Hot Rods Is this a Brookville roadster pickup? Update: NO. Now building 1929 roadbriolet/cabrioster pickup

^^That's the one I normally use.
I'll use it when decide on final location. They did great when they added the locator hole.

 

Well, I gave up on the 2 and 10 pound brake line check valves that came on the truck from Jegs I believe.
Dang things refused to stop leaking!
I ordered two new ones from Summit WITH FITTINGS. The Jegs stuff seemed to be a mixture of metric and normal... I think that could be the problem but don't care at this point. Those boys are going in the trash can!
New stuff is on the way.
The 32 taillights and stands should be here today or tomorrow. Then I can have taillights with or without the bed.
I did manage to get it to idle with a bit more tweaking of the timing. Very happy about that!
Waiting on parts... might be good time to study that bed situation some more.
It seemed too high before and had some fabricated supplements attached to the bottom of the normal bed flanges.

I'm thinking that bottom flange isn't necessary but suspect it was added to keep from having to raise the inside(floor) of the bed... opportunities! Also, I'd like to move the bottom of the bed closer to the cab. It is half inch at top and two plus inches at the bottom... kills the flow of the body lines in my opinion. It makes the truck look like more of a conglomeration of parts bolted together rather than a thought out; planned construction.
How it looks will matter a whole lot more AFTER I drive it around the block!
Then I'll start working on the wheels and tires. Front tires are fine and I wouldn't mind running those rollers on the back in the short run (and on DRY pavement!) but don't have any steel wheels to accommodate those 13.5" tires so I'm stuck with what I've got at the moment. I'll get some safer tires and more appropriate rims if I decide to make it somewhat of a driver... it is cute! And sounds wicked!

 

With only half an inch to work with at the top of the bed, it might be easier to fab up a filler panel to smooth out that cab to bed transition. I know that you'll figure it out and make it look right, Al...Opportunities.

 

Don, that's a great idea!
Thanks.
Only problem is it will not help to grant me any relief at the end of the bed where it presently covers the gas filler!
I was thinking that if I moved the cab a couple inches forward and the bed a couple inches... might clear the gas filler. I'm on the fence about seriously trying to move the cab forward as doing so gets exponentially complicated on a completely boxed frame. I'm not sure I see me keeping this for the long run. The jury will stay out until it is running well and on the road! If it is fun to drive it might have to stay awhile.
Opportunities!

 

Thanks for the details AL! Now that I have seen it I think I like the style Beanskoot pictured a little better. I would typically mount the switch on a bulkhead and I like the wires to be out of site. What I liked about the marine type was it's clear label for the on/off position. Most of the switches I have seen do not have clear labeling.
Those brake valves you are talking about gave me some problems initially on my project until I figured out that you have to use an adapter to fit them to brake line fittings. I don't know why they just don't manufacture them to fit brake lines .

 

It looks like they did some practicing on where to locate the seats.
That floor has to go. I got two 1/8" sheets today to replace the floor. It will take some careful fitting and will likely need a little added support from underneath here and there but we have the whole depth of the old wood floor to work with as I plan to considerably overlay the area covered by the wood. The hole is 26" wide and the front floor piece is 32" wide and the back one is 34". The truck came with a floor pattern for making another floor out of plywood but I prefer the steel. I cut a new hole at the back of the cab for the temporary battery cable.
Package tracking says I should get the taillights and the brake check valves tomorrow.
I'll get a picture of the new floor as it comes together... I hope!
I also tidied up the wiring underneath considerably today.

 

Back piece sitting in place.

Before somebody starts hollering, I did insulate the temporary battery cable with a piece of hose and taped the hose to the cable.

I also put a light coat of paint on the radiator... I hope that helps hide the fact that the radiator is not an exact fit for the 29 grille shell.
I'm continuing to fabricate the rest of the floor and also decided I didn't want to use that Lokar shifter... it is not mounted as it should be and uses some non-Lokar parts. It's on there but doesn't feel right in operation. I don't want any future headaches so ordered a B&M cable unit. That will make fabricating the floor easier... I hope!
Thanks for the continued interest and help.
Back to the garage.

 

Here's the progress so far on fabricating the front floor piece. I'm about 5.5" from firewall.
I've got to cut a notch for the brake pedal and the steering column; then hopefully it will be close.
I do like the way the preformed tunnel that came with the car fits the cutout I made in the new floor... looks pretty professional for me!!

It looks like I'm also going to have to trim the front corners just a bit at an angle. I sure thought there was 32" across up there but I was focused on getting maximum overlap of the original hole which seems very good.
I also measured across the transmission... another rookie mistake!
Close is fine... until you get down to the final fitment!
Opportunities!
Did get the taillights and stands but no brake check valves. Working taillights tomorrow maybe.
The shifter should be in tomorrow, too.

 

Mostly complete... finally! I think I am going to have to put the insert on top of the floor to gain just a bit more clearance... dang transmission is right there!! Everything seems to be very close.
Now to remove and bend the brake pedal just a little to the right.
Began installing taillights... another opportunity!! I think the vendors of the chassis, the spreader bar, and the taillight stands went to an awful lot of trouble to ensure that they were all drilled at slightly different centers!!
Rat tail file getting a workout!
They WILL fit... I just am not sure when!
No brake check valves... yet!
Now to start figuring out where to place the new floor shifter.

 

I got s_ _ _ ; I mean "stuff" from Summit!! Look at these fittings that could cost you your life! Well, maybe not your life; just your vehicle and whatever or whoever you hit.


The first two fittings had visible metal shavings in at least one of them. The top one of the second two fittings still had some metal flashing right in the flow area... the picture is a bit fuzzy but you can see it.
The other ends of at least two of the fittings had flash in the flow area and shavings as well!
Dang! I'm really disappointed in Summit.
Anyway, I post this so y'all won't just open the nice bag and start screwing the pieces together. Your new parts might be like my defective ones!
So I spent a lot of time carefully removing the metal flash and shavings and decided to put them on with teflon to help ensure a good seal. My plan went well until I started the first end of the 10 lb check valve and I, you guessed it... stripped the thread on the check valve! The first check valve screwed all the way in so I expected the second one to do the same. Teflon, as we all know, tends to disguise the amount of resistance.
Now what?! I'll pull the leaking 10 lb valve off the car and try to put my newly cleaned and fixed fittings in that check valve. I'll use teflon again but hopefully not as tight!
On a positive note, I did manage to file the chassis and spreader bar taillight mounting holes enough to get one light mounted.
BTW, I decided to make sure I inserted the wires for the second taillight through the stands BEFORE I bolted them on... don't ask me why. I did take passenger side apart and verified that the taillight mounting holes on that side are off just as much as on the driver's side!
Tomorrow is another day... hopefully, a better one.
PS Better check your purchases from Summit.

 

Opinion: I would not use tephlon tape on anything but galvanized pipe thread.
If you need a thread lube, I'd use never seize. If it leaks it's because the flairs are not sealing. Tape will not repair bad threads or flairs.
Just an opinion.

 

Is this the residual valve that you need?
https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_combined_results.asp?search_prod=(searchlike~p.sku~residual|Or|searchlike~ p.nm~residual|Or|searchlike~ p.ds~residual|Or|searchlike~ p.search_terms~residual|Or|searchlike~ p.child_rollup_search_terms~residual)|And|(searchlike~p.sku~valve|Or|searchlike~ p.nm~valve|Or|searchlike~ p.ds~valve|Or|searchlike~ p.search_terms~valve|Or|searchlike~ p.child_rollup_search_terms~valve)&search_keyword=residual valve

 

I used to use teflon tape a lot but since finding this Leak Lock stuff I have switched and have been getting excellent results. Teflon just does not seem to do well on brake fittings. Sorry for your problems with the fittings. Seems like Summit should train their order fillers to take a quick look at the product they are sending out....

 

Sadly, Quality Control is a thing that we fondly remember from the past.

 

I have not used teflon tape, or anything else, on brake lines in the past that I remember.
Teflon was already on many of the fittings on this truck when I got it so I assumed (I should have known!) it was acceptable practice.
I'm getting pretty old to still be making rookie mistakes. I also realized there in no proportioning valve on the rear brakes. I'll have to address that as well.
Oh well, finishing the truck to make it driveable is giving me an excuse to keep working with my wrenches... and that dang rat tail file!
Thanks for sharing your insight and what you have found to work. I'll look into the Leak Lock.
Today is a new day.

 

When the situation calls for Teflon, I use the liquid Teflon in the tube. It is far easier to work with especially if you have a little grease or oil or just grime on your fingers. The Teflon tape tends to drive me crazy and that's a short drive.

 

Don, I think I have some liquid Teflon in a tube... somewhere!!
The last full brake job I did was on the 36 Fordy which I have been driving for over ten years!
It will eventually come together... I hope!
PS I know what you mean about that dang Teflon tape slipping when you are trying to use it.
I think all of us have been there.

 

This is why I refrain from cutting and reflaring brake lines. Notice at 12 o'clock it is missing some of the flare and it looks like it cracked there as well. Stick with factory lengths and put an extra bend here and there. I'm sure some of y'all have done it for years and years with great success but those of us doing brakes once in a blue moon should stick to factory lengths in my humble, and most safe, opinion.
Hopefully the front brakes are squared away now... I'll know later.
Also took the steering apart to research more clearance for brake pedal and wiring and still not hit anything!
Sorting out this wiring seems to be a never ending opportunity.
Why do you run two "running light" wires to the rear of the truck? Makes no sense to me but I have research each before I start eliminating the extra wire. I'm thankful that there is another wire that was run for a third brake light I believe. I plan to use that at some point.
I rechecked the front floor and discovered we need a bit more clearance for the brake pedal and a body mount bolt.
Got the passenger side taillight on. Then looked at it and realized it was at a different angle than the driver's side! A few adjustments and now they look like they match to me. I didn't even think to look when I was first getting it mounted. I think it was because I was worn out from the rat tail file.

 

I use lengths of Nickel-Copper for brake lines whenever possible. I use the pre-terminated ones with fitting already on it. So easy to work with.

 

Now the cab is sitting square on the chassis and not over a quarter inch off at the rear corners.
And both doors now open and close... a new feature on the passenger side!
Some of those frame mounting nuts I think are on the edge of failing but I've got it reasonably secured.
I also added the needed clearance to the front floor for the brake and two body mount bolts.
Tired Al

 

A good round of ice cream would probably revive you, Al.

 

Al, too much ice cream and that cabs gonna get cramped!

 

How did y'all know I took the Madam to the ice cream parlor?!
That coconut chocolate almond is great!! She keeps getting something called rocky road... and tells me to tell the server to just put a little ice cream in her cone. Of course, I say nothing and then proceed to eat the excess off her cone before I take it to her! Works for me.
I might have an evening session in the garage!
Still tired... but happy! Al

 

I found and replaced three or more hand flared brake lines while redoing the brakes on both ends. The rear got all new lines back to the rubber hose that goes to the rearend. I cleaned and checked the original 10 pound check valve that came on the car and used it. I also replaced the pressure brake light switch which looked damaged by a cutoff wheel.
I also chose the line lengths such that I have a coupling located where I plan to locate a variable rear brake proportioning valve when I get one. Actually planning ahead... successfully, I hope!
Now to entice a helper with ice cream to help bleed the brakes.
Still working Al

 

We got brakes! Now I need a stronger spring to return the pedal! I've also got to get under it to make sure there are no leaks. We found one when we first started to bleed the brakes; fixed it, and continued.
Now I have brakes and no steering! Don't have any way to shift the transmission either!
Opportunities!!

 

The shifter is mounted to the floor. I managed to keep the mounting points off the front floorboard piece.
Now to run it up and see about attaching cable to the transmission... and double check for leaks in the brake lines! Also found out that while the driver's door will open wide and the mirror doesn't hit the cowl; it is not quite the same on the passenger side! Don't ask how I know!

 

Cable is run and transmission shifts! We also notched the front floorboard to clear the shift cable so front can be removed without disturbing the shifter.
Bert helped cut small section off bottom of firewall to allow a little more adjustment in locating the steering column... and clear the brake pedal!
We got close to hooking up the steering but needs further study to ensure appropriate clearance all around.
Thanks for your interest and help.

 

In studying the steering, I think it might be possible to eliminate one universal joint and the related heim bearing and bracket that kept it secure.
More study required and have to really finalize location of steering column to complete an accurate analysis.
It would have been too easy to just shorten one or two of the existing shafts and leave it as it was.
Maybe... maybe not!

 

Well, it misses everything! I removed a bit more of the firewall in order to move the column up and out just a little; trying to get as clean a shot as possible to the steering box and also lessen the angle of the universal joint at the bottom of the steering column. I then relocated the column up and out and drilled one hole in the bracket to secure it... I'll brace it a bit more later.
I found a longer double D steering shaft in my pile of treasures and after measuring it MORE than twice; cut it off and just managed to squeek it into both universals... after loosening the steering column.
Tightened it all back up and is pictured above.
Now to focus on rerouting, and in some cases, redoing the wiring and cleaning it up for final completion. Of course, now I'm pondering introducing big connection plugs to the wiring such that I can simply unplug all wires going from the cab to the chassis; leaving both components fully wired. The dang cab only has six bolts holding the cab on at the moment. I'm thinking removing the cab would be a tremendous help in painting both the chassis and the cab. Another opportunity to ponder!
For now, the challenge is to get all the wiring wrapped up and safe for a potential test drive!
Back to the garage.
BTW, I'm amazed that our thread has exceeded 10,000 views!
Thanks for your interest and help.
Probably ought to include adding a license plate as well. At one time, my "test block" in the neighborhood included a state trooper and the town's Chief of Police who was later elected Sheriff of the whole county.
They usually smile and wave as I go by in one of my contraptions.
Gotta love a small town that has been here since 1752... and has great ice cream!

 

..............Sounds like what Heaven must be like.