I believe that Mopar had the oil pump output/pressure figured out pretty well for their engines. One thing a lot of people don't consider is the fact that the Hemi cylinder heads don't have GIANT oil drain back holes in them. They had a tendancy to clog really easy, but on our rebuilds, that of course would never happen. The point to this being that a Whizz-Bang high volume oil pump can easil fill up the head/valve cover and not drain back quick enough...if you're pounding on it. The Hemi oiling system seems to be pretty well balanced as to what gets how much oil and when. That's the reason I've stuck with the Stock pump. I have always used mechanical gauges, and they have always shown more than adequate pressure, even when "occasionaly" pounding hell out of the engine. I never change things just for the sake of change. Only out of necessity, or for a needed improvement. Just my 2 cents
IF you have an engine that the new Melling pumps fit, I'd go OEM, vs HV, why take the risk. But @ the same time a 3% increase shouldn't flood anything. One thing that might be clouding the thought pattern is the way we talk about this. so...OEM new manufactured or NOS is 100%, 340 HV is 103%, a rebuilt pump with eroded body could result in an oil flow of as little as 75% of OEM flow.
All things cosidered, by all means, if the Stock pump is shot, then it needs to be replaced. I'd be thankful just knowing that replacements ARE available...
Ive taken apart multi-million dollar helicopters....but for some flippen reason....I cant get the nose (crank pulley hub...probably using wrong term) to come off so I can get the timing cover off....ive tried a puller with no luck....is there a trick to getting these removed?
Oh man! I know your pain!!!! Tough one! There is a thread about this here. Maybe a couple... I'll see if I can find it. I ended up carefully cutting mine off after soaking, heating, and killing two pullers. CRAZY!!
already sent a couple pullers to the scrap bin. Im assuming that these are pressed on....ive actually started cutting it....but i stopped..wanna find out the real trick and alleviate any risk of messin up the crank. I looked on here for a thread....couldnt find...will keep looking. If you can find one I would appreciate it.
No luck either. For the life of me I cannot remember how the title was phrased or who started it. I think you might be best starting a new thread asking on the topic. Then we'll link it up here and on the crank thread for good.
Yeah....thought for a long time that it was just me...would be a lot of help. Gettin on that right now
Sorry I couldn't be of more help! Maybe someone else will jump in on how they did it. You should get some response with a new thread for sure though. Probably a topic WORTH a whole thread. HAHA!
They are not pressed on. If one is really stuck then it is likely due to some corroson. Salt spray from the Winter roads? I guess that I've been lucky. I have never had one that resisted a puller. If you use heat just go easy. .
For anyone thats interested here's pics of my 270 Dodge. I won't fire it up until I get a frame. I just always wanted to build a hemi and a bunch of $$$$$$$$ later here it is. I found all the tech advice I needed on the net. I now have a '27 Dodge coupe with a Mopar 360, a '34 Ford p/u with a Mopar 383 and the Hemi is going in a '29 modified roadster
From a different thread when you were trying to get your flange off... <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by scootermcrad Cutting that flange off is sounding better and better! </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> I'd make a badass low-buck puller like the one I have. Get yourself a big fine-threaded bolt and nut (mine is 3/4-16). Get a thick piece of steel plate (~3/8 or 1/2" thick) about 6" square and drill a 3/4" hole in the center. Put the nut over the hole (use the bolt through the nut to align it) and weld it on there to stay. Now drill the bolt pattern of whatever you want to pull off (in this case the 5/16" holes of the crankshaft damper flange). My puller has several bolt patterns drilled in it from various jobs and room for lots more. In your situation, I would put the original flange retaining bolt (but without the washer so the flange will slide over it) back into the crank several turns to ensure good thread engagement. Bottom it out if you wish. Then bolt your superpuller down over the flange retaining bolt. Put a dab of grease on the end of the puller bolt and run it in. Tighten the bolt and use the nut of the puller to keep everything from turning. You will get that flange off. I have pulled marine hemi flanges off, and they make the automotive version seem like a slip-fit...
The HV 340 oil pump...Be careful..The oil pump shaft at the tappers are not radiused, 90 degree angles which weakens the shaft..Good pump but get the shaft radiused.. Pictures of my fractured shaft..New shaft before before radiused, took it to my machinest and had it radiused. Showed the factured to lots of machinest and they all agreed that the shaft was weak with the 90 degree tapper..Collar or sleeve, needed to be modified so the shaft wouldn't bind, lots of work..everything works great now.. Duane.
The ideological battle of the pump swap will continue, some like it, some don't. There are rebuild kits available for the 'early' style pump and the Melling M-50 is on the shelf. Direct bolt-on, no special parts. So, is a 340 pump really necessary? You decide. Here are some additional tid bits of oil pump info...I have also parked this in the OIL System folder. Dodge started out with what we generally consider to be the '392' pump. Chrysler started out with what is generally called the 'early style' pump. ...and then there is DeSoto... DeSoto used the design of the early pump, but, they used the 'foot' design of the Dodge. So what you have is an early style pump that will bolt on to a Dodge or a 392. Conversely, you can put a new M-50 on your DeSoto, of course the pick-up tube must be dealt with but, hey, were fabricators, right? Also, the DeSoto shaft is about 0.100" shorter than the rest so some fussing is required if you swap things around. 276-291 DeSoto on left, 331 Chrysler on right, note the casting numbers. The feet sure 'look' the same... time to get the tape out...DeSoto 331... 392... Hopefully I have been able to offer some additional confusion to the issue.. Gary
I was told to visit your site. What that has done is accepting that this motor will probably need to be gone through. The sludge in the head probably is telling me to at least pull the heads and see the lifter/camshaft area. 66k mile motor
I had to do my 392 twice... They bored the block wrong and to use my pistons which give me the right compression we sleeved every hole....It was that or spend the same amount trying to get new pistons with the right pin height...This has .020 Aries piston Crane roller cam and 4 bolt mains with Hot head aluminum heads...The block had a freeze crack and had to send it to Lock and Stitch for repair...They replaced part of the block....Great folks to work with...It has a 6% under driven 671 huffer on an old Edelbrock manifold with a pair of 750 Edelbrock carbs...The rods had the beams polished and shot peened with ARP bolts and .990 wristpins...It has Chrysler 300 adjustable rockers...It also has a gear drive instead of a timing chain
Yeah, that picture is very typical of a 50's engine that had non-detergent oil and infrequent oil changes. If the engine runs half-decent then you could start a flush-n-drive programme but, if you want a fresh engine then expect to spend some money.
One thing I did find with my 270 Hemi was the oil holes in the rockers, shafts and stands had almost petrified. They did not clean out with conventional cleaning, I had to drill them out to clean them
The Jalopy Journal
