Customs Color sanding and polishing.

I've spent an entire day color sanding the DeSoto wagons base/clear, and today started polishing. I cut it with 1200, which, according to the Wizards polishing compound, should have been enough, but I have a very disappointing outcome. Sanding scratches visible, even with lot's pressure on the buff, and repeated passes.
I got into a conversation with Rob Ida about this, he asked what grit paper I was using, and I told him. "One grit?" was his reply, which lead me to believe I was missing something.
He advised me that he starts with 600, moving to 800, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2,000, and up to a grit I'd never even heard of, like 20,000, and said, "Polishing is a breeze then."
Well, I guess.
I have a sleeve of 1500, and did the passenger doors and tailgate with that after the 1200. The difference is noticeable. I think if I get some 1800 and 2.000, and start over I'll have a job I can be proud of. I've done about half of the car, so, at this point, it's no big deal.
And, my pecs and shoulders should be ripped, for a 66 year old, when I'm done...

 

I'm going to follow along because I'll probably need to do the same. On the bright side, that Garnet looks like it'll really sparkle out in the sun.

 

Looking good. Rootbeer...my favorite. I find that if the paint is 'green' it takes way longer to color sand and buff out...I usually wait quite a time before I do it but if you are on a timeline and I kind of get the feeling you are trying to keep your inertia ...and yes, I usually go to 2000 grit but use a DA and Velcro discs along with lots of water. Saves on the old joints
I also use the 3M 1, 2, 3 compounds

 

Trizact papers. 3m product --> Trizact. Comes in 2000, 3000, 4000, & 5000 grits. Good stuff. Tape your hard edges and transitions .. or JUST BE CAREFUL.

I never tape anything. You probably won't either.

Gets the paint surface, super slick. Its for the perfectionist, or very bored .. painter. Fun, fun !!

 

I had a "Buff-Flex" foam pad and ultra fine discs, I believe they were 3500 grit, but the foam pad (a "hook-it" style for a 6" DA) disintegrated in it's box. I'm looking at my Autobody Toolmart catalog and am confused, I see the Trizact discs, in 3,000 and 5,000 grit, but are they used with a regular "hook-it" pad? This is used wet, correct?

 

Look at it this way, your first pass with the buffer = 9000 grit. So the closer you get to 9000 with paper the nicer and easier the shine will come up.

 

When I did my ride I started with 1200. I then went to 1500,2000,2500. Then with a 3M foam buff and Maguires #2 followed with fine polish ( cant remember what #).
It's like a mirror. Very eased with the finished product.

 

Had to many "damnit!" moments using the da with the hookit system. Also had a waterbug for a while, but all it takes is one small piece of foreign material on the panel and the clear is destroyed. At least when hand sanding you can hear it and stop to flush the panel. I use 1500 to start if i have very much orange peel to cut. If not i go 2000 and then 3000.

 

I forgot to mention I started 1200 because I was worry I might be to heavy handed and burn through the clear coat. The whole process took me 4 days, I didn't want to be in a hurry and screw it up.

 

I think I'm going to suck it up and just hand sand the whole damned car again. And again. And again...

 

Sounds crazy, but pick up a bottle of wizards turbo cut and see what it does on the area you've already sanded. It works pretty damn good. I use it with a white foam pad. Get a spray bottle of plain water, mist the panel and your pad, and go to work. I follow up with finish cut and a different white pad, then 3M machine glaze.

 

The reason it took 4 days was I hand sanded the car. I feel more confident doing it this way.
"PAIN IS SUCH A RUSH"

 

You build some killer cars, way nicer than my junk lol. But another tip if you don't already do it, is a few drops of dish soap in your sanding water. I also like to drop my sandpaper in the water about an hour before i start, it softens the paper, makes a better job in my opinion

 

Didn't know about the dish soap trick. Paper in the water. OH YEAH

 

Dish soap lessens the chance of clogging the paper with paint.
I've done very little sanding and polishing of 2-pak but it's the reason I like old fashioned acrylic lacquer. I don't clear coat solid colours as most of them have an amount of clear in the formula. Wait a couple of days, block with 1200 and lambswool buff. To get rid of swirls I squirt the buffed panel with water and a light buff till the watery slurry disappears. 2 pak I was told needs either a couple of hours in a heated booth or at least a month of natural hardening.

 

Lloyd has got you covered.
One thing I was taught and have done successfully is to cross-hatch when sanding, even for cutting.
45 degrees in one direction until evenly dull, then 45 in the other direction, making sure scratches even out. It's fairly easy to spot a remaining deep scratch (previous grit) and work it out with good lighting.

 

When you get it all done you will look like Tarzan! The car will look like a $1 Million paint job done by some professional. Yes, I hand sand too for fear of getting too abusive. I think it gives much better feel and you get to watch alot closer. I see you have a scissor lift. I have one too and it saves the back alot when working down low. How do you like yours?

 

Make sure to use quality buffing pads. Not the cheap no name ones. I use 3M pads and can’t complain. I teach 15 to 20 kids a year how to buff during our painting classes and most can do a great job with no sanding marks showing. For the “show car” look, we start with 1000 and then go to 2000 wet sanded by hand.
This year, we started using and comparing 3M and Meguiars rubbing and polishing compounds. I personally really like the Meguiars and so did all the students. Seems to be a little thicker and not sling all over as bad.
I use the Meguiars at home also. Its a little more economical.

 

I was introduced to Meguires products with there mirror glaze for aircraft windows. Dad always uses there stuff and so do I. My results have always been great. From windows to paint finishes, all good stuff.

 

That's what I'm using. And I've got the 3M Machine Glaze product as well. I just need finer paper.

 

Yes, used wet.
It is an ONYX 322P 6" palm sander. It is pretty efficient on the air side and my 7.5 HP air compressor cycles off using it.
The abrasive pads are the 'pile' side and they are private label from the paint supply house I trade at. The pads are real robust and last quite awhile if kept wet enough to keep from fouling the abrasive.
I use a Vaper 7" variable speed buffer...it was a low end one as I recall and I took the drive apart and greased it up real good and it quieted it down.
I use the 'Buff and Shine' foam pads on it with the 3M 'Perfect-it' Cutting, Buffing and Machine Polishing compounds (1, 2, 3)
For maintaining shine there is nothing like Detail King STS 3000 Polymer Sealant and I apply it with a CYCLO and foam pads...it wipes right off it is unbelievable product and is paint shop safe (no silicone).
I'm an old guy and these products have made my life easier but I am sure the results will vary.
Good luck and I'm loving all your projects immensely
Larry

 

I have a few items to add: 1st, if you have any orange peel at all use a hard back sanding pad. The courser grit you use the more successful you will be at removing the peel. If its' mild, 1000 grit is a place to start, if it's rough try 800. Advance to 1500, then 2000 and maybe 3000. These are wet sand numbers not trizac. I use the 3m buffing products. Don't use the 3rd if you might ever have to do any paint work on the car. That polish will cause you plenty of grief trying to avoid fisheyes. The last point is how many coats of clear did you spray. If you don't have enough, you will surely sand or buff through. Only exp. will teach you what's right for you. I always inspect under florescent light inside. I will see scratches that in the sunlight disappear. Everyone that has done this successfully knows that you have to be very careful and take lots of time or you will be respraying. I'm just some guy who has been painting on and off since 1970. There maybe plenty of people with better methods.

 

Good point about knowing how many coats of clear your dealing with. I had 3 coats on my car increasing the amount of material with each coat.

 

Old school I still am.. I start with 800 if there is a LOT of texture or normally 1000 then 1200 and 1500 for that glass look.. I agree w/Lloyd dish soap in the bucket and soak the paper also. Then I go to the rough stuff compound 3M super duty and a wool pad, Cut the compound about 50% with water also in a separate jug and use a WOOL CUTTING PAD. Then finish with polishing compounds and pads







Wool pad Amazon.com: 3M 05703 Superbuff Buffing Pad, Double Sided, 9 Inch: Automotive



Polishing pad...

Then do your foam and such after...

Me thinks OP is using a polishing compound/pad trying to get the scratches out

 

This is what Ido, but I am a crappy painter. I spray 2 coats and then color sand with 600, then I spray 2 more coats and repeat with 800, 1200, 2000, 3000. I had color sanding more than cleaning out my sewer.

 

Hey B, I polish more metal than paint but on SS and aluminum I would never go to the wheel without first sanding with 800, 1000, 2000, 3000 and 5000. The finer you get the scratches the easier the job the compound has on the finish.

 

Clear coats very when it comes to their buffing characteristics, even the same clear with different speed catalyst in it. I also think a wool pad to cut on your first pass would be worth a try, it looks from your pics that your dealing with a clear that is hardened already.

 

Looks nice, Brian.
Great exercise.
Wetsand with fine enough sandpaper, and it'll be shiny even before buffing.

 

No, the roof and hood 5 days, the bottom was just one day.