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Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roll of the dices, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,379

    33Doll

    Beautiful! No pits for you!
    Smooothhh!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Jrs50 and loudbang like this.
  2. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,037

    Aaron D.
    Member

    The SPI stuff is great.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  3. It all looks great! And you did it yourself saving all that $$ for more important things like go-fast parts... :)
     
    loudbang and 31ford39 like this.
  4. Not bad at all for a couple for first timers :)

    Amen to that! The more I use it the more I like it and the supplier near me is super cool, always available, ships super fast and free always shipping.

    For sure, that's the best feeling throughout this journey, fruit of my own labor.
     
    loudbang and Jrs50 like this.
  5. Took an executive decision of not moving forward with the frame, for now, that is.
    I've been reading that I should let the 2k HB primer cure properly and the longer I let it cure the less change I run of lifting, shrinking, or crackling after applying base coat....I am in no rush here so I will let the weather warm up and in the meantime, the primer can cure.

    I will however move forward with the rear bells so the QC can go back together.
    I sanded the bells today, no pictures yet, but this primer sands super smooth and easy....Everyone is a hero on his own mind, so I am hoping I am doing it well. Hard to judge when I am not sure what is it that I am supposed to achieve.

    I hit it with 220, 400 and finished them off with wet 600.
    They look very smooth with no primer/texture and very even/straight. Had them sitting on the warm indirect sun to ensure all solvents evaporate and dry properly so tomorrow I can add some color to them.
     
  6. I got most of the parts needed for my spring spreader.
    Found some 25mm thrust bearings in ebay. Not sure how good these are but for $10/pair is worth trying them
    The 7/8" grade 8 nuts and washers came Ace hardware....Needs some dimensions so I can start building it

    thumbnail_IMG_7072.jpg
     
    oliver westlund, brEad and loudbang like this.
  7. Picked up my polished Winters QC and I couldn't be happier with outcome.
    Original plans did not included getting it polished. The idea was to seal the cast and leave it alone however the polishing of the driveshaft snowballed into this....kinda glad it did!!!

    Now, if I can get the rear bells painted, and a make final decision for the gears then I might just have a finished rear end.

    thumbnail_IMG_1358.jpg thumbnail_IMG_1359.jpg thumbnail_IMG_1360.jpg thumbnail_IMG_1361.jpg thumbnail_IMG_1362.jpg thumbnail_IMG_1363.jpg
     
  8. I've been working slowly but steady doing the first of the painting.
    I am focusing on the rear bells so the QC can be put together.

    I am not happy just yet with my lack of spraying skills. I am still learning and still playing to get it dialed just right.
    My pressure at the hose was too high.
    A little bit of texture on the paint...I am sure some wet sanding with 800 grit will knock it down prior to clear but my goal is to get it to lay down flat and smooth.

    thumbnail_IMG_7078.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7078.jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_7079.jpg
    My very first piece...It has the most of the texture.

    That Washington Blue looks soooo nice! Paint is nice and shiny without clear. I can't wait to see it in clear....The polished center is going to pop!
    Letting it cure a few days before sanding it and shooting the clear. Hopefully this Friday it should be ready for clear, if weather helps, that is.

    I sanded down the front spring, chamfered the ends, applied some primer and then hit it with satin black Rustoleum. 50% acetone and 50% rustoleum....I do like the look of it!
    Adjusted my air pressure way down, 30 lbs at the hose and paint came out much better...still fine tuning my pressure and gun.
    The paint laid down much smoother showing no texture, just the texture of the metal. Perfect sheen!

    thumbnail_IMG_7081.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7082.jpg

    I will let it cure and then will hit all moving areas with Slip Plate before putting it back together.
     
  9. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,379

    33Doll

    Good
    idea on the all thread leaf Rotisserie!
    I might have to try that!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  10. Can't take the credit for it :) I saw it here @ the hamb but it sure works well
     
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  11. Alright, one step back to move one step forward.
    Once the spring dried I didn't like the satin sheen, it was to shiny still, and I didn't like the black....Damn!
    The good news is that I really like the texture and the color of the Slip Plate...so sprayed them over.
    thumbnail_IMG_7084.jpg
    Much better looking
    thumbnail_IMG_7085.jpg

    ...and now onto the rear spring

    thumbnail_IMG_7083.jpg
     
  12. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,379

    33Doll

    loudbang likes this.
  13. Take 2....on to the rear spring.
    Cut and rounded off the corners, chamfered top and bottom edges.

    thumbnail_IMG_7094.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7092.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7093.jpg

    Sprayed with Rustoleum....now waiting for them to dry so I can spray with Slip Plate

    thumbnail_IMG_7095.jpg
     
  14. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 1,379

    33Doll

    roll of the dices and loudbang like this.
  15. Hit it with 800 and laid on 3 coats of clear.
    Very happy with the way is coming out. It is not perfect but damn proud of it for my first real paint job....I can feel a pep in my step :)
    I got the air pressure figured out, I now have to dial in the gun a bit more, and control my speed...I tend to spray too fast as I afraid of the material running:)

    Will let it cure for a few days and will get it cut and buffed.

    thumbnail_IMG_7101.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7102.jpg
     
  16. Lesson learned today, don't assume....

    In a conversation with Winters I was was told my QC needs a vent and that any 3/8" npt would do. To simply remove the fill plug and replace it with vent/plug....easy enough!
    I set myself to look for a vent and found this one from PPM racing. Small/short enough and only thing bothering me was the black anodize and yellow lettering.
    I had removed anodize before using simple oven cleaner so no biggie, right? Polished would look with polished QC center.

    thumbnail_IMG_7116_2.jpg
    Just like I had done in the past, stick it in zip lock bag full of oven cleaner and waited for 20 minutes....didn't even knock off the sheen off of it. Repeat this time for 1 hour....didn't work.
    Bottle of oven cleaner was pretty old so went to the 99 cents store and bought a new bottle. Round 2, 2 hours...and nothing.
    Ok, did some research...read toilet bowl cleaner works....let it sit for an hour...It smelled nice and clean but only a few little spots were removed.
    Let it sit over night....Still it didn't work
    thumbnail_IMG_7112.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7113.jpg
    At least the finish was now dull.
    Are there different types and quality of anodizing? This finish was tuff.
    I had remove blue and red anodizing and it came off easily...

    ...More research....found a post recommending Whink Rust Stain Remove.
    $4.99 @ Target
    thumbnail_IMG_7110.jpg

    This stuff is no joke...Put the vent in a small glass jar, fill it with this thing and right off the gate, this thing starts fizzling and fuming...15 minutes later...Boom! Anodize is gone
    thumbnail_IMG_7114.jpg

    A little bit of elbow grease and I now have a vent for the QC
    thumbnail_IMG_7115.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7116.jpg
     
  17. MIKE619
    Joined: Aug 27, 2011
    Posts: 13

    MIKE619
    Member
    from San Diego

    It’s all in the details! Nice paint work!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

  19. Thank you
     
    loudbang likes this.
  20. Now that the paint and clear has had enough time to cure and I had enough time to watch a few youtube videos of what to do next, it is time to move forward.
    This is totally uncharted territory for me...I get the concept but not the practice. I am not sure how much to sand between grits, when to stop, how much can it be removed....oh well, I am here to learn

    The plan I came up with is to sand it down with 1,500, then 2,000 and finish it with 3,000 before buffing.

    Today, was 1,500 round and, so far, I am feeling good.
    thumbnail_IMG_7122.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_7123.jpg
    I still have to remove some more orange peel but no signs of thinning clear, burned edges or any of the other things youtube videos said to be in hte watch out for.

    thumbnail_IMG_7124.jpg
     
  21. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,332

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Parts like that if I needed a nice finish I would color sand and flow with another cote or two of clear.
     
    loudbang and Weedburner 40 like this.
  22. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 956

    Weedburner 40
    Member

    That's a lot of work for chassis parts unless it is an all out show car. I would do like oldiron said, knock it down and re-clear.
     
  23. Thank you. No car show just a good looking driver :)
    I didn't know that was an option. That sounds like a pretty good idea. I will keep that on mind for the future parts.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  24. I spent the morning wet sanding and first round of polish compound/glaze.
    That is some labor..My respect to those that do bodywork for a living....
    Bells are done and will be taking them tomorrow to Speedway Engineering so they start final assembly of the Quick change.
    This my 1st complete "paint job" and beyond happy with the progress, thus far. Learned quite a bit along the way and can't wait to start with the frame.
    thumbnail_IMG_7128.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7129.jpg
     
  25. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,294

    loudbang
    Member

  26. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Those axle housings look like today's plastic deck furniture...
    i have never seen an early ford axle housing that wasn't pitted...
    you guys in CA. have got it good... your rust is no where near as hungry as ours ...
    .
    they look better than brand new !
    go roll go !
     
    loudbang and SEAAIRE354 like this.
  27. Aviator99
    Joined: Oct 10, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Aviator99
    Member
    from ohio

    Great build thanks for sharing, following along.
     
    loudbang and tb33anda3rd like this.
  28. Thank you
     
    loudbang likes this.
  29. We are for sure lucky around here with rust.
    I am glad I am beyond rust repair with the body and now working with all good metal.
     
    33Doll and loudbang like this.
  30. Thank you. stay tune, more to come soon.
     
    loudbang likes this.

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