Technical Patina question

If in appropriate, feel free to delete. I don't get the whole patina thing but in my quest to finance my projects I acquired a very nice, unmolested Pickup, which I plan to flip to build the 413 for my Henry J. So simple question, should I CLR and buff it, or leave it in it's natural(neglected ) state. When I put it up for sale. I will not clear coat over rust. 413 pistons are expensive, so I want to ride the wave and get the best return.

 

Leave it as is or Gibbs oil it but nothing else. And for sure don't spray any clear coat on it. JMO.

 

The CLR will remove rust stains and clean up some of the paint.
I’m not interested in clear coated naturally aged paint.
Let the next guy do that.
Clean, minor buffing then Gibbs or linseed oil is how I’d handle it

 

Leave it alone. If you want to wash it with soapy water, that would be ok, I suppose. Don't put oil or clear on it, it will just look stupid.

 

Scrubbing with scotchbrite and CLR would be a good choice but don’t clear it or soak it with any oil. That should make it presentable enough with not a lot of effort.

 

Wash then Gibbs.

 

A boiled linseed cocktail doesn’t last forever. No harm , no foul .

 

My take is every step you do past washing it takes away options for the buyer. In my opinion this reduces the buyer pool.

 

NEVER, and I mean NEVER use linseed oil or Gibbs on a car body. Those oils never totally dry, they permeate bare metal and rust, and the "next guy" will play havoc trying to get bondo, primer and paint to sufficiently adhere...unless the whole body is chemically dipped.

 

CLR, pat dry, powder it's ass, re-diaper it and send it on its way. No oil, or wax of any kind, you don't want to give the next guy a headache (or lose a sale because he doesn't want to deal with oil).

 

I coat bare metal, primer, and paint with Gibbs all of the time and have never had any trouble.

 

First I have heard about that with Gibbs.
I know painters that use it when their shop displays bare steel cars.

 

CLR then carnuba wax.

 

Wash it..people who are "into" patina that will buy it, will know what to do with their new car, I'm sure would prefer a blank canvas to apply their own technique.

 

let the next guy do it, all I'd do is clean the rat's nests out and get it running, unless you plan on keeping it. then you can do as you wish, personally, I like my cars a little beat up, makes it easier to drive them around and park in places, knowing someone's gonna ding the door.

 

It's also a hell of a lot less work....a guy can spend years making a car look nice...and spend way too much money.

I've done both, they're both fun, but some cars just aren't worth the effort.

 

As has been said .

Clean it , CLR , Gibbs , wax what ever .

I wouldn’t spend a bucks on anything except detail it and get it squeaky clean and running .

it shows your not hiding anything , and clean always sells better then dirty.


At work I call it “ the used truck special”
Get a used forklift trade in , pressure was it inside and out top to bottom tape up any rips in the seat , new grease on the mast and grease points , and touch up any black or dark grey paint .
Unit looks 1000 times better with a couple hours worth of time into it.

we don’t sell units like this , but we do have customers that want to see the unit “ before” being rebuilt by our shop.
A forklift that looks ok before getting rebuilt is better then one covered in dirt and dust.
It makes the sale easier , and potentially get a few bucks more for it .

 

Time is money.
How much time(and materials) do you want to waste hoping the next owner likes it?
Sell as is.

 

Ain't life grand? Another no consensus thread. LOL

Ben

 

It is all relative as to how much "patina" it has...faded paint and heavy surface rust are worlds apart.

 

Crusty and smelly isn't appealing. Clean the hell out of it, get the moldy stink out. Have it running / driving / functional.

Degrease / power wash everything. Sprinkle baking soda all over the interior and let it sit closed up for a few days and vacuum it up. Wipe down all interior surfaces with soapy water.

There's a specific Market for surface rust that doesn't extend to the overall market. If you can reduce that rust and staining with CLR or similar acid treatment (citric acid) applied topically - it doesn't cost much and improves the appearance greatly.

 

None of any type, it all looks like crap IMO that's why we have paint. I get why guys are into it and to each their own. Here in Wisconsin a lot of young men are into it, If you don't like My Opinion, Don't ask for it. I'm an Old Timer, I like shiny paint.

 

I agree with clean it up good, inside and out. But no other surface prep or coatings.

Post a pic so we can see exactly what it looks like.

 

There's always the bar keep friend or comet cleanser wash. It does help a small amount with rust. It does take oxidation and crud off. It is not kind to the existing finish. but it is a cheap quick way to decrud a vehicle that's been neglected.

In the past I've scuffed any rusty patches. Applied the crappy rust converter (before evaporust and others were available) washed with degreaser or dish soap, soft bristle brush to get in all the nooks, hit the whole car with a cleaner wax / buffer with wool pad - glass and all. Get a bottle of cheap wax the chalky paint will drink it up. The buffer does the work, the materials aren't expensive.

Now I'd use evaporust / CLR / Naval jelly depending on how heavy the rust scale is.

If you want to work at it. Get some color match paint and thin it at least 50% brush a piss thin coat on the area where the rust has been neutrailized with acid, apply 3 or 4 coats so it still has a transparency. It does seal up the area and allows a bit of repair without having to worry about a dead on color match. 1 step further is to mix a little clear in with the piss thin repair coat. After you buff over the whole finish the sheen will even out, or you can dribble in some flattening agent.

 

These differing opinions reflect the buyers that will consider your ride.
Threads like this are fun.
no opinion is incorrect.
They never are

 

It is interesting. In the old days I would have primered it, and painted the engine, but this thing is so original it still has the carburetor tag . Best running 390 I have ever had.

 

I would be more likely to pass over a primered car as a project. Possibly.
I prefer to seem them “naked”.

 

And still no pics..............
All opinions are somewhat irrelevant without a reference point. It would be great if you could show us exactly what your interpretation of 'patina' is.