I'm UK based but building up a traditional '46 Ford Tudor Sedan. I've replaced the straight 6 with a 283 chevy bored out +30, running powerpack heads through an Holley carb and ram horn manifolds. All of this through the standard 3 speed (replaced the original with a V8 trans), original torque tube and rear end. I'm in the process of building up the front end and I'm fitting a Posie 2" lowered spring and Pete and Jakes front shocks. The problem I'm having though is clearance between the original panhard rod and the new lower shock mount. There just isn't room to fit both. Does anyone have a solution for this? I'm thinking at the moment I could replace the panhard mounting pin with an offset one (I would machine this myself) and shorten the panhard a little to suit. Is this possible? It looks like the mount is secured into the hairpin by a dowel, could I drill this out and push the original mount out?
Can you fabricate a triangular 1/4'' piece of flat stock and drill two holes, one for the existing shock bolt and one for the pan hard mount and bolt it down behind the shock. Drill another hole down a couple of inches down to anchor the pan hard bar.
Pete & Jakes say among other things that the stock sway bar is supposed to be removed to use that shock kit. Personally I would just weld a piece of 9/16" id tube to the inner edge of the stock sway bar mount maybe about the 4 o'clock mark and make a new sway bar using urethane bushed rod ends. I'd make the frame end adjustable. I used a '48 axle with shock mount provision (which is another option, late axles are pretty cheap); but I still made a new bar because the stock bar no longer fit due to the lowering. I was able to use the stock hole bushed to fit the thru bolt. Not the best picture.
Of course, KISS principle, thanks I had completely missed the obvious solution. Mocked this up in card, if I make it from plate, with a sleeve where the original mount is and shorten the panhard rod to suit it should work a treat! I'll wait till I have the front fully built to check for any clearance or binding issues should work a treat.
If you go with your idea in post 6, how would it look with both plates the same as the back plate, - it would be stronger. How much work to change the shock mount, or would you then need to do both sides ?
I would only add, that if you did do the two plates, if possible box the the plates for a little more strength and stability.
You know that the bolt, the shock is on, is the top pin on the shackle and rotates when the shackle swings; the shock bushing can accept this motion, plates added to this pivot not so much.
I've deleted my post, since what @Nailhead Jason posted after, well, just makes everything else kinda silly!
Get rid of those bullshit shackles that have a shock stud on them, Ive yet to see a set of those last too long no mater who makes them. What you need is an old Western Auto Tube shock conversion kit. Not exactly easy to find but several place make a version of it. Weedeater Street Rods does i believe. Here is one I found on the net in 5 min. from Joes early ford. https://www.joesantiqueauto.com/tube-shock-conversion-kit-11a-18124-kit The up right brackets bolt in in place of the original Lever shocks. The top of the shock bolts to that, the bottom of the shock bolts to a perch bolt with an eye on it to allow the shock to be bolted to it, right on top of the axle.. I have this exact set up on my 39, and have put it on dozens of cars. The way you are trying to do it with the shackles is not going to work. Like you found out there is not room. That panhard bar is important and needs to be there, especially on a 46 to 48. There is no need to start creating things to make it more complicated with add on brackets to move shit around. If you don't want to spend the buck on the whole kit from someone, the uprights are readily available used both here on the hamb or through E bay. Your Original axle perch bolts should have eyes on them for the lever shock links to bolt to, thats all you bolt the lower end of the shock to and your done.
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