Hello. I have enjoyed the forum for a while now and finally decided to sign up. I have a 1940 Ford tudor standard that I've owned for 30 years. I have been running a 1950 8BA flathead in stock form for that time. I decided it was time to freshen her up a little. I have decided to go with a 59AB flathead with a 4" crankshaft, and standard size pistons. I am going to go with Offenhauser heads (stock compression) and 2 carb intake. My question is what camshaft do I want to use. I am looking at the Isky Max 1. I have been told that this cam requires you to use the 8BA front cover and distributor. I would prefer to stay with the 59AB front cover for looks. I am not looking for a fire breather, I want something that I can cruise 100 miles on a Saturday and have good reliability. Thanks
I run an Isky Max-1 in my '40 Ford. Very happy with it. And it still has the stock '40 Ford front cover and distributor.
Between the 1007B and the max1, are there any advantages for one over the other? Will the valve lift on both work on the Offenhauser heads (again stock compression)? Would I have to index the camshaft for trimming? Sorry for all the questions but I’m new to rebuilding an engine in anything but stock form.
Have just what u need. Stock appearing cam(approx .028-.030 more lift) factory ford. Intake valve opens sooner that stocker and stay open about same as stocker. Stock lift is .292, this cam lift approx .320 Ford felt it necessary to upgrade their everyday cam and this is it!!! . Could send you a pic but you won’t see any difference from a stone stocker. The micrometer is the decider! John in s.Texas
I had my stock 59 A-B cam re-ground to a Mercury 8CM to go with the 4” crank. I’m very happy with it for a regular driver.
I am doing a 59 with the 1007B . MY block was factory relieved , .080 over bored and stroke. The bore should have raised compression slightly but the relief dropped it more and I asked Pete1 for his recommendation. It was the 1007B. I wish I could report the performance, but I won't have the truck running until next summer. I don't have my cam spec card at the moment ( put away for safe keeping) , but duration is slightly more than stock Merc and lift is around .350" . I'd go with Pete's call.
Unless you have got a good reason not to, I'd go back and reconsider the whole build. The two best ways to increase power in a flathead are increasing displacement and increasing compression. I would consider an overbore of at least .125 (to 3 5/16) with the 4" stroke (yielding 276 cubic inches) while increasing compression in the process. Then you should consider reworking the heads to give a consistent .045-.050" clearance over the piston crown. This will increase squish and also further increase compression. The only thing I will mention about camshafts is don't go to wild as a '40 tudor is a relatively heavy car and you want torque for drivability rather than high speed horsepower. Unless you're planning on running with no hood, think about using a small 4 BBL carb (early 4G, WCFB, or maybe a 390 Holley) or even a small base Rochester 2G rather than multiples. I make these recommendations out of consideration for practical drivability, rather than all out performance.
Highly recommend “KiWi-L100” loved world wide. Especially with the great engine combo your building. What ever your choice. Enjoy the build.