Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Crossmember removed today. Easy.
Plasma cutter was just the right tool.
30 minutes including setup time.
Cleaned up the edges so I can box the frame.
Someone else put that crossmember in and it just wasn’t what I needed.
Front and rear suspension will also be changed (but I’m not supposed to talk about it on the HAMB).
1934 Chevy Master 5W coupe

 

That thing will weigh 1/2 of what it did.

 

The book I bought about building a hot rod frame has not arrived in the mail yet. I know nothing about hot rod frames. I’ve seen plenty of pictures, but I have no idea how people go about designing the proper stance and wheelbase.
I will go with a solid rear axle and more traditional front suspension. I don’t know if I’ll install Chevy parallel leaf springs or a Ford style spring.
Meanwhile, my recently purchased shrinker and stretcher seems to be working pretty good. The set up is temporary.

 

Jay, here's a link to a company that can help you if needed for chassis parts for your '34 Chevy Master - I bought my boxing plates here: Full & Partial Boxing Plates in Ohio | Progressive Automotive
I would suggest that you fill in all of those holes that you don't need before you box your frame, center x-member, etc.

 

I’m thinking I should remove these items before boxing the frame. They can be welded to the boxed frame later if needed. The bracket for the brakes will likely be needed but that crossmember might not be needed.
What would you recommend?

 

I’m thinking I should remove these items before boxing the frame. They can be welded to the boxed frame later if needed. The bracket for the brakes will likely be needed but that crossmember might not be needed.
What would you recommend?
Yes - those can go away before boxing the frame but I would highly recommend you get some temporary cross bracing in it before cutting out that cross member and welding in boxing plates.

When I boxed mine I had 5 temporary cross bars tacked in and the frame still bowed out a bit in between the cross bars.

 

Like @Countn'Carbs said, spot weld some straight bracing from the bottom so you can see what's going on from the top - meaning when or if you decide on a center x-member (I would recommend and many others). Pricing is very good for laser cut boxing plates - I couldn't be happier with how mine turned out!

That cross member within your yellow circle may be for the original transmission? That needs to be cut out and replaced with a replacement for whichever transmission you decide to go with. They're usually offered with the center x-member that you may choose. Since you're going with a classic or more modern V-8, you will need to stiffen up your frame for sure. Get all those holes filled before you box the frame, it's much easier to get to before the boxing takes place. Now the front suspension...........

 

31chevymike - the pic you shared is where I’m headed. Looks like a Vega steering box, spring over axle with (???) inch drop.
I was thinking the same about filling frame holes now and box it later.
As far as bracing the frame before boxing . . . I have a good supply of 12 gauge angle iron I can use to triangulate side to side on the bottom flange of the frame to prevent bowing. Is that enough?

 

Hey Jay, as long as your bracing is spot welded on the bottom of your framerails, they should work fine. Probably don't need that much, they'll do the job as intended. You should take some measurements to see how square your rails are BEFORE you brace them. Your rails look very good; mine took 6 hours to straighten before they were boxed and center x-member were welded in. Your hot rod chassis book when it arrives will help you a great deal. You're on the right path brother - keep your progress going!

The drop on my axle is 4" and yes, my steering box is a GM Vega unit, set up for cross steering. I did not want to deal with any possibility of "death wobble", so the cross steering will help tremendously. I even have both pan hard bars to help even further...

 

Well, I rolled my '31 coupe out of the garage under its own power for the first time yesterday and got a few pix of it. I still have a punch list of things to fix or adjust but I hope to take it out on the road sometime this weekend.
1931 Sport Coupe, 250 inline six, Powerglide, S-10 rear end.

In the sun right side by brokedownbiker posted May 21, 2024 at 11:24 AM

In the sun left side by brokedownbiker posted May 21, 2024 at 11:24 AM

In the sun right side02 by brokedownbiker posted May 21, 2024 at 11:24 AM

 

Really Nice setup you got there. Pretty much the same as im thinkin. 4 inch drop with model a crossmember.

 

You're the only other hamb member that I've seen so far with a '31 Chevy 5 window coupe in near completion other than my own... Believe me, I'm proud of your efforts - looks like you are bolting on fenders soon enough!

 

That should be a fun one to drive!

 

A quick glance at my 34 Master coupe frame makes me believe it’s very straight. I spent some time welding holes closed. I’ll weld on some bracing BEFORE media blasting and then box the frame later.

 

Very good Jay - your efforts and progress will do you proud. Have you thought about where you're headed with your front suspension? If you're going with the leaf spring over the axle, look into a front frame horn to weld on to your frame, once you cut out the front leaf spring mounts to clean up the front rails.

 

Thanks for the kind words, it is going thru this summer just as it is- the fenders and aprons need extensive metal repair and bodywork so I will be dealing that after the summer.
I just want to get it out on the road and deal with any gremlins that pop up for the summer, this car is a bucket list car for me and I'm going to enjoy it for now and finish up the cosmetic stuff this fall. Next spring she will be a head turner (I hope!)

 

Quick question for @brokedownbiker or @31chevymike
About how big are the door gaps(door-rocker-cowl-quarter)? The usual 3/16”?

 

Honestly, I do not know that answer. When I'm ready to install the doors on my coupe, then I will need that info as well. Someone will know - how about it @snoop74, what door gaps do you have on your '35? The gaps should be the same throughout the early years, no? Haven't heard from you in a while...

 

Thanks for the reply. If I find anything I’ll let you know.

 

My doors are just tossed on right now. I hadn’t worked the gaps yet.. I needed a break after grinding on this thing for the last year. I’ve just been driving it. My gaps will be a bit of work; doors were chopped crudely so I have to add metal to areas

 

Who can blame you! Honestly, about how many hot rods at the Round Up were early Chevys? What is your next show, and what are your plans to achieve further with your '35?

By the way, I'm dropping the mighty BEHEMOTH in my frame sometime tomorrow, a great way to celebrate Memorial Day, you think?

 

Man not many at all.. I only seen maybe 2 other chevys there and one was just basically stock. I went to a little event this weekend. I was having some break and overheating issues which I think I figured out. Next will be the doors, and just overall sheet metal work.. then get it in some paint hopefully.. some interior would be nice as well. But I’d like to get the sheet metal stuff taken care of first. Oh and I had a rear mail seal leak that I fixed in which I’m not sure if I spoke about it here.

 

I've got to say, I've never measured them. I just made them look even by eye. I'm away from the car until tomorrow, I'll post when I get home and measure them.

 

All bow before the awesome might of the Monstrous Hemi! Probably the ultimate open-engine hot rod powerplant, very cool @31chevymike- that will get that old Chevy down the road right quick!

 

Thanks for taking the time. I need to make sub rails, a/b pillars and all the structure for the body sheet metal. My wood was garbage so my gaps were as well.

 

Even more so with a BLOWER!

 

I’m welding frame holes closed. Any idea what the 5 holes on the driver side in the red circle were for? Passenger side doesn’t have the BIG hole. I’m thinking maybe it was related to steering.

 

Should be for steering box

 

Jay, you might as well fill in those holes anyway, as they were from original box. Have you decided on a steering box type yet? Your decision, but the GM Vega box (Cross Steering) is the way to go, more so to prevent the "death wobble" associated with these early I-beam/solid round tubular axles when setting up caster/camber angles. Your chassis book will explain everything to you.

 

I’ll go with the Vega steering box.
I attended a 1947-1955.1 Chevy truck gathering in Townsend, TN this weekend. Spotted this 1936 Chevy and talked to the owner.
My good friend now owns TWO 1934 Chevy trucks. A 1.5 ton and a recently purchased 1/2T. Both have the wood framing although less complex than these coupes and sedans.
Thought you might enjoy pics of the 1/2T.