Hot Rods Alternative method to sandblasting

JMHO go back above and read member "Beanscoot" post it makes the most sense for future rust coming back from trapping any water, liquid or anything of a wet solution in areas that can't be completely dried. CASE CLOSED.

 

Citric acid will affect some paints.

I usually sandblast after the acid treatment. Removes any remaining paint and whatever else and as @49ratfink said, it makes a good surface for paint.

If you've tried citric acid and it didn't work well, there was a mistake made in the process. Very probably, not enough acid for the volume of water. Or you didn't have patience enough. Cold temperature slows the process.

 

No offence taken,,,,,if you want a better result, just let it soak some more days.

 

Yep. I was able to purchase a used Scatblast cabinet twenty years ago and it was probably the best tool I've ever bought. It gets used every week, and the quality of my work is SOOO much better having nice clean parts. A plain steel wheel with surface rust is a ten minute job. If there are pits it would be a twenty minute job. But all the rust would be GONE!

 

Citric acid. Even thou you don`t like it.

 

To each his own Stan, but your pictures just help to bolster the point that sandblasting is so much better. After all those hours that those parts were bathed in "orange juice", I could never use them without blasting them afterwards. They are still loaded with rust pits that would come right back out after a whole bunch of filler, sanding & paint work. Since I am always short on time for my cars, I am going to do it properly the 1st time which takes a lot less time anyway. Again though, to each his own.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

If you're making wrong assumptions and discounting a particular method because you haven't any experience with it, you're just limiting yourself. I wouldn't discount electrolysis, just because I haven't used it yet.

Which method of removing rust is good?
All of them.

 

Without trying to offend anyone.............. Not everyone has a sand blaster or a compressor large enough to supply enough air for a blaster. I do have a large sandblast cabinet and a large compressor to supply it. Additionally I bought another midsize cabinet that I plan to convert to a dustless setup for doing softer metals and getting smooth finishes. So I'm not someone who says that sandblasting is the wrong choice because I don't have one or can't afford one.
(Not saying thats anyone elses reason either)



That said, I also built me a large tank which I use for derusting engine parts and body panels. Sandblasting will often warp body panels or erode a hole thru already thin metal. An engine block can be submersed in it and the acid will get into every crevice and disolve the rust. I put one block in it that has a lot of rust inside the water jacket to the point of looking like rusted steel wool buildup. The block also had some writing on the side made with a Sharpie permanent marker. When I removed the block after letting it hang in there for several weeks while I worked on other things.... the sharpie writing was still there and the rust was gone.



To me its not a matter of which is best, but which fits the situation as both have their good and bad points. The wheels in question by the OP can be derusted with either option. If someone doesn't have access to a blaster, just about anyone can piece together a small tub and some acid. It probably won't help with paint removal. With the acid it takes a long time but it gets into everywhere. If your results aren't good, then you either need to make the solution stronger or wait longer. Same thing with sandblasting, the wrong choice of media will produce poor results. So its really not one process against the other, but which process will suit someones needs.

As for the wheels in this thread, they will have rust between the mating surfaces that sandblasting won't get to. Acid will get to it most likely but may not get it out. The only way to actually get the rust from between the surfaces is to disassemble the wheel and it probably isn't worth that much effort.

 

If using electrolysis, make extra sure you have your polarity correct, or you will have a nasty surprise.

 

Uh oh. Nasty surprise?
What happens, G?
'Splosion?

 

Worse.

In order to perform electrolysis, you must use a sacrificial anode in the process.

You need water and washing soda for an electrolyte, and an anode, like steel or Iron as an anode. You connect your positive there.

You connect negative to your part.

If you flip the leads, YOUR PART BECOMES THE SACRIFICAL ANODE!

Bye bye part.

 

I took a rear axle housing (empty and not concerned with warpage obviously), their minimum was $20 and that was what they charged me. Might be more than you want to spend on your wheel, but I was glad to pay it on the housing.

 

My wrong assumption was thinking everyone has (or has easy access to) a blast cabinet, large pot blaster, big compressor, etc. The gentleman below your comment reminded me of this.

Electrolysis is cool!

If I am doing a full body strip or body parts (mostly clean car, paint removal) I absolutely love to go out in the sunshine with a pair of sunglasses & a dust mask (these days know as a "face diaper") & spend hours DA stripping, but I am a sun worshiper

I will respectfully disagree with your statement that all methods are good because some just don't work as good as others & when I am putting my heart, soul & money into a project, I want the best. I don't feel I am limiting myself by choosing what works the best after 40+ years & hundreds of cars (customers & mine). I am however always open to check out new ways & products

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Bill, have you tried the new "dustless" blasting? I'm getting closer to having a body done as well as the doghouse on a pickup. Will be my first go round with it. Probably going to hire it done depending on $$$.

 

I have watched it being done & was impressed! I tried 3 years ago to get the one guy within 50 miles of me to come out here. I told him I would have at least 2 cars possibly 3 completely ready for him to do in one day. I don't know why he even bothered to advertise where car guys could see his ads, because he said very rudely that he didn't want to bother with cars because he made more money removing graffiti from building & doing other industrial stuff. There are probably more in the area now & I am sure I will try to get another one out here this summer or the next!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I have done steel wheels with a wire wheel and/or a wire cup on a die grinder, then sprayed them with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and then finish color. They have held up just fine for several years. Your wheel does not look any worse that the ones I have done.

 

What ratio of citric acid to water have you guys found works best? Also what ratio of soda to water to neutralize? Does this need to soak for a period of time or merely rinse? Best or most economical source of acid? I really like the trolling motor idea pictured for agitation. Anyone tried an engine block heater submerged in the solution?
Thanks in advance, Eddie

 

I completely agree with this. I had an ot car dipped and neutralized then baked or maybe the baking was first (it was in 93 or 94 and I'm getting a little forgetful...). The car body was painted with self etching primer and all of the other steps recommended by the paint supplier. It was back together in 96 and was never driven in winter, it was mainly used for autocrossing. by 2001 all the seams had started to rust badly, and being a small unibody car, became unsafe. I bought another shell and am still muddling around with this one as one of my retirement projects. It will NOT be getting any chemical acid or basic only media blasting or abrasive methods.

 

These threads about rust removal always seem to follow the same pattern. One guy says molasses is the only way to go, one guy claims it’s electrolysis, another says sandblasting, and so on and so on. Truth is, rust removal is not a “one size fits all”kind of deal. If I have a part small enough for the blast cabinet and blasting will get to every nook and cranny, then that’s what I use. If it’s too big for the cabinet, I’ll blast it outside with the pressure pot. On pieces where blasting will not reach everywhere, like a hood or door shell, it takes a trip through my citric acid vat. And I will say I’m always pleased with the results. I have tried electrolysis a few times, but I think it’s effectiveness is limited because it is a “line of sight” type process, in my opinion. And it’s also slow. So in a nutshell, what I’m trying to say is, don’t limit yourself by thinking your way is the only way.

 

I did a a tech thread on citric acid rust removal here a few years back im not sure how to link it, perhaps someone else can. Its the easiest cheapest way to clean the wheel posted by the OP Id guarantee. I have a pot blaster, blast cabinet, wire wheels etc. Citric acid bath is always the first step and usually all thats needed.

 

There are certain parts or circumstances where sandblasting wouldn't be a good choice.
Catastrophic, even.

 

As I said earlier I’m a reverse electrolysis kind of guy but I also sandblast and use Evaporust. I tried citric acid last summer and followed the instructions. Got about two pounds of the crystals for about six bucks at a spice and cooking shop in the neighbour hood. But I found it slow and even after leaving the parts in for about a week I thought it wasn’t the best. However, I may try it again when it warms up. But yes, different applications calls for different methods.

 

Here is your thread

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-simple-rust-removal-with-citric-acid.1136805/

 

Chemical reactions as a rule of thumb increase in rate by approximately doubling for every ten degrees Centigrade increase in temperature.

 

Would not most wheels that Hamber’s are working with be 50 plus years old and have 50 plus years of moisture and road grit already causing corrosion from inside. Sandblasting can’t reach there, so would not the best way be to remove the rim from the inner part and sandblast, paint and rivet back together..……?

 

I use electrolysis on things I don't want to sandblast. I use a thirty gallon trash can for that. But I like sandblasting best. After sandblasting I scrub in some Osphos, that kills the rust. Then rusty metal primer, then paint. Getting ready for Bonneville, you know.

 

Bill, Check your message's.

 

Wire wheels do a good job of cleaning rust off of metal...but NOT on bigger stuff, like wheels.

 

Anyone familiar with Dry Ice blasting?

 

We used to use dry ice blasting for removing multiple layers of paint build up on skid bars, pins, carrier racks, etc. used to move bodies and parts through the paint booths but never seen it used on anything other than an industrial setting. My guess is it would be cost prohibitive and likely hard to regulate so as to not distort thinner materials. It was touted as being environmentally friendly compared to the old method of burning off the paint build up.