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Technical AV8 crossmember question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Ben Chirco, Jul 16, 2021.

  1. Ben Chirco
    Joined: Oct 21, 2019
    Posts: 206

    Ben Chirco
    Member

    I am buying parts for my AV8 build. It's a 1930 tudor. I have the 1952 flathead, I have a toploader transmission. I already bought a 48-52 steering column. I will be keeping the A rear end. The car came set up with juice brakes.

    I am now looking for the crossmember and pedals for the transmission. From what I read on this site, I have 4 options:
    1-build one.
    2-buy Vern tardels k member which is 600+ and out of stock where i looked
    3-somewhere i read that a rear model a crossmember could be used
    4-find a 32 crossmember,
    4-buy an F1 truck and take out the crossmember and pedals.

    Looks like I may be searching for an F1 to part out. Is there anything else I could use from this F1? I know where there is a 6 cyl, manual F1 that i could try to buy. Not many junkyards around me.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2021
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,527

    alchemy
    Member

    Loudpedal’s brand new crossmember and pedal setup is an alternative.
     
    loudpedal and Texas Webb like this.
  3. ydopen
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 231

    ydopen
    Member

    I used a Tardel K member, but that was years ago when they were more plentiful. The F1 crossmember and pedals works well. There are many build threads that use it. Do a search.
    I would search the HAMB classifieds for the parts rather than buy a parts truck.
    I got many parts that I needed through HAMB and Fordbarn classifieds.

    John
     
    Texas Webb likes this.
  4. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,485

    banjorear
    Member

    Agree.
     

  5. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,699

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    It's quite easy to fabricate an F1 style cross member.

    Not mine but a pic I saved for future reference.

    homemadeF1crossmember.png
     
    ClarkH, alanp561, Texas Webb and 2 others like this.
  6. Saw this on evil pay, but sold now. There are two threads going on this topic, so I'll post these here too. Enjoy.
    frame1.jpg frame2.jpg frame3.jpg frame4.jpg frame5.jpg
     
  7. "Same thing I posted in the other thread." I bought an F1 chassis for $300 scoring the crossmember, pedals, 9" ford rear end someone had put in, and the front beam and springs to build a small camper later with. Deals are out there, but not readily available. Both the F1 crossmember and the 32' K-member will require alot of fabrication to work. They do not just bolt in. If you do not want the cost of buying a parts truck or 32' Ford parts, you could fab your own crossmember utilizing what ever rear bearing retainer you have on your transmission and steel stock. All options require fabrication and trial and error. There is no template or off the shelf part to put a flatty in an "A" except for Salt City's K-member witch is similar to Tardels out of stock K-member. I assume your "toploader" is an early 3 speed and not a later toploader 3 or 4 speed. The later toploaders would not work with an F1 or 32' crossmember. If a budget is the restraint, mock the flatty in the chassis with your engine hoist and wood blocks or whatnot and start cutting cardboard until your happy with the results. Transfer patterns over to steel and fab up your brackets.
     
    28fordroadster likes this.
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,986

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The only way I would buy a whole F-1 to get the crossmember is if I planned to resell the whole truck minus the crossmember.

    If you didn't already have the steering box and the A didn't have juice brakes buying the F-1 and harvesting chassis parts and then reselling what was left of the truck would be viable.
    I bought a F-1 chassis from the sons of a guy who had swapped his 52 F 1 body over to a 4x4 chassis several years ago. I don't have any photos left but it was a complete chassis with 4 speed trans and hogshead minus engine and wheels.
    I got the:
    steering box
    Front brakes
    Front shock brackets
    crossmember and pedals
    Trans (froze up) with good hogshead
    Drive shaft.
    Then posted the chassis for sale and got what I paid for it back. The guy who bought it rolled into the yard, took a look at it paid me and we loaded it with my gantry and away he went back home. He missed a bargain deal because what he offered me he was going to get it for.
    Now I have all the pieces and am looking for another Model A frame as sold the Victoria that was getting the flathead. I have to check my neighbor to see what he has in his stash.
     
  9. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 357

    dmar836
    Member

    So, what's the going price on a F-1 cross member? There is one locally just removed (due to a street rod build) but I'm not sure what to offer. I really don't need for my current build but might grab it for later.
    D
     
  10. Checkout these guys and their Old Yankee Speed AV8 bits (clutch & brake pedal bracket, wishbone bracket and transmission mount). I've ordered a number of things from them & found they're a good bunch to deal with.

    https://www.millworkshotrod.com/
     
    100% Matt likes this.
  11. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,485

    banjorear
    Member

    They've gone up. Use to be $20-$40 bucks. Now, $100-200 depending on condition.
     
  12. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 357

    dmar836
    Member

    Thank you. Not sure I love the way they hang down but the utility is certainly there - especially for pedals.
    D
     
  13. #1 Choice F1 as it's simple, affordable and will work well with your A banjo
    #2 Choice Pre Fab '32 Unit as it has the built in advantage of time savings
    #3 Choice Gennie '32 unit which requires collecting up and modifying all the other companion pieces

    AV8DAVE did a very tidy job in utilizing the F1 unit with an A banjo years ago that has some great photos in this thread
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-more-av8-f1-crossmember.21833/

    I personally started with the stock 32 K member, 34, wishbone and 36 diff and the 1st Bishop/Tardel Book it all works well but the F1 route would have been simpler, quicker and cost much less IMHO
     

    Attached Files:

    kadillackid likes this.
  14. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,857

    adam401
    Member

    The Old Yankee kit seems real straight forward and Matts a good dude that tries to have his products made in New England.
     
    100% Matt likes this.

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