Engine stand bolts... 7/16x14 Will mount the engine when I get time this weekend Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/img_1342-jpg.5008554/ I'd make the cut in the corners, then fit it to the body before finish welding. Bob
Gospel. So many guys do patches and piecing together with a part laying on the bench. Then they wonder why stuff doesn't fit when they bolt it up to the body. It's cause they are doing it backwards. Other day I saw a post with a guy putting patch panels on the bottoms of his 34 doors before he even had the body shell attached to the floor and chassis. Ridiculous. The hard parts to move are the floor, rockers, door jambs, and roof. Let the small parts like upper doors and lower patches be fine tuned to fit the opening in the body, not the other way around.
Do NOT tap the threads for the head studs. You will be fighting seeping studs forever. Henry designed those studs to have a tighter tolerance on the block to prevent the coolant from seeping through the threads. If you run a regular tap in them you will ruin that. You can cut a slot lengthwise in an old head bolt and run that in there to clean the crud out of the threads. But not a tap.
This is actually for the mounting holes on the side so the engine stand bolts will attach... they are rusted. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
If you are mounting to the exhaust port bolts, only the front two are 7/16. the backs are 3/8. really, an 8ba can be mounted from the bellhousing end safely, unlike the earlier blocks
It’s these bolts here... they are 7/16 x 14... I could barely get 2 threads to bite... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
You might want longer bolts. I would not feel comfortable with two threads holding. I have had a flathead drop on the floor and they do not bounce.
That's why I'm chasing the second block/ I ended up using a 7/16" bolt on this one but it was a bear...
If you are trying to clean up existing threads with a tap, be very careful as the tap will cut new threads, not just clean up the threads and leave you with bad threads. The correct tool to use is a thread chaser not a tap!
Don't you have a 27 T build thread on this site? It's been going for over ten years, and isn't half way done. Is this coupe on the same schedule? Just saying
Frame rail boxing plates came in yesterday... pics to follow. Degreasing engines today and general shop cleaning/putting up tools. It’s gotten ridiculous with all my tools everywhere working on so many projects! My kids have 3 cars I’m helping them with... then the 3 Jalopies... I’m also rebuilding 2 more starters this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I started on the bottom end with the mains . I will be using the Tremec on this powerhouse, and the C10 on the 28.
I removed the cam and timing cover and all of the tappets and valves. Unfortunately the engine is seized. I have been working it with pb blaster for 3 days, and also shocked the pistons with a large iron pipe. Still no dice. Next up is the heat wrench for some hot cold cycles. I obviously don’t want to damage the block or the Merc crank... Careful extraction is necessary here, however, worst case scenario will be destruction of the pistons... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Sometimes you can sneak a few pistons out the top if they aren't all seized. Then you only have to worry about the couple that don't have clearance around the crank, and the seized ones. Check for a ridge at the top of the cylinder first and remove it with a cutter so you don't accidentally crack it pounding a piston upward out of the hole.
A guy over on the barn puts diesel fuel in all the holes and lights it on fire! Might not go over well in your neighborhood.
A trick I use when disassembling a stuck engine is to scrape the debris and rust out of the cylinders using a box-knife blade, the pointed ends of the blade get down between the edge of the piston and the cylinder so whatever rust juice you use can get to where it can do some good. That and whenever I take off a rod cap I put a piece of rubber hose over the rod bolts, helps prevent damage to the crank.
So I followed your advice... I think it might be working! I poured a serious batch of witches brew down again... every damn grease I could find! Liquid wrench, gas, pb blaster, wd 40.... something’s gotta give. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I also leveled off the block and focused on one side. I purchased a cylinder fly cutter, as there is definitely a ridge! Thank you alchemy for saving my butt for the hundredth time... I will work the other side tomorrow. I figure having full coverage is better than some weird angled variant. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
