Technical Y Block 312 Issue

Long story short, my brother bought a 57 Ford out of a car collection that hadn’t run in over ten years. The sellers son replaced the tank prior to us picking up the car. The car broke down once it got up to temperature several times, so we have replaced the carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filters, mechanical pump, and now we have switched to an electric pump. All fuel lines have been rerouted, so there is no chance of vapor lock. The car will run at idle with no issues. Once it starts to drive, it will make a mile, maybe two, then stall.
I realize all of this is vague, but are we missing something simple? At idle in park, the carburetor is pumping plenty of fuel. Any of thoughts?

 

Your tank breather isn’t slightly blocked is it ,causing a vacuum in the fuel system is it?

 

I had kind of the same issue with a 58 Edsel. It turned out to be the outlet from the tank itself. Corroded with 63 years of rust and sludge the outlet hole had the diameter of a finishing nail. Enough to keep it idling and light driving, once you accelerated up a hill it would drain the bowls and stall. I didnt have to replace the tank I just cleaned it out and after that it ran great.

 

Does it have a vented gas cap?

 

You may need a vented cap on the gas tank, it may have been changed to a non vented cap at some time by accident. Try driving the car with the gas cap loose and see if it makes a difference. If it works OK with the cap loose you need a vented gas cap.

 

The tank is vented from the factory. The tube comes out from the upper left side of the tank and snakes around the taillight panel then exits through the left side wheel well area. Blow some air through it, it could be plugged.

 

Seams to me the gas might be boiling in the carb. The Yblock has A exhaust port to the carb for cold weather.if you run headers or the flapper on the stock manifold dosnt work its hot all the time. I plugged it off on My 292 no problems.

 

Have you checked any of the ignition? Sounds a lot like a coil problem to me.

 

Yes or condenser.

 

Ditto: coil or condenser.

 

The old saw went "90% of carburetor problems are ignition related." Always check for good spark first unless there is good reason otherwise. Keep a spare plug with you, the next time it fails on the road or wherever pull a plug wire and ground the plug and see if there is a good spark.

 

Yes the fill tube has a vent on it not the cap, bugs like to nest in them and plug them up. If you really think its fuel related take the air cleaner off and go drive it till it dies, jump out with the hood open and wick the throttle several times and see if the squirters are shooting fuel. End of question as to what it is then fix the Ign.

 

What does it take to get it re-started and driving?

 

Coil has been replaced. Tomorrow it’s getting a complete tune up. We also picked up a vented cap, but it didn’t seem to make a difference.

 

Did you replace the rubber fuel lines also?

 

Fuel starvation is definitely a possibility, but with a new fuel tank and system components it's a lot less likely.

Is it running a points & condenser ignition? Sourcing good condensers is tough. Avoid like the plague the el-cheapo no name ignition parts. Grab an old Autolite or Motorcraft condenser out of your junkbox and try that. Even there, the problem with ignition condensers is they can go defective just sitting on the shelf. Ford sold ignition condensers at the dealers until very recently.

 

Might not be your problem, but back in the day my cousin had an International truck that would quit at odd times ! Like to have drive him crazy! Then he figured out that the truck had a tendency to quit when the fuel tank was close to empty, more often!
He finally found that the pick up tube was real close to the bottom of the tank and would seal off , more often when there was less fuel in the tank! He pulled the pick up tube, cut 1/2 inch off it……no more problem! Might not be your problem, but you did say you had a new tank…….








Bones