Rear end swap for 1950 chevy sedan with 216

http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/lower-shock-mounting-plates-type-2/

 

I have a 3spd standard transmission with overdrive from a 55 chevy. Can i put it in my 51 coupe and still use column shift? I want to use it with open driveline with 71 nova rearend.

 

It may well work, IIRC the trans itself is basically the same, but you will need a handle and control for the overdrive. Probably should start a new thread if you really want answers to the question, most guys will click, read the first couple posts and answer that for the 12th time.

 

You can but if you run the stock 216 you will need a 48/53 truck/pickup bellhousing off a 216 or 235 to match the bolt pattern on front of the trans along with coming up with a correct length drive shaft.

It's pretty tight quarters around the transmission in those Chevys though so you might have some clearance issues with the OD trans.

 

Easy swap is a '51-'52 Chevy w/ auto trans rear end, it also has the advantage of having Bendix brakes as opposed to Huck style.

 

I have a 1952 chevy hardtop with a 235. I purchased the adapter plate to mount a TH350. New balanced drive shaft and a 1972 El camino Rear End. new starter as well. Runs like a dream now. I drove it from San Diego to Vegas and back no problem. less work for your engine at lower RPM highway speeds!

 

I'm planning on running a 235 engine from a 1959 elcamino, the 3sp overdrive, and 71 nova rearend. Wonder if the column shift linkage will line up??

 

Can someone here tell me if the stock frames on 50-54 chevys are the same? Can i put a 52 chevy body on a stock 54 chevy frame with easy bolt up? The 52 body is a coupe, and the 54 frame is a 4dr sedan. Keeping everything stock.

 

50chevy.com says a '57 Chevy rearend 'is best' for this swap: ... Why?

 

Would 14 inch mag wheels work alright or would they look stupid? LOL I have a chance to buy some 14 inch mags cheap but don't know how they would look on a 1951 chevy coupe. Anyone out there using this size wheel?

 

14" are a little dinky on a 50 Chev but don't look bad if it is lowered a couple inches. Gives a 60s low rider look.

 

Your '50 unless it has been updated will have a torque tube unless I am seriously mistaken. The Camaro rear will fit with some welding and finagling, but you will need a different transmission and a drive shaft.

You can get everything from the back of the block to the rear end from a 3 speed car if open rear and 3 gear is what you want. it will need to be a 6 cylinder car. The driveshaft will need to be shortened.

You can get a powerglide center section from a powerglide car they are not for sale new..

 

want to install a 1956 Chevy rear in my 1954 car what are the measurements for drilling the spring perches ?

 

I’ve drilled one at one inch. Drilled another at one and a quarter inch. The tri 5 rear is a great pick. Me myself I would drill One inch the put in place and add the wheels I’m going to run. Stand back and look. If it doesn’t look right. Drill it to one and a quarter. That’s just my way. I used the tri five shock plate also makes a neat finished look.

 

@wayne stelter ......my recollection is that the dimension is 1 1/2” forward. However, you can determine the dimension by measuring your original axle assembly, both as to the forward offset of the bolt hole as well as side to side spacing. The latter is important because once the old axle is removed from the springs, the ‘free hanging” distance between the springs is almost certainly going to change by some amount.

For the pin offset location, measure from center of the axle tube forward to the locating hole on the spring mount pivot.

Having done this a couple of times many years ago, I think width between the tri-five axle pads are slightly different than the ‘49/‘54 pads, but close.

Ray

 

thanks for the info i have taken a lot of measurements before i remove the old axle . but realize that when i remove old 54 rear i will not be able to measurements axle pads as they are not fixed to the 54 axle and will be lost ok any other helpful tips will take thanks . truck in profile pic 2005 rst

 

My recollection is that the axle ‘pads’ that clamp to the spring are indeed attached to the axle housing. When the clamping ‘U bolts’ are removed, the ‘pads’ should remain attached to the housing by a horizontal bolt through brackets welded to the axle housing. It should be a simple matter to measure from the centerline of the axle housing to the hole in the spring pad to determine the offset.

Ray

 

You should have started your own thread on that rather than piggybacking on someone else's question.,

 

To put this thread back on track, I just recently purchased a rear end from a ‘54 Chevy with an automatic transmission for my ‘50. Better gear ratio, better brakes!

 

To answer Wagontrains' question, you can't remove the torque tube separately. You have to remove the bolts that hold the punkin onto the axle housing. With the axles removed, tube, carrier assembly all come out together. If changing the gear ratio I wouldn't go higher than 3.55 to 1 due to lack of power at altitude and roads with steep hills.