Technical Looking for a new 1956 Ford Fairlane Victoria Steering Column

Hi Everyone,

As I am almost near to finish my 1956 Ford Victoria Restoration, I am in shop for a new Steering Column, before deciding the options I must mention that I have an 351W engine with an AOD transmission, I looked at some of the options but there are not many manufacturers of steering columns for this car, either I have an option for a GM which is very bulky and I did not like it or there is also the option for 40 series which made of two 1 column and tube, add the hand gear to this mix, the options that I have is very slim, I am really trying to keep the interior as original as I can but I really want to get a new modern column if It is suitable for the interior cosmetically and technically so I am really wondering what do you recommend for this type of car ? I am the kind of guy who really tries to keep everything as original as I can but at the same time, I lean more to slightly modern engine and tranny setup so what cab you recommend ?

 

Not sure of any new columns, but why not use an original automatic column? That’s what’s in my car and fits just like it was designed to be there.

 

What is unsuitable with your original stock column?

 

I'm retaining the OEM hydramatic column in my 46 Olds and using a Limeworks assembly to work a 700R. I'm mounting it behind the OEM Olds shifter head. I'm still deciding on whether or not to use a morse cable or shift rod assembly to connect column to transmission. Shift gate may require modification to suit AOD. Or you could do what @X38 did with his sloper column and modify it to work with auto trans.

 

If you're trying to keep the original 'look' including the steering wheel, the original column will be the best choice. Also whether or not you've retained the OEM steering box enters into it. The aftermarket just doesn't have anything that really 'fits' these cars all that well, particularly if you want to keep the OEM wheel. There's two main issues.

If you kept the OEM steering box, the main 'flaw' with the OEM column is it lacks proper shift detents for the newer trans. This can be addressed by modifying the detent plate at the top of the column by welding/reshaping the plate. This can be finicky work but is definitely doable. Will probably also require working on the linkage geometry and the neutral safety switch, which I'll note would very likely have to be done with an aftermarket column too. If all you're really concerned about is getting P/R/N/OD/D, you can 'adjust' the OEM linkage (along with 'correcting' the linkage geometry) to operate those but won't have access to all of the lower gear detents without modding the detent plate. Remember that the '56 neutral safety switch only allows starting in neutral, not park.

If you've swapped to a newer steering box, you no longer have a way to operate the horn and there's considerably more work involved. Ford used a through-the-steering-shaft horn wire up to '57, in '58 they added a wire to the turn signal switch for this and put a 'wiper' on the wheel which the earlier wheels lack. Best choice IMO is to find a '58-59 Ford car column and wheel. This column is almost identical in appearance and the steering wheel is very similar, and if you find a Cruisomatic column will have one more shift detent which could be helpful (these are the P/R/N/D2/D1/L shift pattern). This column will require shortening and adding a lower bearing to locate the shaft.

As you've already found out, the aftermarket really doesn't have anything that will do what you want. The easy way out is a floor shifter...

 

Thanks for all the feedback, I am also thinking to buy a rack and pinion kit, this kit has the modern steering box, here is the link:

https://www.unisteer.com/products/1955-56-ford-rack-pinion-kit

So in this case if I were to use the original column with this kit and steering box, will I still run into issues, the only thing that I see is the adjustment of shift dents but do not know if the steering column length would cause me any issues regarding this situation, what do you think. ?

 

There is this one, but only for F series

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/ford/f-100/parts/tr17513e.html

 

I think this is the one that produces the knobs with 3D, but not for my car.

https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Dash-Knob-Set-Sweptline-3-pcs-p104524403

 

The description specifically states that you can't use the OEM column/linkage. If your existing steering box is sound, there's no reason to replace it. And keep in mind that the engine swap has knocked more than 100 lbs off the front of the car, which will substantially reduce steering effort even with manual steering. I had a '56 Ford coupe with a 351W swap, pulled the factory PS and never missed it.

If you need a new box or just have to have power steering, I'd look here: Borgeson Universal Company > Search
Less money, still a bolt-on, but you'll still have to swap to a newer column as noted above.

And there are rebuild kits available for the OEM box. They require a bit of machine work and welding to replace the shaft worm gear as that's usually what goes bad, but it's not major.

 

Thanks Steve,

I am a little bir confused, because there is a " stock column" option which you can choose with this rack and pinion but at the same time, it says that, This kit will not work with the factory column shifter, but it will work with an aftermarket column shifter. the problem is that the main shaft of the steering is broken and cannot find it in Turkey. here is the picture.

 

So if I were to purchase a new column what would be my best option for this car, I could not find a suitable one, only this one and even this one is not the correct one.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Idid...t-Steering-Column-4-Speed-30-Inch,294128.html

 

This is my opinion. Unless your current steering linkages, ball joints and steering box are totally destroyed or missing, I think you are searching for solutions to a problem that doesn't exist. And when I say that I mean they can be replaced/rebuilt as necessary, unless they really are totally destroyed or missing. Much better than aftermarket buzz word bandaid snakeoil 'kits.'

And you did say 'restore.'

 

Sometimes ya just gotta get past the instructions and move forward with what you have. I was told I couldn't do it but they didn't know my hidden talents. I won't put any Tilt Column in a Old School build period. Stock 2 speed 51 column Connected to a 700-R-4 and the selector in spot on Park, Neutral, and Low. All it takes is understanding the Job at hand a little Math and some minor Fab Skills. It's also connected to a GM power steering box. It was no big deal, just a job.

Could imagine this interior with an Idiot Tilt column in it?

 

Don' get caught up in the "Me-Too" billet and aftermarket crowd.

 

A fellow on y-blocksforever.com did a rack and pinion kit with stock column, but his was a 4 speed with floor shift.

 

You guys aren't reading, he said a couple of posts above that the reason he needs a new column is the shaft is broken in his, and he can't find a replacement in Turkey. I figure any American cars that were imported there were mostly gone years ago, so he can't just run to a junkyard and grab one.

Maybe one of you guys have one you could sell and ship to him, or maybe he can find a machine shop to make one or repair what he has.

 

Why can't the shaft be welded back together?

 

If he contacts Shoebox Central at 405-259-9222 or [email protected] I bet they would find a way to ship him all the pieces he needs. One Stop Shopping at a fair price.

 

I saw that, but I figure if he can buy and have shipped R&P kits, aftermarket columns etc. he can buy and have an original column shipped. Either from a direct source like those mentioned, ebay, whatever. Put a wanted ad in the HAMB classifieds.

Also, I concur with jimmy six about locations. (Same applies to including a decent picture in the 1st post. Another constant frustration.)

 

If you go to another steering box, you end up shortening the stock column/shaft, adding a bearing, and working out the column shift linkage. Same type of work for an aftermarket column, you cut the oem steering shaft, add a coupler, etc. Once you do that it probably as much work as salvaging the original column and box. Post a picture of the box, showing how much stub of a shaft is left. You might be able to just slightly shorten the column, add a bearing, and use DD couplers and shafts in the middle. You’d also have to add a column support at the floorboards, but that’s the easy part.

Your 56 steering/ suspension is almost identical to my 55 bird. The off topic racks often have a real bump steer problem. It’s likely cheaper, easier, and better to deal with what you have.

 

Thanks for all the feedback, well the problem is with the second hand parts, it is almost impossible to import it because by law you cannot import used products, my brother in law he lives in US and visits us from time to time, my best option would be if I could find a column, I could ask him to bring it.

 

OK, so somebody cut the steering shaft. Do you have the part that was cut off? Do you have the complete OEM column assembly and steering wheel? Any other missing parts for the steering, like the pitman arm, center link, etc etc? If your only real problem is the cut shaft, repair it. If you have the cut-off piece, find a good welder and splice it back together. Even if the piece is missing, all is not lost. Ford used basically the same steering box '54 through '57, with the main difference being shaft length. If you can find any of those (other than a '56 box), simply cut a length needed to return yours to the right length and weld it together. If you can't find one, have your brother pick up a 24" length cut off the top of any of these and bring it to you. Clean the part up, maybe media blast it, and he can tell customs it's a 'refurbished' part, I.E. not used.

The rebuild kit for the steering box is readily available and is actually sourced out of Argentina, you may be able to buy that direct from the manufacturer.

Anything else you do will be non-original appearing, and won't accept your OEM Ford steering wheel.

 

Thank you very much Steve, actually my problem is the steering. shaft and unfortunately I am missing the steering box, I had it but upon extensive searching I could not find it, so lets say if I get a borgeson steering box it will work with OEM steering shaft I guess. So. if I could not locate the steering box in that case in order to use it with OEM shaft, borgeson will work with that is that correct ?

 

This is getting more clear as we go here. I have not had any good feed back about the R&P change over. Yes you can get it installed but out of 4 different owners/drivers I have not found one happy with the final results. I personally have not installed any and have refused to take on such a job. The Borgeson unit I would say is your best next move. Again I have not installed one in 55/56 Ford but have in 57/59 Ford. I wish the end of steering box was further away from the Floorboard. Past that I have no complaint. As Steve said fix the shaft you have. I have spliced several over the years. It's no big deal. Personally I would never Butt Weld one. I bore a 4" long sleeve and stick 2" in from both pieces and plug weld as well end weld, have never had an issue. It's just 3/4" shaft material you can get from most suppliers.

 

Yep, more clarity now... You've got some decisions to make.

If full originality is the main goal, the only way to achieve it will be with a OEM steering box. There are vendors who offer rebuilt steering boxes for these but it may take a search to find one, being 'rebuilt' that should get them past the customs inspectors. How difficult this will be to do from Turkey I can't say. The only column mod needed will be reworking the shift detents if desired.

If you substitute an aftermarket steering box (and I'll also strongly recommend the Borgeson unit), you can retain the OEM column/steering wheel and turn signal function but will lose the horn function at the wheel. This will require a pushbutton for the horn mounted somewhere. You'll still need a Ford steering shaft from somewhere, but this need only have the right diameter/spline count to accept the '56 wheel and fit the column, it won't need to be hollow like the OEM shaft. Ford didn't change the spline for years so locally sourcing one may be possible, I believe you can also buy a new one but don't recall where, Ididit may be able to help you. You'll also need the original-type pitman arm as Borgeson doesn't supply that with the box. Your factory column will need a fair amount of modification; shortening both the column and shift mechanism, installing a bearing at the box end, and the detent mod. All of these aftermarket boxes are power-assist I believe, so a pump, mounting brackets for it, and hoses will be needed.

Switching to an aftermarket column will cause you to lose the OEM steering wheel. The vast majority of them are configured to accept late GM steering wheels only or aftermarket equivalents. Ididit does offer a handful of columns for '69-newer Mustangs (but these lack the column shift) and Ford trucks that accept later OEM wheels but your '56 wheel, while fitting the shaft spline, will not work as the turn signal switch/horn configuration is too different. Some of the later truck wheels will look somewhat similar but are far from identical. This combination will not look original. I personally would also avoid buying the column until the steering box is installed so you can positively determine column length before ordering. And while this would pretty much eliminate any column mods, you will still need to modify the OEM attachment points for the column.

Stay away from this one. While it more closely resembles what you have, it's not really configured right for your car. It's designed for a non-dished steering wheel, if you use a dished wheel similar to OEM the shift lever will end up too close to the dash, possible even hitting it.

I don't know how American parts supplies in Turkey are, but personally I'd look for a complete '67-72 Ford F100 or F250 truck column/wheel assembly with column shift. Repair/replacement parts are readily available and not overly expensive, it will look very similar to the aftermarket types but with a bit less 'aftermarket' look and may be far cheaper. Any of these options will require some fab work on your part, there is no 'bolt-in' solution here.

 

Maybe I missed it but is the break on the steering wheel end or the steering box end? @Crazy Steve gave you the correct answer as far as using the Borgenson unit. You will have to shorten the stock column and tube to use the Borgenson unit so you may be in luck if the break is on the box side.

 

Thank you very much Steve for this detailed explanation, well in my case it is not so easy to decide I really would like to go with the unisteer R&P but if I do, they have a selection there saying that it will work with the OEM steering shaft and if I do choose this then it says " This kit will not work with the factory column shifter, but it will work with an aftermarket column shifter." so if it does not work with the column shifter then basically it will not work with the OEM column, as I mentioned before I have an AOD transmission and lokar sells a kit specifically for this purpose " Lokar Column Shift linkage" here is the link of that part:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-aca-1807

So if I get the unisteer R&D using it with stock column and the lokar AOD Column shift linkage will I be able to make it work or it just does not work ? if it does not work is there any R&P kit which enables the column shifter to work also ? Thanks

 

Well, the first thing I'll say is I'd avoid the Unisteer R&P like the plague. Don't get me wrong, I like R&P steering, but only if it's attached to the suspension system it was designed for. Too many of these conversions end up with compromised geometry that can't be adjusted out. I've learned my lesson with these types of kits, never again. Another thing with these kits is many contain 'propriatary' parts (most times only available from the original supplier) which can be a sourcing nightmare a few years down the road if parts/repairs are needed. I'd HIGHLY recommend the Borgeson box if you can't find an OEM one, you're only changing one part, the rest of the steering linkage will remain as OEM; no odd-ball parts, iffy engineering or non-stock alignments needed.

Now, as far as 'compatibility' between all these parts, keep in mind that unless you buy a complete assembly (steering, column, etc) designed for EXACT fit FOR YOUR CAR, some mods and/or fab work WILL be needed. I suspect their claim that the OEM column won't work refers to a totally stock one (encouraging you to spend more money on an aftermarket unit) when the likely reality is that a properly modified OEM column will work just the same if not better for you. This is why I recommend installing the steering box before buying a column if you go that route; you can get accurate measurements that way instead of a best guess. If you have reasonable fab skills shortening an OEM column isn't that hard and will be much cheaper than replacing it, and you can keep your OEM steering wheel.

As to the Lokar shift rod, that's a very generic 'universal' part and from looking at it I suspect the included rod will probably be too short in any case. If your AOD is from a column-shift car (not a floor shift), fabbing a shift rod from some 3/8" rod won't be too tough. If you have the original shift rod, it can probably be modified to work. If you do have a floor-shift version trans, removing the lever and modding it isn't a big deal. You'd have to remove it to swap to the Lokar lever anyway, save yourself $90.

Bottom line, buying a bunch of aftermarket parts will 'fix' some issues but create others, most of the time reworking what you have will end up being roughly the same amount of work but much cheaper. At least that's been my experience.

 

I adjusted Steve's post to reflect my outlook after 40+ years in the business. The sooner you learn the Aftermarket suppliers are NOT there to make your life easier you'll finally start moving forward. There number 1 Goal is plain and simple, to get into your wallet. Once they do that your on your own and you will end up buying more aftermarket "STUFF" to try and make the first batch you have come together and you can't get there. If you set your expectations Low they will help you achieve most of that. Most Tec lines are just there to make you believe your problem with there parts is your fault.