to the rear end u-joint there should be adapters available or could be made to attach a modern u-joint or if you have the driveshaft, have a modern slip yoke and u-joint added to the driveshaft when you have it modified and run the ball and trunion at the rear. Always ways to make it work. Dave
Long bell is going to be fluid drive, until adapters and driveshaft mods are in the budget. I'd check local places and post wanted ads. The parts are very low demand, you just need to find the person who has them languishing in storage. You should be able to get them for a six pack or less. I'm not up on the variations over the years, so make sure you get hold of the right stuff. Another direction is to source a 'tug'. You've got nice shop equipment and a snowmobile in the background. For the couple hundred bucks that the new parts cost, you might find a 3 or 4 wheeler to drag the car around AND have some fun. EDIT: or a riding mower, something that can drag rollers around.
I’m going to keep looking around for one. Thank you it’s a good garage for a rental house. The snowmobile is a friend of mines. Dragging things around gets old. I just want to get in it and move it. My lady is disabled and can’t really help and I have no friends that come around
You might give these people a call. They were helpful on my stuff. https://mooresautosalvage.com/parts/ New seems to be 350-450 online.
I will give them a try. I know they’re that much new I’ve looked. Like I said I am not paying that much for a clutch for a trans that I plan to get rid of and don’t even know if it works anyway
I'm 95% sure the clutch and pressure plate in the attached pictures are from a 1950 Desoto fluid drive. That would be a flathead 6. I don't know if it would work with your application but if you're interested PM me. You can have it for the cost of shipping.
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