Hello, Rodders I need a hand setting up my magnesium Halibrand 101 quick change in my 30 AV8. I’ve already put together the whole rear end with the proper preload and backlash, etc. with original 30 Model A bells and diff. I had to switch the radius arms side to side and upside down to fit the torque tube, which also needed to be flipped due to where the input shaft is at the bottom of the diff on the QC. After getting everything together I got it mated up to the transmission, but when I went to slip the rear spring shackles on I couldn’t due to the mismatched angle between the diff and spring. The whole rear end now points up at a sharper incline than before. I also am getting some interference between the cross member and the radius arms since they attach at the top of the torque tube, now. Does anyone have any experience with 101s and stock Model A frames? Here’s a couple pics that may help.
I've heard of switching the radius rods but I assumed they stayed on the bottom. I just put a Halibrand in my roadster but I used 32 radius rods and welded mounting brackets on the bells to keep them inside the frame so they didn't hit the frame. I also mounted the spring to the rear with the shackles loose until the spring was mounted in the frame. Made getting it all line up much easier. Using a reverse eye spring also helps.
Thanks for the pic of your setup. Any more from underneath? I have the spring installed in the car, already, with a spring spreader stretching out the ends to the proper width. I’ve changed springs and moved the rear end multiple times, and never had the issue I’m having now.
Not sure if this might address your problem. I purchased a set of these but haven't had a chance to use them yet to see how they work. I hope this helps. Brian https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...que-tube-or-open-drive.1067213/#post-12843099
I think I may need to adjust the angle on the perch mounts, like those nifty bolt on ones. Mine are original Model A, so they’re already part of the bells, but I may be able to cut and weld them. Good idea.
I have seen in photos from the past, the bones mounted to the sides of the torque tube. With studs, bolts or nuts welded to the tube, or just the bones welded to the tube.
a littile difficult to see in your 2nd picture but if your speedo drive is on the top, is that going to be a problem with the cable coming off the drivers side. Also, any crossmember problems with it on top? Just check it out.
On my RPU I also used a T 5 out of a S10 4X4 and kept the torque tube, I had to flip the arms attach to bottom (not the top)and notch the crossmember a little. My pinion angle wasn't bad possibility because I used a T rear spring.
Here's more photos. You can see I needed a new front mount as the 32 rods are shorter. Any radius rod can be modified to work.
I do have to reroute the cable, but that’s not a problem. I am having interference issues with the crossmember as noted. Some are saying they were able to mount the bones underneath the TT, but the way mine went together after flipping the radius arms I had to also rotate my TT to have everything slip together nicely. May have to notch the crossmember.
62pan, Thank you so much for the pics. That’s a big help. You even kept the mechanical brakes, like me!
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