All, i am about to replace my carb with a new carb and am looking for ideas on an in-line fuel filter near the carb. I have one at the tank. Currently have a hard line from the pump up to the carb. What are the options, if another one is needed, for something that should be at the top of a early SBC in a 1941 Chevy. i don’t want a plastic inline one. VOH
Need to know fitting at this carb and fuel line size. Until then this works well for carbs with female 1/8” npt and 5/16” inverted fuel line. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...a/14111/automotive-van-1964-chevrolet-g10-van
I would get a repo AC glass bowl. I added one on my dual quads. The fittings are 1/8” pipe with 5/16” steel line. It hasn’t run out of fuel in 7 years and I’ve had it over 100 on early morning freeways many times.
So why do you want a second filter? I stay away from the plastic filters, since I consider them a a potential fire starter. Also - if you have them close to the engine, that may be asking for vapor lock, especially with todays gas. If you absolutely want one, look into "Filter King". They come with an pressure regulator (always nice to have), made out of metal and glass, look totally period (cause they are) and mount on the firewall, away from the engine. Frank
I just switched from my A/C glass bowl filter like the one that Jimmy six show. It worked great for 6yrs. then out of nowhere, started leaking at the bowl gasket. Almost had a huge fire. A GM filter that was used on models of 350hp 327"s and Corvette is the GF90 metal filter. Fits in-line very well.
If I don't need a second one, I would rather not see one. Everywhere I read, they say one between the pump and the carb.
so thats what i need... i want a filter thats thread in but not necessarily glass, and gf 90s are over 30 bucks now.
Thanks. I believe 55-57 Chevrolets used this style to feed their 2 and 4 barrel carbs. I don’t like Ecklers but bought it 10 years ago. Make sure to brace/support it. You can just see mine at the front of the manifold. It an aluminum strap.
No biggie. It depends on how you want it to look. On my 40 I ran a polished ss 3/8 tube straight up from the pump, installed a 3/8 wix metal (natural finish) filter, and continued on to the carb with the ss line. Looked halfway decent.
When I did the new fuel system on my Ol' Furd F100, I used stainless hard line and whereever needed, stainless braided PTFE flex lines. All AN fittings. I had a big inline filter leftover from another project that came from Fule Injection Enterprises. I uses a permanent stainless mesh filter element that works with any fuel, including methanol. It is inline between tank and "carb." Mounted to the inside of the frame rail. It can use a variety of different mesh counts. Pretty much bullet proof, can take line pressures well over 100psi (Made for mechanical injection), out of sight, and easily serviceable. Much like the AC filter shown above, except it uses AN fittings, and can be disassembled. Sealed with o-rings. You choose the o-ring material based on the fuel usage. But, to buy the complete unit, pretty dang pricey. I used it because I had it.
Clear filters are mighty handy diagnosing fuel quantity and quality problems before undertaking more serious investigation. Glass is probably way safer than plastic.. It would be interesting to have been there for dis-assembly and get a look at the gasket on the one that started leaking after 6 years. The OEM styles from the pre-1970 era usually have a nut and a springy bail to apply pressure to the glass and compress the gasket. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/images_product/normal/986640.jpg I think the springiness of the wire bail would continue to apply decent pressure even as the gasket compressed/creeped over time. Within limits of course, so a bi-annual filter change might help ensure the gasket was always compressed OK.
I'm not putting glass filters anywhere on my cars. Besides the possibility of something bouncing up off the road and breaking the glass, the rubber sealing rings eventually leak. Not much better than a plastic filter to me. I like the tin can types with threaded fittings myself.
Headlights are "sealed beam" so there are no gaskets to fail. Windshield gaskets? The leak is just a matter of when, not if. And as stated, neither will cause the car to burn down. My stuff has inline metal fuel injection style filters. They are designed to see a lot higher pressures then carb applications ever will see. I find it interesting that people are concerned about plastic and glass filters failing, but then complain about a $30 metal filter leaking after 6 years. How many gallons of gas has them metal filter cleaned in 6 years? If your concerned, change it every 5 years. It would still be cheaper then replacing the plastic filters every year. The metal in line fuel injection filter on my coupe was there 10 years. I change it when the hoses connected to it started looking not so good ( there were not leaking). As it turned out, I could have just changed the hoses, but changed the filter anyway. Once I divided out the cost of the filter over 10 years of use, it was pretty cheap to replace it.
Something i ran into. I was running those typical metal inline filters from NAPA or any parts store, along the frame cause i didn't want to see it. It worked ok, but every once in a while i had a vapor lock problem, not alot, just out of nowhere maybe once every 2 months. I fought and fought trying to solve it. I thought about seeing the clear filters going to the carb always seem to have an air bubble in em even when running. So i put tge filter between the pump and carb and haven't had the trouble for years. My guess as why it works on newer cars os cause of tge electric pump in the tank pressurizing the filter. Where as a mechanical pump is SUCKING threw it.
Yeah, I'll never have a glass filter on a car again. I got a carb from a guy and it had one of these Mr gasket style in the fuel line. It was in good shape so I ran it. After putting about 5,000 km on the truck, we were leaving a hotel for an 8 hour drive home one morning, and I wanted to check something under the hood. The filter had come apart and was spewing fuel everywhere. Could have lost the truck, had I not caught it right then. Now I run metal filters. I don't need to see fuel that badly. I looked up those GF90 filters, the black ones like you show are $90 in Canada, plus shipping. Hell if I'm paying that much for a filter. I'll stick with my $12 metal Wix. Less traditional, but not $90 either.
The point that you may have missed is... glass is used in a number of places on a car, and it manages to survive most scenarios. But it sounds like your ONLY concern is fire, not crashing because you can't see the road, or broken glass to the face (or ten million other failure modes the other 30,000 parts on a car might experience). Just glass, and just fire. Makes one wonder why automotive engineers specified glass fuel filters for decades (until the switch to plastic to save $$ , then the switch to metal to deal with high fuel pressure systems). Or... perhaps a properly installed and maintained glass fuel bowl cracking and "burn[ing] your car down !" is an extraordinary corner case that may not merit so much fear. My 56 year old daily driver uses the factory original glass fuel filter AND the factory original glass carburetor float bowl cover. It sounds like I'll have to park it.
Your question was "What are you doing about headlights and windshields?" Nothing about the use of glass in the automotive world. I don't live in the 50s or 60s, I live in the current world. There are better products to use then glass with rubber gaskets in fuel systems these days. I have a glass bowl off of an old fuel pump on my shelf. The reality is, maybe I could drive my car over it and never damage it, it is a really thick dome shaped piece of glass. That said, its still on my shelf and would never show up in my fuel system, I've seen the rubber gaskets fail way too often. Feel free to live however you want, and I will do the same.
That is not an AC which was standard equipment on millions cars and trucks. There is no way to attach steel line like an original AC. I have glass filter fuel pumps on 2 of my cars, none have ever leaked. They get serviced once a year which includes cleaning the screens and inspecting the gasket.
Yep, I had 3 near misses with the glass bowl. Funny thing, I have one on my '54 235" and have never had a leaking issue. Also, had one for 10yrs. on a 425hp 409" and no issues. I know the GF90 are really pricey, but I had a leftover one on the shelf so put it to use. It was only $40 then, but still too much. I , too, am a big fan of all metal lines and no rubber/clamps past the fuel pump. Bob
They may have been used for years, but its still a design with unnecessary possibility for failure. Cars vibrate, and it's the design of glass and metal separated by a rubber gasket that can produce unnecessary leaks that is problematic. Regardless of the specific filter design, they're a possible source of failure and I won't have one on my rides. Been there, no thanks. I investigate materials failures, fires, etc. So unfortunately I know first hand how much QC goes (doesn't) into items like the rubber gasket you're relying on these days.
I found a K&N of similar design that's made for 90's GM stuff. Maybe I'll try one of those. Similar design and only $22. I also saw that the unpainted gf90 filters are much cheaper. If it says corvette, the price goes up!
I'm using either a Moroso or Mr Gasket metal one on my Ford, between the pump and carburetor. I replace the hoses when it gets changed. If I have the space, I have a couple of old Holley canister filters that take an old Ford fuel pump element. I like to keep those parallel as possible.
Glass bowl fuel filters were used for three-fourths of a CENTURY on tractors (you know, those vehicles that ALWAYS run on smooth roads, and have steel boiler-plate surrounding the filter ). Ran them for years when growing up on the farm. Used them for decades on my automobiles. Did have to occasionally change the CORK filter gasket on the tractors, which could break when the bowl was removed for cleaning. Don't have to be a genius to see that a gasket that came out in three pieces needed replacing. Started working on gasoline engines about 1955. In that time, have seen three engine fires on my own vehicles. All three were from leaky Holley 4150's on new vehicles with less than 9000 miles. The gaskets on the end bowls leaked. So which is more dangerous? As to thread, most seem to be 1/8 inch female pipe; but A.C. made at least one design that was 1/4 inch pipe. Jon
Doesn't take a genius to. spot leaky carburetor gaskets on any carburetor when normally maintaining your vehicle .
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