Projects Rebuilding a Flathead

My 2 cents… if you are going to put money into something, make sure it’s something you want to put money into. That money could be spent on a later 59A or 8BA engine. Get that ‘36 block cleaned up and visually check for cracks. If it looks good, get it magged. If it checks out, sell it.

it’s easy to make an offer on something that looks like a good deal, but you’ll learn it’s always worth looking into and asking on here if you’re unsure!

 

Iff'n I was you, which I'm not, and it was mine, which it's not... I'd continue on the path of cleaning, teardown (carefully!! Maybe not remove studs yet) and checking it over for cracks and other gremlins. After magnafluxing (if it is crack free) I would have it baked and cleaned as well as possible.
During this exercise, you'll learn a lot about flatheads (yours and later iterations) and also what it will or could cost you to build it the way you want it. THEN you can decide if this, or any flathead is for you. Keep in mind, IF it's a good block, crank, etc. and if it's not the direction you decide to go, the money and time you've invested will make it much easier to sell (and for a higher NON-negotiable price) if you've done your homework and have receipts to back you up. And... you can't put a price on the knowledge you'll gain. Good luck!

 

Sage advice. No one knowledge about flatheads will pay the going rate for a good block just because you think it's good. Having a receipt from the shop. Heck, get them to write on the receipt checked out good goes a long way. Having the bores measured while the work is being done is a good idea too. The more information and proof you can provide that the block is good if you decide to sell just helps you out in the long run.

 

Where are you located in VA? if it was me i would take it to Jimmy's engine Service in Lanexa VA, near Williamsburg. He is an old school shop and man does he know his stuff. A friend and Fellow HAMB member @john mullen is very near Jimmy's shop and works there with Jimmy. Check out https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/xo-pp-bonneville-project.1091049/ Johns thread on the VA Hamb Special XOPP Bonneville race truck. These guys know what they are doing and John has built more than one killer flathead.

 

I’m in Charlottesville but I’ll travel anywhere in state for the right machine shop. I’ll take a look at them. I have no idea other than ask here for how I’d find someone that can handle it and knows what they’re doing.

 

Been unable to make any real progress. How do you married guys ever finish your projects?

Anyways, I’m planning some time to do some more stripping and cleaning this weekend but I’ve learned enough to ask the group when something catches my eye. I found this sedan body on eBay and it’s fairly local to me. Any thoughts of how interested I should be on this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-Ford-...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Thanks guys

 

Looks like a bondo body. Note the inside rear shot with major wrinkles, then look at the exterior same area. Check the chop cuts inside...
You can't see the quarters, cowl and door insides enough to gauge these areas. Expect a major strip down, straightening and redo unless your plan is a scuff and flat black. Local, go look at it yourself and bring a body man's magnet.
You would have to decide what you want as an end result and if the price is worth it to you, as in any transaction.

 

$5500??? You can find better
If you look, you can find complete ModelAs for that price.
3 years ago was a 29 Model A Roadster for $4500. It was an 80s stock resto poorly stored but it was solid and probably would run....
I did not have the cash....

 

Thanks guys. I wouldn’t pay $5500 for it but the current bid is $990. I like that there has been a chop done already but I’m not sure I want to mess around with bondo removal. I’m thinking the bidding would have to not rise much more to be worth it. I’m gonna watch but will probably pass.
Also, the wife gave me a Christmas present early.
I’ve never had a toolbox before so it will be nice to not be searching the garage for the right tool all the time. Sucks a lot of your time to do that search.

 

Progress has been made. The crank and flywheel are no longer attached and I’ve removed the oil pump drive gear. Bolts for the mains and the gear cover came out super easy. There was no rope in the rear main seal furthering my suspicion that this engine was mid rebuild the last time it was touched. I think I chipped the corner off the upper rear main seal retainer as it looks like a clean fresh break. Back there also has more casting marks. It has a 36 and a triangle. See pic below.

 

I sure don't see serious rust in that engine. The bores look pretty good in the first picture even.
If the studs are okay, I wouldn't risk trying to take them out. I might run a die nut over the upper threads if the nuts don't screw on nicely.
Shame about the seal retainer damage, maybe it won't matter.

How about a picture of the pistons?

 

Here are some of a piston. It’s got the ford marking in the side of the piston and the connecting rods are numbered. There’s also a picture of the top. It’s flat and I don’t see any numbering or marking of any kind.



Also I was mistakenly looking for a rope seal in the rear but it seems mine is early enough to just be a slinger. So it seems that I’m looking for a slinger insert to replace the cracked bit I found.

 

I'd measure stuff up, could be that you could get away with a new set of rings on those pistons, hone the cylinders and call it good enough.

 

Agree ^^^, hope you kept all the rod bearings in order

 

No rear rope seal in the early engines, just the slinger in the grooved cavity. Any oil in the cavity just drained back into the pan down the tube out the bottom of the main cap.

 

I would suggest pressure testing the block before attempting to remove the studs. It's a lot of work only to find out the block is no good. Speaking from experience.

 

Agree 100%. If pressure testing is good, I recommend removing the studs in order to check if the decks are true.

You've come this far, might as well do it right. It's a lot of work pulling a motor once it's in a car, so might as well know the rebuild was done right.

 

It’s been a while but I got some small measure of success. I got the first valve out of the block. Using the Isky tool makes the bottom retainers easy but the next few top clips are all stuck. I sprayed them down and I’ll let them soak while I take the small win of the first one.