Ok let's go with that! All I need is some vette valve covers and the transformation is complete haha!
I'd get on Amazon and buy a copy of this book for $20. https://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Small-...ocphy=9014219&hvtargid=pla-567866028942&psc=1 Then I would accept the fact that that this is a poor engine thats going to have very limited performance no matter what you do. Armed with the book above (or one of the several others on Amazon), I'd find an actual 350. OK, I know that sounds kinda hard, but why compound a mistake? You said there are some other items on the motor that offset the expenditure. Here are some things to consider....... First, the car that you want to put it in (your Avatar ?) is not a lightweight car. Second you will be very limited as to which heads you can install on the engine due to the fact that the small bore size will not accomodate very large valves. When you think about "installing a hotter cam"....realize that when you do that, your limited valve size will make it difficult to gain much power, and if you increase top end power you will lose bottom and midrange power......both of which you need with a heavy car. There will be some who will tell you its a great engine.......its OK in a very light car, but you want something that can accelerate and cruise comfortably. THATS why a 350 is so popular. When you start out with a stock 350 you will have the capability of way more torque all thru your driving range......and if you decide to upgrade the cam, you will still have more low end than the 305. It costs no more to recondition a 350 than it does a 305.....maybe less since parts are so common. I'd keep searching for a 350. You can probably find a complete used one for a few hundred dollars. I bought one last spring for $150 (I think). It had an aluminum intake, and alum valve covers. Sold the stock heads for $50 and have the shortblock sitting in my shed. Yes it needs a new crank, but if I build it I would buy an aftermarket kit anyway. Bought two other shortblocks for about $100 ea as well. Its just way better to start with the more capable engine than to pour you money into one with very limited ability. I'd look for one with a one piece rear seal and maybe a 700r4 trans to go behind it. Experience is a tough teacher, but you can probably sell your 305 and get most of your money back and then take your time and find a good buy on a 350. Good Luck with your project! Edit: Just looked for 350s on the local Facebook Marketplace. There are several below $300 complete. I'd look for an Off Topic mid 90s Truck engine with fuel injection. Then pull the intake off and substitute an aluminum intake and carb. You can check the underhood tag for engine info.
One of my customers owned a large agri business, I serviced his trucks. One of them flattened the cam, we replaced with a crate 350. The 1989 core was gifted to me, low mileage... Rings, bearings, polished crank, Comp cam & Rhodes lifters, Edelbrock Performer intake, 600 carb and 350 T.H. Runs very well in my '55 F100, 106 MPH @13.20 on street tires & mufflers. Cam a little 'steep', 290 Comp. LOL Installed it in '95, still starts in 2 seconds. Hate to replace it with that 354 hemi...
I bought a 85 Pontiac big wagon brand new. It would run very strong. It would run as strong as I ever wanted. Back when we had 55 mph speed limits, I could get 25 mpg. I loved that 305
Back in the '80s, there was an on going article in popular hot rodding magazine about getting dang near 30 mpg in 70ish Monte Carlo.... I wonder if we can find it online..??... That was with a 350 and a 4bbl carb....
Agree check the compression - if good run it. Gaskets and valve seals are a maybe. Spray bomb it with a fresh coat if orange is a definite. About any cam you find is bigger than a mid 70s 305 cam, even other stock cams. See if anyone has an illustrious "RV" cam laying on the shelf. This is a very common "torque" or "RV" cam. You can get a cam kit for around $120 with lifters, see summit and jegs link below. It would act "plenty big" in a 305 or smaller engine and should still have plenty of manners. Valve Lift (INT/EXH): .422"/.444" ADV Duration (INT/EXH): 278°/288° Duration @ .050" (INT/EXH): 204°/214° Centerline (INT/EXH): 107°/112° Comparison to a few common factory grinds. 3896929, 3733431, 14060651 327 300hp HYDRAULIC Lift .390 / .410 Dur @ .050 195/202 LSA 112 3896962 L82 late 70's vette HYDRAULIC Lift .450/.460 Dur @ .050 222/222 or 224/224 LSA 114 https://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/1...QUAMPV_1DhbtBaYwYKIWk86kkwRIsSroaArSLEALw_wcB https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1102/make/chevrolet
I wouldn't fret about it being "just" a 305. I'm putting a pretty mild carbureted 305 in the front engine dragster I'm building and get questioned why not a 350 or 383 or ???? I say why not the 305? I think it will still take plastic surgery to get the smile off my face. Lynn
With the CPB code being only those to choices, .....then it has to be the 305 since we have already confirmed the 262 and 305 block casting number. the 262 is basically just a short stroke in the 305 block. The 267 has the tiniest bore of any SBC, at just 3.500" and does not use the same block as the 305 does. Uses the same longer stroke as a 350 at 3.48". The 267 has a block casting all to itself, no other variants of that 3.500" bore block . 305, 267, and 262 all get pushed aside for performance use because they are all really small bore.....no way to put really good large valve cylinder heads on them and make big power. that's why nobody wants them. The 283 and the 307 suffer the same problem, to a lesser degree though.
Lots of good info here, thanks all. I have decided to get this thing on a stand, compression test and if within range I will throw a mild cam in it with new lifters and timing chain set. From there I only need a carb, plugs, wires, water pump pulley, and alternator to run. A member on here is giving me a set of 350 heads, so the plan is find a good 350 block with rotating assembly and build it how I want it over time. I feel the 305 will be fine to get me up and running. I really want to have this car on the road next summer, it won't be done done but at least running, driving, and stopping. Also the 305 will be fine for getting the sbc swap kit in it, as it's a sbc like any other as far as mounting is concerned. I sure appreciate all the help! Really glad I joined, very cool place to be. Now to work more overtime and get the engine mount kit, trans Mount, parallel leaf kit.......I can go all day ....
How many here have posted about how hot their tri 5 chevy with a 283 or 301 was? Yes they were high rpm/short stroke but he is not building a race car, the 305 will produce a decent amount of torque to move him as long as he respects its limits. I put over 600K miles on 4.3 v6 powered work trucks, the right rear gear and transmission will make that 305 plenty for street use. A 3:70 rear gear and a 700r4 will surprise a lot of cars.
The 305 heads may not be as bad as you think, depending what rpm you want to run. There are some pretty pathetic 350 heads out there, post up the casting numbers. I've spent very little time on 305's not sure if 1.94 / 1.5 valve clearance to 305 cylinder wall is a concern.
Dan, one thing you will find is a wide variety of opinions on here. The trick is to logically sift thru whats provided and see what makes sense.......or is even believeable. One of the favorite stories I recall (not on the Hamb) was a guy telling how fast his 283 powered 57 Chevy was. Swore it would pull the front wheels off the ground and keep them there all the way across an intersection.... Whatever you do, its going to be an application of the Laws of Physics.......and the results are going to reflect how wise your decisions were. Many times whats cheapest isn't whats bestus.......or even good enuff. Nothing wrong with getting the car running with the 305, but ultimately you will find you also need to make choices about your transmission and rear end gearing. Just start out by remembering that 55 is not the currently accepted speed on an expressway and 10 mpg isn't good for a daily driver......then figure out what components get you acceptable speed and mileage on the top end........but gives reasonable acceleration on the "On Ramp" too. You don't want 3500+ rpms all the time when cruising but you still want decent acceleration when needed. What is the best way to get that?
Those heads had valve guide problems. Did dozens of swaps . The 305 is okay , nothing wrong but seeing how dirty it was I doubt it was well maintained. Check valves by removing valve cover and inspect the springs for replacement seals especially on the intake . Chevy used o ring seals and a quick ( and cheap ) temporary fix was to install mushroom seals . Good luck . PS check the color and condition of the plugs as they came out of the motor . High oil consumption would show on the plugs
I think a decent running 305 will be just fine for a cruiser. I had one in a ‘78 Camaro, 2bbl th350, 2.2? Rear end. Wasn’t a speed demon for sure, but had 45k when I got it, 160k when I sold it. Never burnt oil, never had the valve covers off. Maybe I got lucky.
I've had a 305 before in a 77 elcamino. It wasn't a powerhouse but ran good until I pulled it and swapped in a 355. Should be fine for at least a while. Now to find a rear end for the 41, thinking about a gm 10 bolt with 373 gears
The 262 small block used a 3.100" stroke crank.... Now, imagine one of those in a 350 block..... I come up with close to 312 cubes...
And the 262 crank is a large journal, so no issues with bearing spacers or thick bearings required to run in a typical large journal 350 block. Back to OP's 305. A running 305 to get the car going and sort out is way better than spending the extra time and money on a full new 350. Get the car going with the 305, then find and build a 350 to swap out later, once you have had some fun and have the car working good.
Yep that's exactly the plan. The cool thing is the 305 has the eps intake, HEI dist etc so I can swap right over to the 350. Also scored a free th400 tonight so I can use it for a core to get a rebuilt th350, I understand it's much easier to fit the th350. Seems harsh to give up a 400 though!
Pulled plugs tonight, oily threads unfortunately. If it runs it will work for a bit until I get a 350 built, or at the very least a mock up engine. I need a test stand to try and run it, be nice to see if it's a smoker at least.
Interesting, seen from Europe... We're used to ~2l 4-cylinder engines, around 100 horse or less stock in the old cars. Across the pond you sit there and think a 5l V8 is too small and weak even to cruise down the road.
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