It's a 292 out if a 61 galaxie. Haven't even tried to figure out what the trans is but the case is all aluminum if that makes a difference. No I didn't. I can always do that when I tear the front back apart to replace the front crossmember though. Could stand to be a little lower up front IMO. I'll either chip a coil or add a spacer for the lower spring place which is pretty easy to do in these. -Adam Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Found the pushrods. Crossing my fingers this isn't a bad sign for the rest of the year down. -Adam Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Engine came with a bolt broken off flush with the top of the intake manifold. Drilled it out to get the intake off then tried pliers and it broke off flush with the head. So I did the old weld on a washer and nut (then try it 3 more times when the welded on but breaks off) trick. Ended up with this monstrosity of weld but lol but it worked well for my first time trying it Pulled the exhaust manifolds and found these little guys. Are these the lot lizards I've heard about? Lol Haven't pulled the heads yet but I'm glad I dug deeper. There was a fair bit of dirt and lizard nest in the ports and I imagine the cylinders will have at least some in there too. If I'd tried to start this thing something would have broke for sure. Still going to try to budget build it as much as that's possible with a y block. But it will need to go to a machine shop to clean up the block. -Adam Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Maybe you’ll get lucky when the heads come off and you won’t be able to feel a ring ridge... dingle ball hone it, rings, bearings and call it good. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Cylinders don't look too bad. I think I could probably get away with a dingle ball hone and be good to go... However there is a fair bit if rust in the water jackets. Some are even blocked with mud wasp nests. (Not sure if that's actually what they're called or not but it's like a paper wasp just packed mud) So I'm planning to take all the parts to a machine shop in Roanoke and at the very least have it cleaned in the hot tank. Are there any must do's if I'm at the machine shop anyway? Beyond the normal check everything over. -Adam Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Dirt dobber is the word UR looking for. IF you take it to the machine shop for hot tanking anyhow........have it bored the next size over. Why cut corners and go back into it in a year or so. Do it right.............do it once. 6sally6
That would be the '59-64 actual two-speed Fordomatic. Those are orphans these days, I wouldn't recommend using it and certainly wouldn't spend any money on a rebuild. Try to hunt down a earlier Fordomatic or even a Cruisomatic. Or convert to a C4 or AOD. Or even better, find a manual bell for the 292, rework the clutch linkage to fit and bolt it in....
Cars of this era were designed for bumper jacks so using any other lift point/method to change a tire creates the clearance issue your experiencing. In lifting my '54 I place wood blocks directly under the bumper bracket and use a floor jack. You'll see the body raise, raise, raise before the tire even parts the ground leaving you all the clearance you need. Don't over do it though......just jack the minimum amount you need to accomplish the task or you might rack something.
I was afraid that would be the case. Was hoping I could just run them together since I know they work together. Unfortunately I think another manual Trans is out as my wife wants to drive this one and for whatever reason has absolutely zero interest in learning to drive stick I'll try to remember to get one in the next couple days. When I fully disassembled the block to get ready for the machine shop 7 of the cylinders looks dingle ball fixable. The last had some pitting so jts will need to be bored anyway after all. Hoping to get it to the machine shop this week. It's been apart for 2 weeks but I don't have a truck so a coworker is going to help me take it down. Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Minor but also major update. -Got the block all torn down as mentioned 1 cylinders had pitting so it's going to get upsize when I eventually get it to the machine shop. -Spent the last few weeks pulling tins, rust removing and priming. Other than some sludge buildup it actually looked pretty good inside considering what the outside looked like. -I picked up a 4 barrel intake, carb adapter and new carb. -Got some chrome valve covers, a super straight oil pan, gauge cluster, and some achey feet at the pate's swap meet. After trying to find a place willing to cut out the pieces for my new front crossmember with little luck, I was about to conceded and just but the metal myself and fire up the cut off wheel. Then I found a guy on FB with a cnc plasma table a few towns over and he cut them out for me. Welded, ground, primed, painted. It's ready to go in when I have the engine out and the front end apart. Then 2 weeks ago we had a crazy hail storm roll through (crazy for us non-native Texans at least). In the span of about 20 minutes we had 2 vehicles, our roof, and gutters destroyed. I guess you just have to laugh right. So that's what I've been dealing with recently. I'm currently sitting in our rental car picking up the wife and kids from school since we're down to 1 modern vehicle at the moment. Hoping to change that in the next day or so but that's all off topic shit. Lol Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No lizard keychain yet. But the kids and the neighbors have been going crazy catching turtles and animals in the pond lol. They're up to like 45 or something not counting the ones they've had to release. #2 walked into our kitchen holding want she claimed was an injured bird but it looked perfectly healthy other than having its wings held closed by a 7 year old lmao. She's going to be the next Bindi Irwin. Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When you measure.......measure from lowest part of wheel up vertically NOT to the ground !! air in the tire can be different from side to side.. I even use a short vertical level.. thought I would pass it along FWIW
I slow it enough on my own without any help haha I'm assuming you're referencing the lowering pictures? I'll have to remember that. I usually measures in a few locations and sort of average it. But never thought about the tire pressures. Funny story went to test drive a jeep last night and while driving it got caught in that hailstorm over by Weatherford last night. Wasn't nearly as gnarly of a storm but still what are the odds I'd get hit by hail while trying to replace a vehicle totaled by hail. In TX apparently chances are pretty high haha. Jeep was a full pile of lemons so didn't pull the trigger. Looked cool but needed a lot of dumb stuff. Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've gotten lucky with the hail, we've lived here 14 years and for the last 10 had big trees that slowed the hail down. But our house flooded in February and we are still moved out and will continue to be for months, so? Not sure what I'd hate worse. BTW, we're planning on going to goodguys DSM, you all going?
I love mid-fifties Fords, and definitely prefer them to comparable year Chevys, will definitely be following. You maybe already know of him, but on the off-chance you don't, another great Y-block resource is the aptly named Y-Block Guy, Tim McMaster out of Hanford here in Kahleeforneeyah. He's on the HAMB, but here also is a link to his website: http://yblockguy.com/
We'll be up there but not bringing the car. Might have to go to GG as a spectator for a bit. Yeah I follow him on Instagram and Facebook. Have been browsing his website since I got the 292. He's is a wealth of info. As requested full shots after the lowering. Could use another inch and still ride well over these TX Potholes. Blocks going to the machine shop tomorrow Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I know it’s a personal choice or just what’s there when you start but I like the stock argent (silver) splash pan under the grilles of 55-56 Fords. As for the engine and bore sizes; a 292 can be .030, .040, .050 ( stock 312 pistons and rings, and .060. .050 puts you right at 300”..
You talking the panel between the bumper and grill or the panels behind the grill? This is how I got the car. Dropped the engine off and about an hr layer thebshop called and said my heads need everything (valves, guides, seats, springs, etc) to the tune of $1100+ and I should probably look for a different set... so anybody got a decent set of y block heads? Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Red...........It was nice meeting you at the Goodguys show. I went over a few hours later to where your car was when we spoke, but couldn't find you, so I never got to see it. I like what you're doing. good work! I did a post on the 52-59 club about a guy from our '57 forum who is looking to give some y-block stuff away, but no shipping, but he's in Connecticut prepping for a move to Texas down your way!! We got hit with hail last year here in Amarillo. Three cars (not my garaged '57) and the house alone was 37k damage to the roof and gutters. (I love USAA)
BTW, several car shows down your way this weekend Saturday in River Oaks and Sunday in Arlington. HMMMMM. I need a road trip, it's been 2 weeks!
Yes under the grille. Factory on every color or combination of colors and every model was “argent” or silver to most of us; during repaint many are changed to the lower color. Check out 55-56 Fords on Google and you’ll see. Your car looks great; it’s just I prefer that stock appearance today. Not sure on the customlines but the Aqua green or actually Mountain Green 55 Fairlanes had two-tone metallic green dash’s and window sills. Weird but true.
I have a fordomatic that is a good tranny and torque converter call me if you need it 623-826-1543 Ray
Never knew that. Thanks now I'm curious. Not super sold on the color I have I don't think it's an actual ford color just some generic turquoise. I like the color of the gauge cluster I got at Pates. It's similar but still different. Would the exterior turquoise been this same as the gauge color? Original color is a blue color you can see it in one of the paint chips on the fender lol Thanks I'll give you a call. I actually have a c4 that had been slated for a mustang build thats been stalled for like a decade. Just need to get a Flat O bellhhousing and source a torque converter. Dropped off the block Crank is still factory size never been ground so should clean up nicely with a .010 .010 And then I got a call shortly after I left that the heads need everything, will be expensive to rebuild and that I should see if I can find another set. Sent from my SM-G781V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app