Ok, here we go. Car needs rockers. Never done a set, but was lucky enough to score a set of NOS from the mid 60s. Seem to fit really well. I know the metal thats in the car is trashed and needs to come out...Still, cutting a 4 foot section out of my car is giving me a the butterflies a bit. Also, knowing that the new rockers I have are probably the last set on earth doesn't help. I'll post a pick when it's done. Car is a '50 buick 2 door sedanette. Love this car, so it's gotta get the justice it's due and get back on the road. Sent me good vibes. Surgery is tomorrow. Quick question, what do you spray on the back to prevent rust? -J
Yes, like Jim said.......^^^^^^^^ You may also need to place some support under the floor before cutting a long section out. Maybe a long 4x4 lightly pushed up but not lifting. I'd also only cut out one side at a time and fix it before doing the other side.
I have inner rockers I bought just incase. Looking at it, I'll need to do one side, probably just do both.
Yes, I agree. One side at a time. I will have to support the floor, yes. One side for sure needs an inner rocker
I'll have to pop the spot welds off of all the body mounts to the inner rockers. I'm thinking of tacking a piece of square stock on the top of the floor, running the entire length of the floor, then supporting it by tacking another piece of square to the A pillar and B pillar so it doesn't sag. That sound like it will work?
No such thing as too much bracing, as long as you can reach what you need to cut and weld. Triangulate the braces for even more support.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finally-starting-on-the-wife’s-56.1135206/ installed a set of inner and outer tickets here. Nothing to it
Procedure help. Need to replace the back floor section. Need to replace inner rockers. If I cut out the floor and rockers the body mounts hang free. Here's what I'm thinking, tell me if I'm off base. Take square stock and brace the 4 body mounts together so they can't shift when I drill the spot welds. Drill all the spot welds, get the inner rocker out. Looking at the floor in 4 sections, Make and replace the rear 1/4 of the floor on this side. Slide in new inner rocker, spot weld it all together. I'm thinking by sectioning it all in 1/4's things shouldn't move around. If this the way?
You are probably already aware of it, but the main concern is keeping the shape of the door opening from changing any. Removing the door and its attendant weight and then putting an X brace between the A & B pillars should keep it from moving. I would tack the x brace together where it crosses. Just two tacks that can be easily removed and then rewelded on the other side of the car. Welding a flat brace on the floor should also help....it can't hurt. On the x brace, I think I would also add a longitudinal brace between the bottom legs as that's where most of the force to spread the opening will be. It doesn't have to be all the way at the bottom and be in the way, maybe just a little above the rocker so you can get to it to weld.
I will not say that my technique is the best but it did work. I X braced at the A pillar and B Pillars...looking at the pictures now a brace near the floor from the A and B Pillar may have been a wise move, I probably got lucky?? I replaced not only the rockers but the floor and the A Pillar support....with the door still mounted I was able to watch my gaps though. Just remembered....I ended up running a adjustable strap from the upper B Pillar to the lower A Pillar to pull the A Pillar into place.
Body mounted the the chassis. The chassis sitting with the weight on the suspension. car supported under springs. Align the doors as best as you can. A simple brace between the inner qtr to the cowl will keep the body square when the inner rocker is removed. I don’t brace anything if only replacing the outer. I only cross brace if large portions of the floor is removed or significant work for A, B and C pillars. The chassis, if sitting square and level is your best jig to hold the body. carefully discect each piece that you will need to fabricate. Use them to make patterns. Lots of info for that is in the link I posted. I’d leave the door on as much as possible checking fit and how it shuts as progress goes forward. These old cars can have crappy gaps. Note any poor gap issues. My 56 has typical tri5 gaps. I was able to get some a little better while replacing parts but not a lot.
I can't put the body on the chassis. There's a 4 door on the chassis I'm using for this car. Luckily I don't need to cut any floor out on the front 2/3 of the car. The bad floor is behind the rear quarter panels. Braced the floor to the A and B pillars really well before I cut the rocker. I think I'll cut the floor before removing the inner rocker, get that all fit and in, then tackle the rocker. I'll brace the body mounts as well.
I have fit the inner and outer. Weld the inner, tackle the floor then weld the outer last after all the weight is on the car naturally with bracing removed
It quickly became clear to follow your lead. I'm gunna get the 4 door off the chassis and mount the 2 door before going further. What started as some rockers is now gunna be inner and outer rocker and probably the floor. I'm this deep in, there no reason to not just do it all. Never made a floor before, but have made a trunk. The curves on the floor are really complex in the factory design. I think I'll make everything a bit more squared off when I replace it, which will be impossible to fit correctly unless I do at least the entire rear half.
Use poster board to make patterns. The poster board will tell you how to form the panels. The link I posted will show that you can tackle a difficult shape with common tools
The Jalopy Journal
