Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Proud to say that for 4 years now, mine has sat without collecting clutter. Mind you, I can't get to it because it's folded up on the top shelf of my pallet rack behind a bunch of other junk, but...

 

I’m running a floor button on one car and keyless pull to start, push to stop on another car.

 

These are available everywhere. I would paint the ring black and mount it in the upper left corner of the black dash surround. I take it that the hole right of center in the insert is for the ignition switch. I run this button with the same solenoid. I also ran my positive battery cable to a shut-off and then to the solenoid.
Warren

 

Good progress report. I am curious what points you’re testing for leaks. If your gonna have to pull the lines off to paint the frame testing every junction would seem like waisted effort to me?

Unless you’ll drive the car as is and then take it all back apart later?

 

on my 33 pickup, used two holes in the dash, one for a key for running than an old chrome starter button. I have no clue what its out of. You could use a 48-51 F1 starter button as well. We actually use those as the door poppers on Taboo, lol.

 

Get yourself some flare nut wrenches (the best you can afford) if you don't already own a set, that will let you crank down on the flare nuts without risking spreading the regular box wrench jaws and rounding off the hex corners of the nuts. I have my Snap On ones that I bring home from work since the cheapies I got from Linda Mar ACE (in the 90's no less) don't have the meat around the wrench heads to hold the proper dimensions while tightening. If you can find a tool truck you can just grab the sizes you need rather than the entire set since that would run you almost $400, there may even be used ones available if you ask the rep, usually around 35% or so cheaper than new.

 

Getting caught up...I have been absent for a bit.... and happy belated birthday. Looking great but I'm having a hard time getting my head around the springy, coiled stuff around the brake lines. I'm just wondering about NiCop and vibration....maybe my worries are unfounded.
Carry on

 

@winduptoy the coiled spring is basically a rock gaurd of sorts m. I’ve seen them on some pretty ancient hulks so I assume they are pretty traditional.

the nicop shouldnt vibrate any more than anything else does when properly supported. Lots of over seas cars run it from the factory and I think it being a little softer probably keeps from any real chance of work hardening and failing.

 

let's just hope he doesn't solder any connections on the brake light switch--would be a ticking time bomb!

 

If you go on eBay and search for vintage Snap On flare nut wrenches and flare nut crow's foot sockets, deals can be had.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...l1313&_nkw=vintage+snap+on+flare+nut&_sacat=0

They will still carry the lifetime warranty! This is how I get all of my Snap On stuff!

You can always borrow mine. It's not like I am doing brake work every day, or long term.

 

I got all my odd ball wrenches like that in a gallon ziplock bag at estate sales. Lots of people go for the big ticket items and then pass on the bag of smelly screw drivers and wrench’s but more often than not it’s got a couple big $$ wrench’s hiding in there.

then you’ve got the right wrench and some some new chisels
Lol

 

Ebay vintage is where it is at, especially if they have "owner's marks" on them.

The rancid tool collecting crowd does not want the marked ones!

This is how I have a full complement of Snap On tools, and no debt!

 

Also I saw a video the other day that you can wash your tools that smell like vomit in a baking powder / water mix and it will neutralize the off gasing stink coming from the handles

 

You're giving away our eBay secrets.

 

The awful smell is usually from the early plastics used for screwdriver and nut driver handles.
I think a lot of them were made of Casein (milk) plastic, and kind of want to revert to fifty+ year old milk.
They also will induce rusting in near by tools, but this can be minimized by giving them a soap and water bath every few years.

 

Yup that’s exactly what’s going on the handles are stinking it up. Dawn dish soap will neutralize a mild acid. I can’t recall exactly what’s happening but there was acid involved lol

 

In the '60s a lot of times when we didn't know what was happening acid was involved.

 

Still true.

 

I have an old toolbox that was my great uncle's and it smells so bad I can't even stand to open it. It makes me gag. I have never been able to figure it out because nothing inside is even dirty. That explains it... it has always been in a shed/garage in the heat and humidity.

 

“Acetate-handled screwdrivers are fairly tough, durable, and easy to clean, but like a lot of materials they age over time and outgas. What’s basically happening is that the Cellulose Acetate Butyrate (CAB) material is slowly decomposing, and the byproduct has a particular smell to it.

I’ve read that it’s the butyric acid component from the chemical breakdown that causes the vomit-like stink.”

there that’s basically what I had seen, would explain the neutralizing bath. Wash that tool box and get a lot of usable tools back!

ok back to joeys roadster guys lol

 

Try this for tight 90’s with the fitting….

 

A steering box and a crate to sit on and we’d have a fun video to watch I’m sure of it, but with those local hills I suppose waiting for brakes is ideal


Thanks for the update, curious to see you attach the lines to the banjo.

 

Joey,

Congratulations on the major accomplishment of having a complete driveline unit!! You're making great progress and I am excited to see this version running and driving.

Brian