Projects Sbc headers with stock steering box

Just wondering about headers again. Looking at truck shorty headers that have the collectors swept back, anyone tried these to avoid the steering box on a 41 or similar? I'd like to keep the stock box as it's tight and works great still.
I have been told on here about the passenger side ram horn on the driver's side trick, but I would much rather have headers. Especially now, I'm picking up an honest to goodness 350 4 bolt .030 over short block with forged Pistons Saturday, and one of our friends on here gave me a set of 998 heads last night (thanks again sir!) and they're heading to the machine shop tomorrow. The 305 I got earlier won't work, after tear down it's obviously totally clapped out and I see no reason to waste money on it when I can get a much better engine for a screaming deal like I am. So I need it to breathe, and therefore would like headers instead of manifolds.
Heres a pic of the truck headers I'm speaking of. Any input? Or what else can I use that will clear?
Thanks again.

 

I agree with Mark.

 

Me Too.

 

Ram's horns for me from now on. If I never change another blown header or collector gasket it will be too soon.

 

It seems like the radius of header tubes would flow better? I'm no expert either by any means, just stabbing in the dark. I do know I've used full length headers in the past and they definitely made a difference, but I've never tried shorties.

 

Those headers will not work with a stock steering box.

 

Starting to look like ram horns or nuthin' eh? I know I've seen headers on these cars, but don't know what their steering was set up like.

 

I think as I get older , I like the looks of the Corvette rams horns more the headers. Just feel old school to me I suppose. I have a NOS set of headers for my Chevy 250 six with the stickers still on them but a split manifold is starting to call my name.

 

Look at Sanderson CC3 I think dr side outlet sweeps forward. Used both on many 40's There are rams horns that do the same.

 

I avoid headers for the street, too many problems for me! I have ram horns on my car and painted them with POR15 exhaust paint and it has held up. The joker that did my exhaust did a real bad job on the pipes off the manifolds, I have to get that fixed. Cast iron manifolds are a good heat sink, they are quieter and you never have to mess with them.

Does anyone make SBC manifolds like the rear-exit 292 Ford ones? Those could solve a lot of problems. Rear-exit Camaro pieces are pretty good too.

 

Hmmmm, I've got headers on 2 cars and have never had the gaskets fail or burned spark plug wires. I must be doing something wrong.

 

SBC in my 47 with shorty headers; on the drivers side the headers sweep forward to miss the steering box (power). They were on the car when I bought it, I don't know the manufacturer. I think they flow better than cast rams horn manjfolds, and are certainly lighter.

 

I run rams horns on two of my cars. It really. is an install and forget. Cheap off the shelf headers can usually be problematic, but quality custom made headers are expensive and worth it if it's in the budget. My 3W has a set of custom full length headers that were installed in '82 and never a problem.

 

I would not worry about making a choice of headers right away. I'd search on line for examples of a 40 and up car that has a Chevy V8 in it, and go to some rod runs in the hope of finding some already converted.
See what they have done. Lots of times an engine can be offset to the passenger side slightly to gain clearance. Sometimes the engine can be mounted a little higher. The interference between exhausts and steering has always been a source of frustration for rod builders. Get the engine or use the old stripped 305 as a dummy and temporarily mount it in place so you can see if what you bought will work or can be made to work. Its possible if you look at headers for a very tight fit like a Corvette or Camaro, they MIGHT also clear your 41.
There have been a lot of these cars converted over the years, so it should be very doable.

 

So I wonder if I bought a set of reproduction ram horns for say a 70 Chevy pickup, to run the pass side on the driver's, should I just run the driver's on the pass side and have them both point forward? This will eliminate having to scrounge and or buy two sets. A good exhaust guy should have no problem, I mean if he can do one side why not both?

 

Here's what I used on my SBC swap into my '39 Chev coupe.




They tuck neatly into the corner and only require a small amount of inner fender to be trimmed away to get clearance. They are well away from spark plug wires also, and changing plugs is a dream! Just a socket on a ratchet to get right on the plugs.
These are referred to as "fat fender Chevy" headers, and they have multiple uses for a lot of SBC swaps into older cars. Speedway carries them under the Patriot brand, but I found these polished stainless versions with thicker 3/8" thick flanges on Fleabay for less than half of Speedway's price for uncoated versions.

 

In engine swapping, every solution to a problem usually produces another problem that needs solving. Find examples of swaps that have already been done before you spend your money. Thats the best way to procede. None of us can tell you whats going to work unless we have done the same exact swap previously. It doesn't matter what works in any other car...........you have to find someone with the same vehicle you have.

 

It's always a pain in the balls to route exhaust in any pre 48 hot rod. Next time I'm just running zoomies.

 

I used CC-4 Sanderson Headers, on my '46 Ford Wagon to clear the Saginaw power steering box. "Olscrounger" used CC-3 on his '40 so they might work also. Both will exit forward on the drivers side.

 

I just read the CE instructions for their 1941-1948 engine mounts and they recommend using a 1967-1969 Chevrolet pick up, drivers side, exhaust manifold to clear the steering box. Might be tough to find.

 

I had late 50's early 60's rams horns on my '48 with zero fitment problems. Well, I did have to bend one of the column shift arms a hair but zero actual problems...



Also, a tri-five Chevy radiator fits great with a couple bent up pieces of sheetmetal.

I added a 8BA Holley arm to the passenger side of a Carter AFB linkage and didn't even have to change the throttle pedal.



It's like the '41-'48 Ford was designed to have a SBC in it!

 

If they're talking about the one with the curved outlet, I still see them quite often at swap meets.

 

You have a photo of your radiator set up? Are you able to run a mechanical fan

 

I only use mechanical fans on my cars.

Short water pump.

I thought I had better pictures... I will have to keep looking...





Modified an original battery tray (or at least the one that was in the car) to work too once you add some length to the legs to clear the passenger side manifold.

 

Speedway fenderwell headers?

 

This is great! I was wondering about how to use the stock throttle arm. I'll be running a Edelbrock which is pretty much the same as the afb. Awesome thank you! Hey what trans are you running?

 

It was the old flathead column shift 3 speed hooked up with a Offenhauser a-dap-tor kit. It was not the original for my car, originally from a '41 Ford, but for all purposes the same as the '48.

The Edelbrock and the over the counter AFB are damn near identical, just a rebadge job. Some of the factory installed units have some variations. On mine the arm unbolted from the shaft so it seemed like an easy fix.

Good luck on your car!

 

Thank you all for the input. The scrapper brought me an 8.8 explorer axle today to my work, complete with good discs and calipers. Hell the pads are even still good! Only bummer is it's a 4.10 gear....won't work with a th350 on the freeway. But- beggars can't be choosers and it was a good trade for a radiator and a spare 3 speed. So looks like I will be learning how to setup a rear end now, which is actually cool since I've never done it before. I'm going with 3.55 gears. I know I know, use an overdrive trans...but everything I see says a 700r4 takes a bunch of x member work (I'm not taking the body off the frame) and a th2004r is like hens teeth. I don't see one anywhere. So 3.55 gears and a 3 speed should be fine I'm thinking.

 

There are reproduction ones I can get.