Technical Can I convert a 46 banjo to slip on drums? Help

Ok I’ve searched a lot and I just keep getting confused and not finding an answer so I could use some help/opinions/suggestions on my plan.
I have a 46 Ford truck open drive banjo with drums that measure 12.125” and one hub has a broken stud. The hubs are inside the drum despite searches that suggest 46 should be outside (hence part of my confusion).

Since I have to replace the drums, meaning I have to remove the swedged studs, I started researching if I could just convert them to knurled studs and slip over drums to make future maintenance easier. I found Speedway has all the parts (hubs with studs/drums/etc) to do it for $700ish so it definitely seems doable. Additionally, I also have another set of usable drums mounted to front hubs (again inside).

So my thoughts are, can I use the hole saw method to remove the swedge on all four drums, press the studs out of all the drums and rear hubs, press in new knurled studs in the rear hubs (assuming I can get correct size) and then use the old front drums as slip on drums for the rear (boring out the stud holes if necessary).

Does this sound feasible or would I be ahead just biting the bullet and going the Speedway route? Please feel free to point out any flaws in my plan and thanks!

 

If you have inside hubs, do the studs like I did. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...t-question-new-studs-in-40-ford-hubs.1128114/

Then if your original outside drums don’t fit right or are worn, get the good new ones from Boling Brothers.

 

Alchemy that’s exactly what I needed, thank you for the link! That one never came up in my searches. However, it is pretty much spot on with what I was planning. I even planned to grind a flat in to my studs too. The specs/details/part#’s in your thread are exactly what I needed, thanks again, I’m feeling much more confident about this now!

 

Good info...

 

good stuff... buddy put a 9" pig into a later banjo housing... i will keep you guys posted as soon as he is on the road!

 

I put hydraulics on the 37 rear axle under my 32 Tudor.
I used stock backing plates, outside mount rear hubs and some NORS outside drums off E-bay. I don’t have the stud numbers handy, but went through a Dorman catalog and stud bin at my local parts store until I found the needed serrated shoulder diameter and height, and the correct length.
The old stud holes in the hub had to be enlarged only slightly for the new stud press in.
The catalog gives the the hole size needed for the serrated shoulder.

 

I did front and rear on my '47 when I went to Lincoln brakes. Just find the studs you want that are close and ream the hubs to fit and then ream the drums. I ended up buying 2 reamers and using my drill press.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-lug-stud-new-drums.278605/

 

I converted to 9" axles, got totally rid of the weak tapered axles. I shorted the tubes so cut the ends of the axles off to machine them to accept the 9" seals and welded them back on. Got a bearing adapting kit. Machined the differential housing to accept thebosses on the 9" side gears. ground off the tips of the 9" side gears. Works great.

 

HotRodWorks.com can fix you up.

 

X2, quality parts and all figured out for you.

 

This. I love the 9" axle route, but using old Ford parts, you'll need '40 rear hubs and then Boling Bros. replacements. '46 hub mounts on the outside of the drum and will not permit "slip on" type drums.

Get the Dorman studs from Rock Auto. Much cheaper than anywhere else.

I have the part numbers for the studs somewhere. When I find it, I'll post. I think you need to ream the hole to .10 larger. I used a hand reamer and keep checking. Took about an hour to get them right.

 

I did the same as @willys36 on my roadster’s Halibrand QC, way back in the mid 1980’s!
Only difference was that I welded the late model 9” bearing cups on to the early Ford housings.
Used two 28 spline short side axles and gears.
Been on the road since 1987, with no problems.

 

Did you do this? Adapts modern backing plates with the new bearings.

 

That’s it.
Used the short side 28:spline axle and mocked up with the bearing and cup to get the overall length needed.
Then used the axle, axle gear and modified ring gear and carrier with bearing all assembled and clamped together as a jig, then tacked and welded it up.

 

I put a link to this video in my build thread but I thought I’d drop it here too in case any one stumbles on this thread in the future… but here’s how I converted my 46 banjo to slip over drum brakes;