Technical Mystery clutch

Hello all,
I have an old Willys franken-truck I inherited from my Dad. It has a hydraulic clutch of which the slave cylinder now leaks so bad it actually squirts out every time you press the clutch pedal. So I need to figure out what the clutch hydraulic system is out of so I can fix/replace the cylinder.

As I said this is a franken-truck. The bed and frame are one year and the cab is the next year (I don't recall the years off the top of my head), I was told this was done to make room for the Chevy I6 230. The engine came out of (according to the engine #) a 1966 G10, which as far as I can find never came with a hydraulic clutch.

Whatever the clutch cylinder came out of was almost certainly from Detroit, likely GM, pre 1978 because I know the truck was running with these parts by then. The cylinder mounting was custom fabricated. One oddity that might ring a bell is that the clutch has a very sharp engagement, i.e. the portion of the pedal stroke in which you go from no engagement to full engagement of the clutch is really short.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how to go about tracking down what the cylinder is out of?

Does anyone know when hydraulic clutches came into widespread use in US vehicles?

Does anyone know which makes/models it might be out of?

Any markings/numbers etc. I can look for?

Thanks

 

The crew here can identify almost anything... with a picture.

 

does it look like this? early 60's chevy truck.

 

I included a picture of the master as they might be related.

 

Single mounting ear.

 

maybe you could remove the slave cylinder, and take some more pictures, so we can see it...it's really hard to tell where the housing leaves off, and the mounting bracket begins.

And like he said, the first thing to do is pull it apart and look at the seals, if it has a normal cup in it then you can probably find that at an old auto parts store.

 

Yeah, I was trying to get a jump on things. I am currently using the truck to get in firewood for the winter and so can't really be taking it apart. I was hoping if I could get a start on figuring out what it is from then I could start doing research re: replacement if it is too bad to hone, etc.

Looks like for now I will just have to keep pouring fluid in the master and/or driving without the clutch. Not the first time for either .

 

If in the meantime anyone has a brain storm I'll check back from time to time.
Thanks everyone for taking a look.

 

Looking at the picture of the slave would not think that it would take that long to whip it off take a picture, check for any numbers and put it back.

 

Looks similar to a Ford F100 1957 thru 1960 clutch slave cylinder.

 

good call...sure does.

 

As for the "abrupt" clutch engagement, take a good look into the clutch housing and see if the disk, flywheel and/or pressure plate show any signs of oil or hydraulic fluid contamination.

 

Thanks. I'll check and see which side the bleeder is on relative to the port and if it has that long mounting ear.

Part of the reason I am hesitant to disturb it is that I am concerned I may damage the line in removing it and then I am into a whole new problem. Firewood must take priority, the last thing I need right now is cascading repairs.

Normally that would be my first reaction as well but it has been that way for ever. You can actually feel the clutch over-center in the pedal, both engage and disengage.

BTW, @squirrel Thank you for your post on IDing I6 chevy engines. It gave me the info to id this engine as well as another I have sitting in my barn.

 

I think we have a winner. The bleed screw is on the same side and now that I have an idea of what I am looking at the mounting ear looks the same as well. Once I have a chance to take it off, clean it up and get better pictures/measurements I'll post them for confirmation, but for now I am going to call this one probably solved.

 

It occurred to me that you all might like seeing some pics of the truck. Not a show truck by any means. Original idea was to use it until the bed rotted out than replace it with a flat bed, only the bed never rotted out!

 

Finally got a chance to replace the slave cylinder. The attached pic is of the old one (top) and the new one. As you can see the mounting holes line up. I had checked the bore size before I bought it. I was going to post a second pic showing the body is the same length but the battery in my camera died first.

I chose to just replace it rather than hone out the old one because I only have a flexible small cylinder hone and the depth of the pitting was going to take far longer to hone out than the cost of a new one.

So thank you again to all who looked and helped identify it.

On a related note...
I have several other bits of stuff (some fenders and some glass) that I think you all might be able to tell me what it is from but I don't want to presume on the good will of the board so rather than just posting pics I thought I would ask if it is alright to do so first. If I knew what they were I might be able to find someone that wants them.

 

It's usually ok to do that. And....you can probably figure out a lot of it yourself, if you spend some time using google images search, to find pictures of cars that you think the parts might fit. Then compare details, see if you were right. If not, keep trying other cars.

 

Glad to see you have got it sort and thanks for lettings us who posted know.