Technical disc brake swap issue..still got a soft pedal

!!! DAMN !!!​

 

Dead thread.........
The OP didn't even have the courtesy to reply since Jan 6 2020.
He's probably figured out it was a self induced cluster***k and went away with his tail between his legs.

This is why I am now cautious about helping on brake threads

 

Roger that... every thread with a similar situation end with I found the problem without stating the problem or the guy going ghost, I read through pages on pages attempting the suggestions, I will post my solution (hopefully once found) the purpose of these forums is to help others not just yourself... that is my intent

 

I... like others have spent money on these kits to increase the safety of vehicles... and because we are doing our own builds (rather it be more cost efficient or because we want to do our own builds... it just something about saying I did that) anywho these kits are advertised as diy or straight bolt ups...and they should be, I will get to the source of the issue (hopefully with a little help) and I will not leave others in the dark! I didn't come this far ... just to come this far. More to follow...

 

The Wilwood kit I bought included instructions on how to center the calipers before pads were installed. The centering washers were included as were wheel spacers if needed.
I’m not saying that stock part from various cars will not work properly; but engineered kits with proper MC’s for power and non-power, prop valves, pedal ratio, and even rear wheel cylinder diameter if using drums are all part of an efficient safe brake system.

 

I think some brake kits are more equal than others (pun very much intended!).

Chris

 

I think of the guys on here who, for one reason or another, don't like to post and try to figure out there troubles by reading these posts.

My favorite disc caliper is the D-52 rebuilds that N.A.P.A. sells. The machine work is amazing on them. The seals are always sitting perfect when I take them apart to clean, lube and check them out before putting them to work.

I once got 60,000 miles out of a pair of them on a big 64 Bonneville that had the Scarebird brackets.

Just recently, I had the front end up and gave both front wheels a spin and they both spined very eaisly with out any grabbing or dragging like most disc brake systems have.

Having a car that works against itself is one thing that bugs the living shit out of me.

N.A.P.A. used to sell some of the best disc brake pads I ever used. They were rivited and looked like the old Greyrock shoes. They had the perfect amount of metallic that stopped nice and straight without all the squeaky noise of some pads.

In my area the brake pedal is as important as the gas pedal.

 

Well believe it or not

The issue was the brake booster

After swapping an other and different disc brake kit and i was still having the same issue.

Also swapped multiple master cylinder with different bore size

And without counting the infinite number of time i bled the brakes using every tevhnic you cant imagine.

Different ratio pedal as well

The only thingh left untouched ,or swapped out , was the brake booster

I got a good one from summit
One that look the same
I installed it with the extact same adjustment at the pin/rod that goes behind the master cylinder

And it works --- right away---

Myth buster i know

Yes i confirm --the booster ---was giving me a low spongy pedal and not good breaking

I still have the booster and will keep it for ever
I think that booster is somewhat an unicorn

A lot of guy here were really nice helping

But some were not pleasant this is why i never went back on here.

 

Did the camber issue get resolved? It's been a long time! We've had a virus come and go ( or not go?) since this all started, it's been that long.

Frustration manifests itself in many ways!

Chris

 

Well I swapped / installed an other brake kit
And that kit fixed the camber
But not the brakes issues

I post a picture of the kit
I think for the price they really good
Bigger caliper and rotors.
And more simple as well.

 

from first post,

from today,

Only thing that changes with engine on, is vacuum to booster.
I am sure that this thread will help others.

@Vincentnova - thanks for returning to your thread and posting the outcome.
Regarding the negative comments - if you don’t come back to answer any posts, you are effectively wasting peoples time who are trying to help, so understandably, they get frustrated………

 

I had the same issue with my kit. Bypass the valve and see if you have a good pedal. My system never work with a valve in it. And it does not lock up without it. If the pressure is not correct the valve won't work. They just throw a bunch of parts together and call it a kit.

 

Well I’ll be damned! Absolutely none of the information we were given actually indicates a booster problem of any sort. So either the way boosters/brakes work has been incorrect forever or we weren’t given accurate information.

 

I went with NO booster on my car, it would have chewed up valuable real estate. Plus I may have had a vacuum issue with the cam. It stops like a mid-'70's Chevelle with manual power disc brakes.

 

There is something not quite right here. If the booster fails, it basically becomes a solid push rod. If the rest of the system is working correctly, there is no way the booster can cause the pedal to go to the floor. Just a really heavy pedal.
I am glad the problem has gone away; sometime good luck happens. I can't help thinking about the pile of parts purchased, now hidden in the corner that did not cure the problem.
Garpo