My starter was becoming inconsistent. I must have pulled 100 Chevy starters in my life but I guess the oldest was my '58 Impala, because after crawling under there with a 9/16 socket, extension and ratchet, realized it's not held on that way! So anyway, looks like the typical flip the solenoid washer deal, but the brushes are pretty well worn. I'm seeing many different listings for years and models, are all brushes of this shape the same?
55-70 or so they're all the same, according to the Chevy parts book (I only looked in the older books, they might go later). The earlier 6v starters use a different brush.
I'm not for certain, but I think they were the same all the way up to the mid 90's when they switched to the gear reduction starter's in everything.
between 1955 and 1985 there were 2 common sizes. past that, and for some odd stuff there was more part numbers. I guess the answer to your question is no, they're not all the same. '75 and older are all the same according to the listing I just looked at.
rock auto says the RX60 brushes fit chevys from 1941-1995. There were some different ones in later years, so measure....1/4" thick, 3/4" wide
Isn't it great to be able to clean up the commutator and install new brushes all for less than probably $10.00 and you're back on the road!
I was surprised how good the commutator looked, really not worn much at all. The brushes, you may recall, swing on pins, a pin for each pair of brushes. One brush on each pin was worn more than the other. Not much more, but if all four were even I'd have probably skipped it. Wonder why, I'll pay attention to the spring pressure when I reassemble. Yeah, under 10 bucks delivered.
I expect it has to do with which way the armature rotates.....and the loading on the brushes being a function of where the pivot pin is, relative to the brush and the rotation direction. If they're worn out, they need to be replaced. If they're not worn out, you could leave them, or replace them. Check the bushings for wear, too.
I'd say it has more to do with spring tension. I think that is the same starter as I have for my Truck bellhousing for my 48. I think I have rebuilt that one twice since 1989. O'Reilly's shows the brushes Standard ign RX 60 Plus the bushings STD X4349 for the drive end. Opps it was pointed out that I had a typo on the drive end bushing and that it is X4349 that I have confirmed. either X5405 inside Diameter (in): 9/16 Inch Outside Diameter (in): 11/16 Inch Length (in): 13/16 Inch or X4378 Inside Diameter (in): 9/16 Inch Outside Diameter (in): 5/8 Inch Length (in): 11/16 Inch I honestly didn't know that they had 2 different OD on the commutator end. I've probably rebuilt 100 Delco starters over the years and that is new to me.
I'll have a look at which side of the pin the worn brushes are on but away for the weekend. Thinking about how and why they changed the mounting and solenoid. This seems stronger than the two vertical bolt mounting but does not allow for easy shimming. The newer style also encloses the solenoid linkage eliminating the rubber boot, which I have also ordered.
Got the new brushes in today. As you can see from the old ones, the two worn brushes are on the same side of their pivots, whatever that means. Thanks again for the help.
I read somewhere, "undercutting" the mica segments is a generator thing, and doesn't apply (or isn't needed) on starters. Cleaning the commutator, yes. I would assume sanding the brushes so they conform to the shape of the commutator is a thing too. When you're all done, you can measure the current draw of the whole shootin' match during engine crank. I think defective starters can cause more trouble than people realize, because they hog all the battery current at the exact point it's needed for a good hot spark at the plugs.
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