See photo. I found several holes in the roof edge corner on my 34 ford pickup that were previously filled with body filler. How is the best way for a novice to repair? I have heard of using a metal backer plate and then weld holes or should I cut out the bad areas to repair with new patch panel or go back with fiber reinforced filler?
First I would remove the top from the sides and sandblast all the joints to see how bad the damage is. Not worth the work if you don’t do it right. If it turns out the holes don’t go further, then I’d cut about a quarter inch above and below the bead edges, and basically replace the center strip of the bead. Do it only where needed, and can also break that into segments a couple inches long to prevent getting the panel out of shape. Of course have the top bolted solid to be sides when welding.
If you was to try and weld them holes shut you'd be getting in deeper. As soon as you pull the trigger on the mig what's there would be gone making bigger holes. I would make a template from poster board like alchemy stated 1/4" above and beyond the holes. Cut it out of metal and lay it over tracing the edge of the patch. Then you have a good area to butt weld. Do use too much heat and alternate where you weld letting it cool or it will warp. Patience and lots of test fitting when yield a good end result. I spent 8 months of 2020 doing body work on my 65 Chevelle. Even built a rotisserie which helped doing the trunk pans and bracing that was gone. I even shaved the drip rails off. That was a lot of work.
I imagine it will have rust in the flange lip between body and roof. Unbolting the roof from the body would be the best start if you are confident enough? That section is not flat vertically in the swage so it’s more tricky to form. Simply folding and shrinking is a good start though. That metal will be too thin to simple weld the holes as it’s more than likely rusted from the inside, at least it’s only one layer.
I'd cut it at the top of the bead, above the holes, all the way around and then make another cut about 4 inches down and weld them back together.
I like Bandit Billy's idea to chop it if that is what your looking to do. Everyone is going to make suggestions but it's YOUR car and what you want to make it! I spent 3 years on the Chevelle forum asking these type's of questions. I went the way I did with the car because the money is coming out of my pocket not anyone else's.
Can you MiG weld sheetmetal? Your welder has gas, not a fluxcore, right? I think my solution is rather beginner friendly if you spend the time (doesn’t cost a thing) to do a precise fit-up.
I would also pull the top off like @alchemy and cut out a fill with new metal. Doing anything other then cutting out the rust or buying a new top is really just putting a bandage on it, Rust don’t rest. It crazy how much they want for the UP stuff and only time will tell how good it holds up (quality of steel). You stated you don’t have the skills or tools to fix the issue have you looked for another cab top or cab . I wish you were closer as I have this super solid 32 cab with no rust on the cab for sale
I can barely weld sheet metal. This year I bought a Hobart 125 with gas so I can learn. I have a brother that is a more experienced welder that did most of my patch panel after I cut and fit new metal. So I guess I am leaning towards removing the top…any tips or tricks to it? I see there are bolts that fasten back cab panel to roof but what fastens roof to sides of cab along top of door opening as well as across the front? I assume I need to add support braces on inside of cab before removing top?
You are in luck being a 34 as the A pillar has a screw through the outside front corner of the roof lip into the A pillar . If you blow up the picture of continentaljohn 32 cab you can see 32 were soldered on at that point , generally broken but you get the idea.
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