So I have a 1946 Chevrolet 3100 that I'm doing a minor restoration on which currently has a stovebolt 216. The original owner had water in the block back in the 50's and cracked the block with an early fall freeze, so that motor was replaced with a 216 from a 1949 sedan. The owner's son rebuilt that 1949 216 when he placed it in the truck back in the 60's or 70's and continued to drive it for all of 62 miles before the master brake cylinder failed and he parked it until I trailered it home a few months ago. My question is in regards to ignition an fuel delivery. I plan on converting to a 12v system, is it worth putting in an HEI distributer, or just replace the coil and distributor components that are there? I also plan to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric fuel pump, with that being said, I like the idea of going to triple carburetors for the added power and the "coolness" factor. What kind of PSI and GPH would you fellas recommend for that type of application? The carburetor currently on the truck is an original style Carter W1 that I believe was bought new when the motor was rebuilt (It quite literally looks like it was never used). I also have the original Carter W1 carb that came on the original motor which I will rebuild. I also have the original carburetor that came off the current 216 that was on it when it came in the 1949 sedan "Carter YF". I would look in to selling/trading the Carter YF for another Carter W1 to use 3 W1's on an Offenhauser intake if that's possible. Is it worth going to multiple carburetors? If so, would 3 be that much better than 2? I plan on reducing the rear end gears to get some highway mileage out of her without too much RPM, so if I can increase the power I feel that she'll handle to rear gear better. The contributors to this website have far more knowledge and experience than I do so any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
You have a lot stuff to do first like make sure the engine is ready to run. Basic stuff...does it turn? The 50 year old oil, bugs and goo needs to be changed....stuff like this. Hopping up a Ford Banger (Model T,A and B 4 cylinder), a Mopar Flat six and a Chevy Stovebolt can be a great adventure. You have a vintage engine. The vintage stuff in good condition works well. Why complicate it?
I'm with F-one don't make changes or spend extra money until you actually know that it runs and hasn't got unknown issues. Rebuilding the carb isn't an issue but use the better of the two carbs. That is probably under thirty dollars total if you do it yourself. Clean out the fuel system including cleaning out the tank. It's time consuming but again not expensive and will have to be done sooner or later as any old gas residue or dirt in the tank eventually ends up in the fuel pump or carb. I wouldn't be making big changes to the ignition system until I heard the truck run and saw how it ran. Clean the points that are in it up if needed with an emery board or point file, make sure the gap is good and it should run. You don't want to run a 6 volt setup very long with 12 V but you are looking for yes it runs and sounds good or no we have unknown issues here. You could change to a 12 V coil and add a ballast resistor if you felt the need but you don't have to do a bunch of changes to the inside of the distributor at this time. Simply meaning do not spend a bunch of money on the extras you are wishing for until you know what you have and that it came as advertised. Meaning don't spend a bunch of money on an Hei and other dream items until you actually hear it run and maybe drive it. It's ok to rebuild the brakes if you never plan to change or upgrade them so it is safe to drive when it runs. That will have to be done at some time.
48 gives great preliminary startup advise ! Here's my 2 cent's worth. 3 singles on a stock 216 is not the best idea. Use a heated dual carb intake, and a pair of Rochester "B"s with #50 or #51 main jets. They're much easier to clean, way simpler for a novice to set up, and kits cost 2 -3 times less. Split the exhaust manifold, retaining the heat riser if you can find someone who still knows how. If not, iron headers can be plumbed for heat, but the tubing rots away in a year or two. For ignition - consider using '55 - '62 235 setup as it bolts in, and hook the vacuum advance to the front carb. It would really be wise to pull the pan to check a few of the bearings for acid etch since it sat for years.
Yes, I am in the process of "cleaning out the cobwebs". Engine turns over, valves are free and fluids have been flushed. I'm nowhere near ready to start the motor as it is now, but I'm trying get a better idea of where I'd like to go with this motor so that I can make better decisions now when it comes to replacing/repairing necessary items. And like I said, the guy that I bought if from rebuilt the motor and drove it a total of 62 miles before parking it in a garage, so luckily for me I'm starting with a motor in very respectable condition.
Hi John, I've been driving stove bolts for 45 plus years, in answer to your number of carbs question. One was never enough, Two drives out nice an economy goes up. My 261 gets 20 mpg at 65 mph with two carbs on a Eddy Edmonds intake and the stock 3 speed and overdrive in my 55 early pickup.Three carbs look cool no doubt about it, but you are normally running on just your center carb unless your balls to the wall and then its not much better then two and sometimes it worse. Your W1's are way cool but rochesters always seemed to work better for me. Like said previously fix it , drive it and then move forward.
John, Something you should ask the PO. is whether or not it got insert rod bearings when it was rebuilt. the seventies is about the time they started doing this conversion or so I've been told. If it still has the poured Babbitt linings it's a fairly soft bottom end. I scattered several.
The Babbitt bearings have been a concern of mine which is just part of the reason I'm asking these questions on this particular engine. The previous owner is actually my buddies uncle, I will reach out to see what might have been done with the rod bearings. I've just been assuming that the Babbitts are still there.
1) Keep it 6v, changing to 12v is not worth the bother. It will start and run fine if the electrics are up to snuff, if they are not, 12v won't help, it will only burn them out faster. 2)Nothing wrong with the original ignition. Clean the points if necessary, put a dab of grease about the size of a match head on the cam and you are good to go. Parts stores used to sell special grease for this, 79 cents for a tube that will last you a lifetime. Some old time parts stores may still have it. Clean and adjust the points every 10,000 miles or even 20,000 miles it will be fine. We used to just replace the points because they were cheap but today it is hard to find good quality points, it is better to clean and adjust the old ones as long as they last. Keep a spare condenser on hand, they tend to wear out or break down. 3) Keep the mechanical fuel pump. It may need a rebuild to be compatible with modern gas unless it was rebuilt since 1984. 4) Don't think about multiple carbs. You have a low speed workhorse engine with cast iron pistons babbitt bearings and splash lubrication. In a car, you don't want to go over 50 MPH or you will burn out a bearing. In a low geared truck it may be more like 40 or 45. Keep it stock, maintain it properly and don't flog it at high RPMs and it will still be around when you are old and gray. Mess around and you can blow it sky high in a month. If it is too slow you might as well go to a V8 or maybe a later six if you can find a good one. It all depends what you want to do. It will carry a heavy load and do a job for you it just won't do it very fast. For local use or occasional use it is fine. If you plan any coast to coast trips you will want a better truck or at least a better motor.
In the sixties you could walk into any parts store and buy a set of reconditioned rods with new babbit in them. Rings valves etc available cheap. Mains could usually be scraped and shimmed. You could rebuild one of those motors pretty easily and cheaply. A lot of parts are no longer available or are now hand made and expensive like poured babbit bearings. I would keep the motor stock. Maintain it by the book, take care of it and be happy. Try it out and see how you like it. Get everything else done first that it needs, such as brakes, tires, paint, upholstery etc. If you drive it for a while and the performance is driving you nuts, think about a V8 swap.
My 2 cents worth, I wouldn’t do anything to the 216 other than stock, with the exception of a 12v conversion. If you’re looking to do more than that, I suggest going with at least a 235, or a V8. The 216 is a good little engine, but doesn’t lend itself to hotrodding. I have a 216 driven car so I believe I can speak with a little bit of authority.
^^^^^^^^^ Old wives' tale. A lower end in good to excellent condition with clearances correctly adjusted will take as much abuse as any other '30s - '50s car. The key to longer service is using light viscosity oil, 10w in the old days, probably 5/30 (?) today ... the engine really reacts to the basics of rodding - 2 carbs, a set of .060 over popups, a cam, & headers will effortlessly run 70 MPH all day with 3.55 gears IF the bottom end is set up right.
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