Question - When running wires under carpet, from wiring harness to rear of car, what are do's and dont's????
Whenever I've done this I wrap em up real well and slide them into one of those plastic wiring tubes and make sure I route em where there's not going to be any foot traffic, like along the tranny tunnel.
I favor running them under a console, so there isn't any interferrence with stuff that bolts to the floor and you can get to them easily. I also don't favor running them under carpet at all for the same reason. But if you do, I'd put them just inside the door jambs, so that you will only have to pull up a little carpet to get at them. Wrap them well, and lay them flat if you can. The other choice would be under the car along the frame if they are wires intended for lights, fuel senders, pumps etc. There is no need to run them thru the car. Gary
I second running them just inside the door jambs (where most old cars ran 'em anyways) . I'd run 'em in some split loom or something too , just to keep 'em from rubbing on something .
when I redid the interior of my '51 in '07-'08 I made sheet metal covers to protect the wiring the was run on top of the floorboards. for stereo related wires next to the center console/hump. ...and on the upper left side you can see my Enos Black Box wiring panel and the cover for some of those wires going to the rear. Under the heat shrink gun is the cover for seat related wires, tail lights, and fuel sender. that cover is for the front carpet area. Wires are more exposed under the seat. ...and those going all the way to the rear are protected by a third cover (center right of photo) on the left side of the driveshaft hump: once carpeted, there is no worry about damage to the wire and the covers were made flat enough that they are not noticed. On top of the floor and Dynamat, there is a 1/2" thick layer of Dynamat Dynaliner foam except over the wire covers.
use the braided shield from jegs, cheap and multi sizes available. if your avatar is the car in question, run as the factory did, up and over the headliner rail on the drivers side
Keep them flat and wide verses a round bundle. Under a full length console would be good but could cause you problems with crossing the control pedals and further clutter up the underdash area; depends on the orientation. I'd go at the door jambs or under the car along the frame. Don't use electrical tape to wrap the harness.
A lot of GM cars use a wide, flat wire sheath that protects the wiring. It runs under the carpet and it is pretty tough. I know they were using it in the '70s and up into the '80s.
Thanks all - By the way I'm using Rebel Wire Harness - Product suggested many times by guys on this site. So i want to protect a good thing.
They're practically freebies at any salvage yard that has late model cars. Any stripped out car should have them in plain sight. Bob
I'm thinking of using this in my 1950 Chevy Fleetline when I put in my stereo system. Running this down the center under the carpet for power wires to the trunk. Running these down the sides for speaker wires. Ron Francis "grey stuff" under carpet wire conduit. https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/431 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-gs10 American Autowire under carpet wire conduit https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/carpet-channel-8-feet-in-length https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500716
I used the R.F. grey stuff on my '32 and '40. One strip on each side run near the doors to keep wiring clear of the removable trans tunnels.
My friend used the Grey Stuff in his Model A build. Worked great. First time I had seen the stuff. Cool idea whoever came up with it.
The 5 wires going back to the trunk area on my 56 Ford were wrapped together in a cloth cover and laid at the angle where the floorboard started up onto the trans cover. Near the gas pedal the aimed up to the center of the hump under the firewall insulation then to the back of the dash. If I was to change wires I would find a flat cable color coded.
You can buy 1/4” x 1” plastic snap together wire channel in long lengths at your local electrical supply place for cheap. Wrap your wire bundle flat with wide tape every foot or so, lay it in the channel and you’re done.. Lays level with the insulation. Works good on relatively flat surfaces.
Hello, When I put in some wires for rear speakers in our 2nd 40 Ford Sedan Delivery, they ran all along the outside area under the door floorboard. That place was the least objectionable place to put the thin wires into a slightly larger flexible tubing from the local hardware store. The two speaker wires fit nicely inside of a slightly larger single flexible tube. The flexibility of the wires and tube can be long or short, follow the curvature of any space and not be a bump under the carpet. Since I ran two to one side and two to the other, the largest bump was two wire thickness. The American Auto Wire Loom seems to be 3/8ths thick, but 4 wide. If they all are going on one side then that is your choice. If the loom can be split into two, two tracks on each side, then the bump under the carpet will be less. If the looms are in a place where there is little to no traffic, then you are ok. we had a minimal bump, if any one was looking. Once the wires got to the back, then they ran under or inside the walls to the speakers. Jnaki Back then, there were no companies that made specific wire looms separated for wire channels. So, most used slightly larger flexible tubing for ease installation and flexibility. Whatever the case may be, running the looms down the center area will create a bump that is noticeable, so if you can split the wires and run them on the outside at the base of the door jams. No one looks there or steps on it. YRMV NOTE: I have purchased plenty of things from MONOPRICE and they have solid, well built products that work well in your applications, in these recent times. The wires are already threaded through the protected cover and are flexible enough for the installation. Back in those early days, we had to thread the red and black speaker wires through our own tubing for the same look and design, but installed in the same location.
Use PVC tubing. If you can get the stuff that has holes all through it for under ground watering, that would be best... If you have a resister wire for the coil keep that line away from the other wires..
My OT 442 ragtop has probably a 4" wide 1/2" tall rubber wire channel that takes the wires to the trunk across the floor. I don't know if all A bodies used them or just converts but it handles a lot of wire for PW, lights, tank sender, etc. Should be an easy piece to order.
Whenever possible I run the wiring up the A pillar, over the doors, and down the rear pillar. If that's not an option I run it close to the rockers where it's not getting stepped on. I have run it down the tunnel, but only if I can hide it in a corner transition where tunnel and floor meet. I've used what is called "pancake molding" that's made by Wiremold, and has a very flat profile, with a snap on cover. Since I worked as an electrician I could buy it from supply houses cheap, and it's a good product to protect the wires.
No part number. Just walked in my local small town electrical supply place and asked what they had in wiring channel. If I remember right it had peel and stick back. This pic came from Ms. Google/Amazon.
Old post I know. I ran my wires in the same factory location, down the driveshaft tunnel. I encased them in black shrink sleeving and it worked out well.
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