When installing a big block, in a 55 Chevy, people say, to move the engine forward, 3/4 inch, from the stock location. 55 Chevys did not come, with big blocks, how can there be a stock location?
You can take a really big hammer and beat the firewall back the 3/4" if you think it is easier. It has been done both ways.
It's a trick, really.... The stock small block mounts were not on the side of the engine in 55. But if you make mounts to fit a later small block in the same position, using the side mounts on the block, then you can also bolt a big block to the same mounts, and the engine will fit if you bash the firewall back a bit. But if you move the mounts 3/4 " forward from where the stock small block mounts would be, then the big block will fit without bashing the firewall. If you use stock valve covers, that is.
They are talking about the stock engine location not the stock big block location. A BBC is 7" longer infront of the side mounts than an SBC and drop in on the same side mounts. I would just stuff that bugger into the engine bay as far back as possible,
I don't know...I get the engine in place with all the stuff that needs to be on it (exhaust, cooling, distributor, etc) and make the mounts so the engine fits properly. Generally on the trucks, as well as the cars, steering to exhaust clearance is an issue. But I have put a couple big blocks in the trucks in the stock location, using the original V8 type bellhousing, and making my own front mounts. With an automatic transmission, you can move the engine forward a bit.
Depending on how you view firewall modification, you have to move the big block forward and even then you have to open up the factory recess on the passenger side to clear the head. Can easily move the radiator to the I6 location in front of the core support. Our 55 Chevy has had a big block in it a couple times and its had the firewall smacked pretty good to make room.
I set the big block 3/4 forward in my 55, ran stock valve covers, and didn't have to do anything to the firewall.
Taking a ball peen to the firewall has always been my go to. I have been known to hammer transmission tunnels too. LOL I am not a restorer I am a hot rodder. The final condition of original sheet metal becomes optional when you are not thinking about restoring something to its original condition. I figure that if I have not given restoration a passing thought by now it is not going to happen.
Friend of mine put a 396 in his 55 years ago. Evidently the exhaust was hitting the steering box. He notched the frame and inset the box into it. I said why didn't you just move the engine over? Deer in the headlights look followed.
Stock wiper will work. You can buy mount to use moving the BB forward. Locate the radiator in front of the core support. Easily done on V8 rad by flipping the mounting bracket.
use the right pan...the early full size car pan, with the three steps, works ok. The later pan used in the full and midsize cars will hit the center link.
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