Technical radiator crashes into cross member - what's the solve?

My grille shell & radiator combo sits up about a half inch too high. Upon further investigation, I found that the bottom angles on the radiator are sitting on the cross-member.
What's the solve for this? Modify the Walker radiator (unused), or the cross-member?

 

You need a rubber cushion between the bottom of the mount and the cross member. HRP

 

Id cut the crossmember but ive modified both crossmembers and radiators in the past. Less steps to deal with the crossmember

 

Running a hood?
Has to be considered when moving radiators around

 

You need to give more information. Checking your profile and other postings, it appears you are trying to use a 32 radiator and grille shell on aModel A frame. You will need to cut the x-member or raise the radiator. I raised the radiator on mine. I'm running without a hood.

 

What all above said, & you might have to recess a pocket in cross for lower outlet,
All parts are not made equal.

 

is it why this exists?

 

Radiators have to replaced someday, crossmembers don't likely. Thus I would mod the crossmember and keep the radiator stock. Your future self will appreciate when he is installing a new radiator someday. But before you go to the hassle make sure your radiator wont sit too low after the mod and make the hood run down hill when all is assembled

 

Do they not make shorter radiators?

 

Yes, Walker used to make a radiator with a flat bottom. Probably what was intended to be used with that crossmember.

 

It looks like there needs to be some serious cutting and trimming to get that to fit the way you want it to to have everything at the right height when all is said and done.

 

I see some welding, cross member modded, yes?

 

I have a channelled model A with a flat front crossmember and a walker radiator with a 32 grille shell, If I wanted to run a bonnet I would shorten the radiator. Glen

 

Thanks all...
It's a 32 Ford roadster with a pinched 32 frame. The cross-member has been modified, but that modification did not affect the height of the radiator mounting pads.
I am running a full hood. On the radiator side, the vertical edge of the hood is 1/2" (exact same measurement as the Gap I have underneath the radiator mounting tabs) too long to fit stock hood dimensions - there will be a half inch Gap at the bottom. The back edge measurement where it meets the cowl is perfect.
I took it outside and put a piece of green tape on it to see if my grill shell was up too high...thoughts?

 

Hard to tell from a picture. Stand to the side, as well as the front, to see if your hood runs up hill.

 

Ok, from the 2nd pic it looks like you could raise the radiator just a bit. Hood looks downhill, but I'm not there and the background mullers up the view. Suggestion, raise the car til the flattest part is dead level and sneak another peek. Looks like the door tops are good spot to set a level and raise to a zero bubble. Again, the pic seems like it, and if thats the case get the pads under it and move ahead.

 

Hood looks fine to me, put some spacers in there and bolt it down.

 

Is the body sitting right on the frame or is there something between the body and frame? I think that needs to be addressed first. JMO.

 

You do need the cushion mounts between the radiator mount tabs and the where they bolt to the cross member.
You didn't mention, but do you have the body to frame shims and mounting cushions in place, or is the body bolted directly to the frame for your mock-up fitting?

 

Looking at 2nd picture, height looks ok but bottom of shell/radiator needs to be pushed forward some so it is parallel with firewall vertically.

 

No cushions between cross-member and radiator, there's a 1/2" gap there now.
Body directly on frame.

I ground some material off of the crossmember to at least give those bottom corners some clearance - they were contacting.

 

I don't think that the back edge of the grill shell and the front edge of the cowl are necessarily supposed to be parallel. This is from Rootlieb's website...

 

Ok, but in 2nd picture it looks a little funny with radiator appearing to be tilted in reference to cowl. Mine is straighter.

 

Body pads would fix the whole gig. Body goes up a touch, allows you to crank bolts to "taste" to set the door gaps to perfection, then up with the radiator a whisper with it's pads. Might even get some bonus room between the body and mechanical stuff below. Those Drake "body shock" deals (I think?) are pretty effective. You'll be happy you did it and solve problems you don't have...yet.

 

When using Non Original parts , modifications are required, a Stock 32 has No body shims /pads except @ rear shim made after adjusted made @ cowl & rear subrail bolt . Stock 32 with no rake the hood is Horizontal straight /flat from rear hing to front hing ,if you have hood sides it would help get all measurements /belt line straight, also in first pick of rad bolts look angled , should be Vatical ,crossmember or rad Bolt holes, Look needs to be slotted more.
Your build Looks nice , in pass you have asked alot of Questions so it seems you want to get close to correct as you can .

 

You just ground all that? No cutting and welding? That crossmember is only 1/8” thick and it looks like you ground through most of that.

 

^^ I Agree ^^

If that is all done with just grinding the parent metal is going to be awful thin and will probably create stress cracks along the corners...

 

Yes they are.

 

I did an O/T street rod that was slated for no body pads. I guess if I wanted to solder up door jambs for fit and cut hood sides and dick around with top to windshield and... Yeah, fuck all that. I put pads on the frame between the body and solved EVERYTHING. Once the lock washer is crushed they don't back off. Really worried? Use nylocs. Pulling down the bolts behind the cowl tips the top of it back until the front door line is perfect for suicide doors, adjusts the rear line and hgt in std doors. Yes it's a fine adjustment and learned after years of Packard and other high end restorations. The reduction in harshness and ride quality is just a bonus. Mid durometer rubber is ok, you can also use webbing stacked as needed for shimming and adjustment needs. Side note, Packard and Duesenberg used oil soaked webbing about 3/16 to a 1/4 thick and pulled down to size. Good for rocker and door adjustments on coupes and sedans too. Amazing how much these old fuckers move around.

 

My '29 AV8 with original '32 shell leans forward alot and is obvious without the hood. I leaned it back only to find the hood wouldn't fit. I found the exact same thing on my current '32 Fordor project. The rake on both make them look like the radiator shell is leaning too much but on the '32 with original hood it has to lean forward. Chassis sitting level it doesn't seem out of place but with rake and no hood it sure does.

The '32 4dr with red wheels @HOTRODPRIMER posted on my '32 thread.

Dave