I'm looking for suggestions on good quality power steering hose fittings. By good quality I mean fittings that can be tightened without the hose wanting or needing to rotate. The 90-degree fittings I have are on hoses from CPP (Classic Performance Products) and the 90-degree bends before the fittings tend to rotate around the fitting when the fitting is tightened (so much so that it's impossible to get the fittings leak-free tight with the bend being in the correct location). Holding the bend in position while tightening the fitting just doesn't work. Either the fitting is not tight enough or the bend rotates (or both). It's a constant compromise. There has to be better fittings than what I have.
do you have room to move the hose around the other way, so that as you tighten the fitting, it will end up where it needs to be? Start with the fitting turned counterclockwise about 1/8 turn from it's final position.
I adapt all of my power steering ports to JIC fittings with steel adapters, and then use hydraulic hoses. I can hold the hose/fitting with one hand, and tighten the nut with the other, in whatever clocking I want.
I always just held the hose in one place with one hand and tightened the fitting with the other hand, often as not using a crowfoot with a ratchet and extension rather than an end wrench. I did a lot of work on power steering for several years in the 70's and never had much of an issue with it. I did have to hold the hoses though.
Go try out your local hydraulic hose shop. You’re gonna be surprised on what they do for reasonable cost. My guys Tri-valley hose are awesome to work with. https://www.trivalleyhose.com/
Parker 43-series crimped couplings and hydraulic hoses ftw! https://ph.parker.com/us/en/43-series-fittings/12843-6-6
I've also tried that as well as I could Jim but neglected to say that as is often the case, the area around my steering box is very cramped and confined. One hose and fitting also limits the other as does my inner fender.
Thanks Gimpys. This sounds like what I'm looking for. We have a local hydraulic fitting / hose shop so I'll just take the pieces I have to them to make sure I get the correct JIC fittings.
Yes, this is part of the problem with mine. I have to use a 20" extension on my ratchet with a crow foot and both hands to tighten the fitting. I place the rubber handle of a ball peen hammer between the 90-degree fitting and anything rigid to prevent the fitting from turning. But, the fitting still rotates.
Thanks Doug. That's the same business I used for my hose to pump and steering box adapter pieces. Helpful people and a good business.
Yep. This was / is my plan. I just wanted to hear what fittings others have used that works well to eliminate the problem I'm having then visit our local shop to get the pieces I need.
I've recently used some basic PTFE fittings for the PS lines in my Olds but I would love to use an standard, crimped rubber hose in lieu of the steel braided ones. So far so good on my install, and I haven't had any trouble with them so far, but they were sort of a pain in the ass to put together and I still feel like the assembled connection with the ferrule is less positive than a strong, crimped connection. Not to mention it's easier to clock them in the right position with the crimped fitting. Not to highjack this thread, but with so many inexpensive hydraulic crimping tools on Amazon and the like, has anyone had any luck with any of these tools for PS lines? I see them for AC lines, and they run about $200, but not sure if anyone has used them for smaller PS or hydraulic lines. For under $300, it's well worth it to just buy the tool and do it myself.
see how far out of the loop I am? I haven't put power steering on anything for 20 years, and at that time the new hoses from the parts store worked just fine.
.....short of daily driver type cars, this is a "first" for me Jim, hence the questions. I switched from a manual set-up to power because this steering box was on the market and (mainly) had the ratio I wanted. It also came with an adapter for my frame and a pitman arm specifically to fit my pickup. Now if I can find a 90-degree fitting that is designed as an actual swivel joint (free to be moved after the fitting has been tightened) I'll be good to go.
O ring boss is a straight thread that is indexable. Like others have said go with quality steel fittings to JIC and then have hoses made. I’ve never used a manual crimping tool for hydraulic hoses (have a electric/hydraulic crimper at work), but we do have a manual crimper for water hoses that are rated up to 3000 psi (1/2”-1”). Big thing if you’re going to crimp your own hoses is that the tool (dies), hose and fittings need to be the same brand and make sure the hose is rated high enough to use (some are more flexible than others). I used these on my old '54 Ford panel because I needed something short (I cut them and had them welded). The non JIC fitting is the return line.
Thanks much. This looks like what I'm after for both my HP (input) and return lines on the steering box. QUOTE="1oldtimer, post: 14608544, member: 1567"]O ring boss is a straight thread that is indexable. Like others have said go with quality steel fittings to JIC and then have hoses made. I’ve never used a manual crimping tool for hydraulic hoses (have a electric/hydraulic crimper at work), but we do have a manual crimper for water hoses that are rated up to 3000 psi (1/2”-1”). Big thing if you’re going to crimp your own hoses is that the tool (dies), hose and fittings need to be the same brand and make sure the hose is rated high enough to use (some are more flexible than others). I used these on my old '54 Ford panel because I needed something short (I cut them and had them welded). The non JIC fitting is the return line. View attachment 5508828 [/QUOTE]
I removed the input (pressure) and return lines from the steering box this morning and also found that the inverted cone inserts that drop into the steering box ports have a "smile" on one side of the cone which of course means that the adapter fittings are only making contact on one side of the cone (and therefore not sealing completely). I'm aware that this is often a problem. I could spend time with a depth micrometer to make sure the new inserts are square to the hole before adding new inserts but am curious if there are inserts with a shoulder or base that are more prone to being square with the bore.
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