Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods 40 ford headlite seal beam won,t align ........

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by putz, Feb 8, 2022.

  1. putz
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 637

    putz
    Member
    from wisc.

    chrome trim hits headlite and chrome trim won,t seat against fender , adjuster are good ,do i have drill pop rivets and repostion , any one else have this trouble ?
     
    Stogy likes this.
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,527

    alchemy
    Member

    The stock headlight doors (that's what they called the big chrome rings) aren't meant to fit the "modern" sealed beams with those three spikes sticking out. Those are for aiming with a fixture, but they weren't on the units in 1940. Carefully grind those nubs off and maybe things will fit right.
     
    Packrat, olscrounger, putz and 6 others like this.
  3. chevyfordman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,358

    chevyfordman
    Member

    I second what alchemy says, you have to work at it for that good fit.
     
    putz, Stogy and lothiandon1940 like this.
  4. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I recently swapped out my large late twenties buckets for smaller deitz style lights which take 7" sealed beams...

    Albiet your buckets are built into the fender a problem I noted on mine was the one alignment nub on the back of the bulb was fouling on the Bucket notch...I had to widen it with a snip nip and a bit of filing and the bulb then seated correctly...was it the repro bucket that was out or the nub on the bulb...don't know...is there a chance that is holding the bulb out to far in your case?

    0_Alignment Bullet (should be).jpg

    0_20210526_165858.jpg

    :rolleyes:...This pic shows the notches of which I reworked one to allow the bulb to seat with the top pic showing the rear bulb aligned with the 2 flatter areas being the pads that rest on the bucket...in my case the alignment nubs on the bulb front were not an issue...

    How did I know which notch to rework? I chose the one which allowed the 2D1 to be best centralized in the bucket...
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2022
    putz and Phil P like this.

  5. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,785

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    What alchemy said. Drake used to sell some without the knubs but you can sand them down with sandpaper and water.
     
  6. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,483

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    here is a pic of my '40 headlight,
    IMG_2219.jpg Look inside the blue lines. I used a 3/8" wide belt sander slowly and no pressure on the sander. keep the glass cool. You don't have to completely remove the lug; just grind until the headlight door fits.
     
  7. putz
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 637

    putz
    Member
    from wisc.

    thank you for all replys ......... greatly appreciated
     
    lothiandon1940 and Stogy like this.
  8. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,774

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    what they all said--carefully grind them down--have done many
     
    lothiandon1940 and Stogy like this.
  9. Mmm. screw horizontally clocked. I like them vertical...so the water runs out. :p:D
     
    Budget36 and chevyfordman like this.
  10. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,483

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I probably had them vertical, but vibration must have moved them.;)
     
    X38, chevyfordman and Stogy like this.
  11. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,346

    dwollam
    Member

    Or take them to a glass shop, auto or household type, and they can sand and polish them off. Had mine done years ago for free!

    Dave
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.