After getting the valves back in this 218, I found my notes from the past that I had written down. .008 and .010 hot lash. To verify I hit up Google and came across a Dodge truck site discussion on valve setting. One post had a scan of a Dodge Truck Service manual. It showed the same hot lash, but also showed cold setting at .014/.014. That seemed odd to me, it (in my mind) because it seems like the intake valve will expand more than the exhaust valve based on the manual. I would expect (assuming.004 expansion) that Dodge would have had a cold lash spec of .012/.014. If I recall, last one I did I set cold at .002 over hot lash, my friend wound up with the engine and it’s been so long he doesn’t recall if he readjusted or not. The question is why would the intake setting cold be the same as the exhaust, yet hot lash is .002 tighter than exhaust?
Good point, I don’t know. Just figured exhaust would run hotter and expand more. Just left me scratching the side of me head
The exhaust valve is the hot one. Most specs on these oldies is to adjust the valves about .002 over spec if it's going to be long trips at highway speeds. I don't remember ever seeing anything about adjusting the valves on these engines cold. What I'm used to is adjusting at full operating temperature with the engine running. That isn't my idea of fun. I have those specs and I'll look it up and get back. .008 & 010 is what most of them were.
I lay under mine while running and set them .008 and .010. although, a little loose doesn't hurt my feelings. I'd rather hear them than smell them.
Yes, .008/ .010 is why I had down from years back. I’ll show you guys what left me scratching my head. Here's the link to the following I snipped: https://p15-d24.com/topic/39909-valve-adjustment-nervous/page/2/#comments
I still have a couple burns healing from adjusting mine. I saw the p-15 sites info that called for .008in .010ex, but my factory manual called for .014 cold (both) and .010 (both) hot, and .012 for exhaust if long highspeed operation was expected. So I set at .010In, and tight .012ex. (I didn't have a .011 feeler) It doesn't make any tappet noise, and ran a touch smoother, so I was happy. To note: do yourself a favor and get some long wrenches and feeler gauge. I had some major regrets using the regular 6" stuff in my kit... I will try to post some pictures from my service manuals tomorrow when I am back home.
If you happen to come across your manual, maybe you can clarify this for me, as I look closer at what I posted above, it says cold “to set the timing”. I wonder if the intent is to just get the valves close enough to fire it up, make some adjustments and then set the hot lash? Could be why they show a “cold” setting as such? It might be written in the procedures. There won’t be access to the side covers once the engine is set in place, I’ll probably set them and fire it off, run it for awhile on the stand and reset them if needed. Most of the running time on this engine will be well under 2k RPMs until it serves its purpose.
The only specs I have is for passenger car use. The tappet clearances are a little tighter on those - .006 int and .008 exh. The truck engine is going to get a little harder use so a wider clearance makes sense. Some tuneup specs : plug gap - .025, point gap -.020, timing - TDC I don't remember if this engine used a water distribution tube for extra water flow around the exhaust ports. If so, you want to make sure it's clean and not rusted out. It's a necessary item that if not in order can cause all kinds of problems. If it has one it would go into a water passage behind the water pump. It can be pulled out for inspection or replacement with a heavy wire with a hook on one end. The tube has a slot on the top side you can snag with the wire to pull it out. Side note: In order to adjust the valves with the engine in the vehicle, you have to remove the inner fender. At some point some brainiac discovered that if they made a removable access panel on the inner fender it would make life a lot easier.
Ah yes, will have to check the tube, I’d forgot about that. TBH this engine is going into an old lift I have for the time being. It’ll be putting around out back filling up my trailer for scrap and junk runs. Heck, the rig is “traditional “ though, it’s a repurposed military airport tug from the early 50’s. Edit: That tube is behind the water pump as I recall?
>>>says cold “to set the timing”. I wonder if the intent is to just get the valves close enough to fire it up, make some adjustments and then set the hot lash?>>> The way I interpret it. You set both valves cold at 0.014". Then when the engine's warmed up, the resulting clearances should be 0.008" for intakes and 0.010" or 0.012" for exhausts. If for some reason, the hot clearances aren't as they should be, you check and set them again at 0.014" cold. .
Here is a shot from one of the manuals I have, I will dig out the other two and pull the same data. These are car specs, fwiw.
Glenn, what is your source for that spec? For performance, I would love to have my valves open as much as possible, but every factory spec I have seen far more conservative.
>>>I would love to have my valves open as much as possible>>>factory spec I have seen far more conservative>>> Agreed. Looks like you could go well below the recommended 0.014" cold clearance. But my guess is that you won't actually get --- or even feel like you actually got --- any more performance. Do you think maybe I guessed right? 8^)
Motors Auto repair Manual. '35 - '42 and experience. The Plymouth manual shown in the picture covers a different engine series. The engine specs changed in 1940. The .014" referenced is for checking the valve timing, not the ignition timing. After that is checked you set the running timing. Personally, I have never messed with checking valve timing nor do I know anyone outside the racing crowd that has. Knowing what year this engine really is would be a big help. I show that starting in 1940 there is no longer any info on the 218 engine in any of my books. I have another book somewhere that might include that engine series. If I can locate it I will see what's up. My opinion is I would stick with .008 & .o10.
So my other Plymouth printed manual also calls for .010in .010ex hot. The reproduction manual calls for .008in .010ex hot. Budget, what is the engine out of? Any Idea what year it was produced? I was working under the assumption that you have a car/ truck 23" 217.8 ci engine (217) not the Canadian 25" 218ci engine.
I’d have to get the numbers, but probably late ‘40’s early 50’s. Just to clear a few things up, I was taken aback abit when went to verify what I had written down a long time ago. And while searching I came across the cold setting and I was like “huh”? It would seem to me, if both were set at the same lash, the exhaust would expand more. Going by hot lash numbers, kinda bares that out. But when I saw the cold setting, I was wondering how the intake would expand more than the exhaust valve. Just odd in my mind
Dang, I never thought to ask @HSF what it came from, maybe I did and forgot. Harry had the head up and I saw all of the top end. I''m pleased with the engine, about the time I was going to button up the head...that little "project creep" crept in. So after doing the valves and seats I went looking for my old book I had he spec's written down on, I don't recall where I got the info, so took to google. I know how to set hot lash...heck, I told Harry he was a better man than me by crawling under his car and setting them. But as I mentioned in looking to verify what I had notes on, I came across what I put up and what @Hillbilly Werewolf posted and I thought it odd for reasons mentioned before. My query was based on if hot is .008 and .010, and cold is .014/.014, why would the intake expand to .008 and the exhaust only .010? That's all
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