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Technical Modifying sedan door to coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rusty Heaps, May 4, 2021.

  1. Rusty Heaps
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 962

    Rusty Heaps
    Member

    I have not been able to find a driver side door for my ‘52 Buick Special coupe, even though ‘51-‘53 coupe and convertible fit. Anyway. I may have access to a decent sedan door. What would be the best approach, cut the window frame out and work the vent window and main window frames in from the coupe door? Or another option? The bottom of the door on the car is rotted away. The doors measure the same front to rear.
     
  2. miller
    Joined: Aug 5, 2006
    Posts: 507

    miller
    Member
    from New Jersey

    why can't you replace the rotted parts?...miller
     
  3. Rusty Heaps
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 962

    Rusty Heaps
    Member

    8D18748C-797D-4432-9EAA-4DB4CB7736E3.jpeg AA509844-244C-44EE-955E-3E4C03389EF6.jpeg
    I figure there would be less trouble to work the small areas of the top of the door rather than welds all the way around the lower half of the door with probable warping of the skin. And the trim at the belt line would hide any flaws.
     
  4. JMHO, but replacing the lower portion would be the way I would do the job. HRP
     
    hemihotrod66 likes this.

  5. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,210

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    replace the lower section..measure twice , cut , join , weld slowly , grind with cutoff wheels to keep the heat down
     
    hemihotrod66 likes this.
  6. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,096

    gene-koning
    Member

    Usually window frames are welded to the door frames in several locations. By the time you get the window frames out of both doors, you could have repaired the bottom of the door. By the time you get the "new" window frame welded back into the door and get the windows to function, you certainly would have wished you would have just replaced the bottom of the door.

    Its easier to keep the warpage down on the outside skin if the inner door panel is not there. Weld the outside door skin on with a series of spot welds spread out across the entire width, moving around as you sport weld. The inside of the door is usually covered with a door panel, so a little warp on the inside isn't a critical as warp on the outside skin.
     
  7. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,446

    Squablow
    Member

    I would definitely fix the hardtop door, they're a lot different once you really dig into them. If you can get your hands on the sedan door and it's really solid, you could probably use the bottom of the sedan door to fix the hardtop door. But the whole inner panel that the regulator bolts to and the entire top of the hardtop door are different, so either way you'd end up doing a lot of welding and you'll have a seam all the way across the skin, only at the top instead of the bottom.
     
  8. Rusty Heaps
    Joined: May 19, 2011
    Posts: 962

    Rusty Heaps
    Member

    That’s what I figured. I assumed that I would probably be better off with cutting the lower section from the sedan door, if it’s solid, but had hoped there would be less hassle to cut the window frame off and work the top leading and rear edges, then swap the window frames in. Especially since the stainless would cover most of the top of the door.
     
  9. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,413

    southcross2631
    Member

    PM me . I can fix your door. I just finished my step sons 65 F100 door. Looked just about like yours.
     
    Sporty45 likes this.

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