so hi and thanks for any and all advice in advance. i'm working on a 1956 ford ranch wagon its the 2 door base model i believe it was called the mainline, which is just what i wanted to do after i got a hard look at it but i'm in so.... working on the front end, taking it apart and looking at the shop manual, there is a spreader tool that they used to well, spread the top and bottom ball joints. i guess i could fashion something to do that but i was thinking is there a problem with putting a jack under the a arm, loosening the ball joints and using a pickle fork? the springs look pretty mean, is there a good way to remove them? thanks
When I pull apart a coil spring front end I lift the car and remove the wheels, place my floor jack below the lower control arm about 2 ", loosen the lower ball joint nut but leave it on, then smack the lower control arm with my Oldsmobile hammer. They pop right apart. Then raise the jack, remove the nut and lower the jack and the spring should roll right out.
I have used the spreader tool, and they are available from Thunderbird parts suppliers. You are warned to not just use the tool, but also use a hammer once the tool has applied sufficient pressure on both ball joints. If you don't also use a hammer, the tool can mushroom, possibly causing damage to the ball-joint stud threads. Hill's Thunderbird has the tool, part # 3049-T, should be less than $20. Using a hammer, alone, didn't work for me. Although I used a floor jack and stands, I could not lower the lower control arms enough for the springs to clear, without moving the brake drums out of the way. Once the spindle is free of the upper ball joint, try pulling it downward, thereby rotating the brake drum to horizontal. You can use a spring compressor, but I've seen compressed springs fly out. I ran a chain through and around each spring and around the lower control arm to prevent that from happening. If you intend to replace the springs with Aerostar springs, they are shorter, thereby making installation easier. A pickle fork will damage the ball joint seals; not a problem if you intend to replace them. It very possible that your ball joints are okay. Replacements, unless NOS, will be made off-shore. Do one side at a time, using the other side as a guide. The 1956 Ford Service Manual is very helpful.
thanks for the reply blacktie. i did find that tool and ordered one. it was 16 bucks plus shipping. i do have the shop manual as well thanks
When I did my 55 the lower ball joint came free very easily, loosened the nut a few threads then hit the steering knuckle with a hammer. Didn't undo the upper ball joint at all, lowered the lower control arm with the jack and spring came right out without any drama. Aerostar springs went right in without the need of the floor jack, they were considerably shorter than the stockers. Didn't need a spring compressor at all. Lowered my car by 3 1/2 inches. This was after installing a 302 and a C4 which weighed about 230 pounds less than the stock Y Block / Fordomatic combination. I didn't expect the springs to produce quite that much drop.
I've found that a good air hammer with a flat tip loosens ball joint tapers quite well. Just hammer on the side of the taper hole.
A pickle fork will tear the rubber boot every time. If you use the spreader tool then totally remove the stock castle nut and replace it upside down. Install it only until flush with the top of the ball stud. This will keep you from damaging either stud or nut. I don't think anyone has mentioned to totally remove the shocks. I know a guy that left them in to keep things from flying apart. He couldn't get the tapper to brake loose after beating the beans out of things. Well that was because the shock was totally extended and holding tension.
I do the same procedure as Bandit Billy and nosford mention. I haven’t used my pickle fork in years. As mentioned, it just tears the boot and usually frustrates me. Smacking the spindle pretty much always works for me. That’s how I did my 56 to install the Aerostar springs.
hey ya'll sorry it took so long to repost , thanks for the replies and advice. i haven't had time to do much of anything on the car but i'm heading down to the shop now to try the good old hammer on the a arm trick. i did order that spreader tool but have yet to see it. just a couple questions. is there a supplier for the front cross member? i know there has been past posts about a fab company, family owned, the name escapes me but no matter they are out of business. there is a message number but its no good. also, what are the aerostar springs everyone seems to be using? is there a vendor for them that someone can supply? thanks
I did front end work daily for about 7 years. My favorite ball joint tool was a BFH. I would use the pickle fork if I had a stubborn one. But kiss the boots adios.
Moog makes the Aerostar springs. You should be able to order them from Napa, but mine came from Summit. They aren't expensive. Of course, you want the Aerostar front springs.
Moog part no. CC850. They've gone up in price, but less than $100/pr. Amazon has them/w free shipping. RockAuto has several brands, the cheapest of which is AC Delco. I don't know that one brand is better than another. You can compare specs at RockAuto.
I’m surprised nosford got that much drop, it’s more than usually reported. But they’re a progressive wind, and get stiffer, so bottoming out might not problem. There’s spacer listed on the Mustang sites that are the right diameter, so it’s fairly easy to lift that a bit if needed. I love them on my bird, been 10 years now.
just an update. found a company in pa called tee-bird products. they have the cross member for $425. i received it today and it seems pretty nice but i have only just unpacked it. it took a few weeks for them to get it as it was back ordered. i gave them my number and they called me when they received it. i had id 4days later.
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