Hot Rods The all inclusive,almighty Y block thread

The single-4-bbl 57 D-code 312 was rated at 245 hp @ 4500 rpm. Lobe lift .385/Duration @ .050 207 1/2. Later replacement cams had 192-197 duration @ .050. Your cam is either OEM or very close.

 

you have a couple of threads i started in your list. i'll contribute when i can.

just got my Y-bloke 4-71 blower intake. need to pay Gary Dyer a visit and then i'll post some pics

 

Love my Y block,

Avoid the early 239 engines, not much interchanges.


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So, what is a good all around hot rod cam for the street?

 

These things have been known to break the hex shaft that drives the oil pump. I can tell you from experience that they don't run long after it breaks.

 

Easy fix.

$21.49

Ford 239 - 312 Y Block ARP Heavy Duty Oil Pump Drive shaft Part Number 154-7906, Many an engine has been destroyed as a result of oil pump driveshaft failure. To cure this all-too-common problem, ARP has designed an extra heavy-duty shaft that will provide you with the necessary reliability. The shaft is made from heat-treated, premium grade aerospace chrome moly steel. Moreover, the shaft diameter is a larger diameter than the OEM unit.

These features combine to enable ARP shafts to handle the added torque requirements of increased capacity oil pumps or heavy viscosity lubricants.

ARP Ford Heavy Duty Oil Pump Drives:
Made from ARP2000 and heat-treated to 220,000 psi.
These ARP Heavy Duty Oil Pump drives feature a CNC milled (not broached) hex, and has the retaining washer installed.

 

My little Y-Block.

 

My buddy in high school had a really nice 55 Ford Fairlane 2 door post. It had a 272, 2 bbl with a 3 speed overdrive. At the time I had a 54 Mercury with a 3 speed overdrive. I told him that if he got above 30 in first, he could let up and it would go into overdrive. He did that all the time and would wind it up until it quit accelerating and then hit the kickdown and make it downshift back to first. I told him not to do that, but he did all the time. Not surprising that it started burning oil.

One day he told me that his Ford stopped burning oil, but it was using a lot more gas. He wanted to get a locking gas cap because he thought the neighborhood kids were stealing his gas. I told him it wasn't likely that the Ford just quit using oil. He said it did, in fact it was over full on the dipstick. I told him not to drive it that way and let me look at it. Of course the fuel pump was leaking gas into the crankcase. He brought it to me when the engine started to knock. Drained the oil, new fuel pump, but the rear main was now leaking pretty bad. His fix was to buy Allstate oil in gallon cans and refill it when the oil light started flashing. The engine never did fail but we ended up putting a 312 in it.

 

The only time a Ford Y-Block will twist that oil pump drive shaft is if the load on the pump is excessive.One thing that causes that is junk in the pump, valve seals, piece of steel, jamming the pump. In this case the larger rod may not help. Another situation is if the oil is very thick, due to wrong oil or very cold and you rev the engine excessively. These thing can usually be avoided. The other is very high RPM.... none of my Y-blocks could ever get to that RPM, nor would I take them there. But I would still use the heavier drive shaft. I do in all Fords I build.





Bones

 

Of course I like Y-Blocks; and I think they look as pretty as they sound. I like just about everything about it.

 

Actually it was a 60s 292 block after they started casting over the road draft tube hole in the side of the block Ford casting core shift got better on the late ones it was sonsic tested. So it was a .1562 over 292. Car was street driven and never had any heating problems. the 312 stuff was only heads intake and a 57 bird distributor for the tach drive And the tach was upgraded to a SW the factory unit only went to 6000 One other tip get rid if the early pushrods the 1960 up were tubular stronger and lighter

 

The one I described on this post pulled good to 7000 I was just hen house to take it farther.

 

I'll keep my 430 Lincoln! But I did race a 57 ford custom with a 312 at the local 1/2 mile dirt track in the 60s..

 

Oddly enough when our 1956 pickup had it’s original 223 six in it my Dad put a single steel stack on it , with no muffler, right behind the cab extending universal our cattle racks. So it was quite tall. Sounded cool to a eight year old kid, me, but I’m sure is sounded bad! Fast forward a few years, we put the 312 in it and I begged my Dad to put dual stacks, no mufflers, on it, but it got dual exhaust out the back, with mufflers! Shoot!






Bones

 

I had a 56 mainline hardtop 292 police interceptor I put the 2x4 factory intake and a mallory dual point. 3- speed overdrive. 4.11 gears. Beat it's share of chevys too

 

Is it alright to add this? https://egge.com/media/pdf/StreetThunder_Y-Block.pdf

 

My OEM 57 T-bird tach-drive distributor only goes to 5000.

If you buy an ARP oil pump driveshaft, make sure the retaining clip is on the correct end.

 

1970 and 1971 Popular Hot Rodding magazine had monthly installments of a y-block build, lots of good info in those. I can look up the specific month's if anyone is interested.

 

Absolutely.

 

Several videos on YouTube on y-block's. Good stuff. ( As you can probably tell, I like y-block's. Have 5 292's ,6 312's and quite a few other part's)

 

Interested!

 

Buddy of mine finished this Y-block powered Deuce a few years back.

 

jimmy six, it looks like your Wilwood master cylinder is sitting on the exhaust manifold. Heat is not a problem?

 

April 1970 -- June 1970 -- August 1970 -- October 1970 -- December 1970 -- May 1971 -- Ending in July 1971. Lot's of good stuff.

 

Thanks!

 

To be honest so it your stock one. However the T-Birds has a factory shield. Prestige Thunderbird in Santa Fe Springs Ca sells the original and an extended one for dual M/C’s so I drove over and bought one instead of making one. The photo also shows a deflector for the prop valve which I made. Both are painted BBQ black and I bought some silver heat insulation reflecting tape. I’m checking the fluid for color changing and the temp is way under the limits of the fluid.
You also see the fake 2 hole plate for the top 2 holes of the original M/C.

 

Lancer : That's a good sounding Y-block!