Anybody have any tips on removing a rear end crossmember on a 35-40 chassis? Mine had already had rivets cut out and holes drilled for mounting. A shop had it out or butchered it in place and welded it crooked so spring won’t sit right, and wheel is not centered in the arch. I’ve adjusted the p&j ladder bar clevis ends and have the rear centered and it’s sitting where I want it, but I have to remove that pain in the a$$ crossmember to cut and reposition correctly. One of the big oval shaped chunks of metal has been removed off the frame to maybe move the crossmember back on that side but tank is going to be in the way. Never done this before and hoped someone with some experience can shed some light on it. Thanks so much, Eric.
Looks like you are trying to do this with the body on, axle in, and gas tank in? You are a glutton for punishment. I wouldn’t even attempt it unless totally stripped down. Then just cut the junk one out, and slide a good one in. Measure twice and weld it up.
I agree with this but would also weld in a couple tempoary pieces of angle iron across the frame rails before removing the x-member.
That’s just to show the crookedness of it I have the rear down. Was hoping maybe the frame was bigger on one end but haven’t measured yet did t think of it till I was at work. I can cut this one I think to get it out and maybe trim the ears to let me go at an angle to install it not sure if that possible. Opened up a freaking can of worms like always. I’m trying to avoid buying a parallel leaf kit since all that’s throwing a monkey wrench in the works is this crossmember. If I could have just lived with the clevis ends almost falling out and the rearend crooked I’d been set lol. Thanks for the replies.
The rails are parallel back there. I bet if you still have the old rivet holes visible in your rails, you could almost slide (hammer) a good crossmember in there and bolt it tight before laying a few weld beads on it.
Usually when the rivet's are knocked out they get replaced by bolts. Your telling us it wasn't, but it was moved... and then welded into place. And to make matters worse, crooked. You also mention, the wheel isn't centered in the arch. Well... you need to stop what your doing and take a moment to figure out what's what. You shouldn't have a tank that's in the way, unless it's because your trying to remove that cross member. And those holes should have been your aid to crossmember realignment.
And if you're trying to remove a welded in crossmember, you're in for a real treat. Best to saw out the old one with a plan to replace it, or if rebuilding cut close to the frame rail edge, less material to rebuild and easier to grind clean what's welded in place.
I meant cross member, used wrong abbreviation. You can see my cross member laying on ground below the left frame rail in the picture.
It’s not welded in it had the rivets taken out, holes drilled for bolts and was bolted in after the shop it was at flattened it to lower the car. They cut and welded it crooked and I’m trying to get it out of the frame. I’ve tried knocking it forward backward and cockeyed but I can’t get it out. I’ve seen stock crossmembers out and for sale so I know they gotta come out some freaking how besides splitting the frame in half. Just hoped there’s a way to do it with the body still on. I can pull gas tank if that would work but if the rails are parallel then do t see what good that’s gonna do. Maybe I’m just so in love with this project I can’t think straight.
Worst case, you could always cut it in 2 pieces, but nice square sawz-all cut. Then you can remove each piece separate. Correct the issue they created, then re-install crossmember in the same manner. Fit it up, and weld back together. If you plan and make the cut so that you can access it later for re-weld, it might not be too bad. Cut doesn't need to be in middle, just in a place easy to access for welding.
If I can get up in there to cut it I’ll just do that and round off the corner on one end and round the corner on the opposite side of the crossmember so I can hopefully get it in by going cockeyed. Not sure if that will work either thanks everyone for the replies. If you hear someone yelling it’s probably just me no matter what state your in.
Just about decided to order the weedetr kit and cut all this crap out and start over. Damn I love cars.
I might be easier to cut a "window" in the floor from inside to get to the crooked welded area, saws-all it, straighten things, weld it back ttogether straight, then weld up the "window" or bolt a plate over it.
Given your skill level,and health wouldnt the bolt in parallel spring kit be the easy way out? You have a late model rear axle so its not like your wedded to the idea of early Ford drive line. It would likely ride nicer when you were done too. If you take it to someone no doubt he will pull the body so he can work standing up,and your going to pay for all that time. Some times perfect is the enemy of good enough.
I’m trying to follow. Bare with me. If both sides of the cross member are in the proper place? But the flattening to it was put in skewed, is that causing your issue?
I'd start with removing the gas tank, once removed better access to the area, along with better visual to assess what you're up against.
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