Technical Ford torque tube driveshaft issue

Hi,
This is the transmission side of a 1934 driveshaft, I plan on cutting it down to fit my 32. The bearing surface is done on this one. Will the transmission side of a later year be the same dimensions?

 

As far as the bearing surface, yes.

 

Looking at pictures, I might need a 35 or 36 to fit the driveshaft tube?

 

Yes get the front off a 35/6 drive shaft

 

I believe the front of a 35-36 is slightly larger. It will cut on a lathe, but its pretty hard. I made a bushing that fit the tube, and pressed in the front of a solid later shaft and welded it up. only 5k miles on it, but ok so far. the trick is to keep it straight, things move around after welding.

 

Two videos shortening a torq tube





Nick

 

Here's a pic of my home made front spline section, and a stock 32-34 front spline cut off. The best way to do this is start with a new chunk of 4130 tube, and a 6/10 adapter from vanpelts for the rear. The adapter fits the tube (32-34 size) and allows you to use the later 6 spline pinion shaft, much more common. Then for the front, if you can find a good original, good for you, I have 5 34 drive shafts...none good enough to use, so I made the front as I stated. As for the poster above, yes, they all take the same front bearing, 28-48, and to fill the grease cavity at the u joint, you remove the speedo turtle and pump thru the zerk on the clam shell until you see it filling up in the turtle hole. pump it full

 

Thank you Rusty, I had the same thought about building a plug for the later end. So you did not use the original 34 ford tube? I was planning on using a late 32 to 34 axle so would keep the 10 spline at the one end. Is it a bad idea to use the 32 to 34 rearend?

 

I did use the 34 tube, I made two at once, and one tube was badly rust pitted which caused a balance problem. I have a long thread about this on the barn, I will look for it later. So, is it a bad idea to use the 32-34 rear? up to you. They do get stronger as the years go by, and the 35 to 40 rear is about 3/4" wider per side, gives some room for bigger tires. 35 and up uses a longer spring mount on the axle for the straight spring. 32-34 has the curved spring. there are several ways around that, I dont know really what you are trying to build. in the photo, on the left, is a 32 to 34, smaller pinion bearings, narrower housing so on those axles fit, the center is a 35 to??? not sure, but now we have the bigger pinion bearings, wider housing, more common axes. on the right, is a late center, 42ish and up, note the extra web to support the rear pinion bearing, so stronger. It seems to me, that rear bearing is the weak point, most old rears I tear down have failed there. So is it a bad Idea to use the early rear? well, its been done for ever, how do you drive, big motor, some factors to consider. I like the 35 to 40's myself.

 

Building a 32 roadster, no fenders, original chassis and transmission with a 1957 283. Chassis currently has the early 32 axle, which is not the best. I have a late 32 axle and tube with no driveshaft and also a set of 3.78 gears for it. I have had a few recommendations to drop the 32-34 axle and pick up a 1940.

 

This car is being built to cruise around town and I know I will have to respect it. I also have a NOS set of safety hubs for it.

 

here's the old thread with all the trauma I had when building two.
long read, in the end cory taulbert chimes in with how he builds them, I agree with him, start with new parts. I think in this thread there is also instructions on how to straighten the male end. I had a lathe at the time that was long enough to use for checking for true after it welded. I know we hear stories of guys that lay everything in a piece of angle iron and weld it all up with no problems, but I'm not so sure I like that idea! https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238891