Gathering up some parts and info. to possibly put a couple sbc's together and have some questions: connecting rods- I know it probably doesn't make sense budget wise but am thinking of having some rods reconditioned - wondering about the order the steps should be taken 1) replace bolts 2) resize 3) balance Is that correct? Cylinder heads- Is there any real reason to CC street heads other than to know exactly what size the chamber are? How much clearance should be between a valve stem and a press in valve guide (probably has to do with the actual material of the press in guide??) When checking the head surface for straightness, is any amount of gap between the surface and straight edge acceptable? Will the 14014416 305 heads work on a '67 283 (need the accessory bolt holes) Pistons- Where is the safest, easiest place to remove material from pistons when balancing? I know I will think or more, but this should get me started...Thanks
Sounds like...but to be sure, since you didn't mention this...but... Are you planning on doing all this work yourself ? Or is a shop of some sort going to be doing it ? Most of these questions...any reasonably decent shop will know the answers to. Mike
Much of what you're considering shouldn't be done at home, unless you've had all the machine tools, and equipment needed to size rods, mill and bore the rod journals, mill heads, weigh and balance all the components, etc. I think it's fun, and I love assembling my own engines, but I give the block, and all rotating assemblies to a machine shop to check out, and rework as needed. I tell them what I want, and what my goals are for the engine, and we discuss what they'll do. Same for the heads. I'm fine assembling them, but I want a shop to check for cracks, surface if needed, and do all the valves, seats, guides, spring pressure tests, etc. I don't own the equipment to do all this, and wont buy it for an occasional engine build. I know when to spend my money for others to do what I'm not set up to do.
I have the equipment to install guides to reface valves and seats to weigh rods and pistons would have to send out the rods to be resized I have a pretty well equipped shop, have never had any real formal (or informal) training in the aspects I am inquiring about. Thanks-
On my engine builds if it is just a stock motor I use the stock rod bolts,,,But on performance builds I always use ARP rod bolts....
First I'd ruff balance the rods end for end. Some rods, even a set from an original engine, need a LOT of material removed to equalize, including grinding the fat rod's I-beam. If you have several sets swapping rods between sets can ease the balancing chore. I'd wet fluorescent magnaflux the rods next right off, preferably with the bolts out . I'd have some small carbide burrs ready to dress/blend the broached notches for the bolt heads because there are going to be "indications" there.
What ever is in your pile of parts is 40 to 60 years old. New ARP rod bolts are a must, have a professional shop recondition them, balance the entire assembly, 416 heads are ok , but they're old and crack prone, get them magnafluxed, period. With a 1.840" int. they're better than stock 283. Do what BB427 said. You need to match your engine build to today's gas, that means professional advice on camshaft, piston, bore and cylinder head type, paying attention to cylinder quench and dynamic compression, find a reputable machine shop, do what they tell you. It is not a cheap project, with your own equipment you may help the bottom line, good luck.
I was quoted $185 to redo my 350 rods, a new set of Scat rods was the answer and they had the ARP hardware in them. The entry-level rods should suit you fine.
Rods are probably the most stressed part in the engine. Putting old used rods with millions of cycles on them in a new engine just gives me the willies. The difference between buying new ARP bolts and having the rods resized and magnafluxed can't be much more than $100. I just bought a set of scat rods for less than $300. Arp bolts already installed. They needed no massaging for balance. Consider it cheap insurance and peace of mind.
I agree about the rods and bolts. I did a quick search on Summit, I saw and Eagle rod for 296 and a Scat H beam for 399, both with ARP bolts. Not to start a connecting rod debate, those were the first two that showed up in the search, to illustrate the cost/value of new rods and bolts.
Good to see you posting @Dan ! I also have a 283 I am putting 305 heads on for the same reasons. Gotta see what my heads are, the rest of the engine looks freshly machined
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