If you were starting with a stock factory 30-31 Roadster body and a set of aftermarket rails you have the option of changing the final width a bit. Is there any reason this is worth thinking about, or just build a stone stock '32 frame? Bob
Some will say just use a stock 32 frame because that is how it was done in the early days. And if I were simply putting my A roadster body on a running, rolling, V8 Ford chassis, I would probably do the same. Especially if it was the mid 1950s or earlier. But that's not the scenario you've described. If I was starting with bare rails, without the front and rear crossmembers welded in, I would probably pinch the frame from the cowl on back to the front of the rear wheel wells. 30/31 A roadsters are not only narrower than a 32 at the cowl, they're also narrower at the front of the rear wheel wells. Pinching the rails a bit will create a nice even shadow line the length of the body from the overhang. That's what I did on my car.
THANKS! Since your Vicky is a Roll Model that info means a lot. My Roadster will be fenderless, well bobbed rears & cycle fronts. The Steelback will have a splash apron on the sides that will hide the '32 rails, plan to use the same chassis to set up both bodies. Goal is to have both bodies in finish primer, then I turn my attention to building the chassis. Fun stuff first. Bob
bob, cool your flee market prowess is filling your parts bins... '30-'31 A cowl sides outer skins are the same as the 32 frame... flush... i used an A front crossmember,,, the rear body between the wheelwells is 42"... i set my rear rails at 40" lets the wheelwells clear the frame... trim later. if you run the A hood the body is 2.5" too short... i moved the front crossmember back 1.25" and the rear ahead 1.25" ... shortened the '32 rear horns and tucked the '32 tank up to stock distance from the body... had to cut the lower panel as the A didn't have clearance for the tank's hight ... pm me your phone # and i can fill in any blanks my typing leaves out...
The easiest way to make the 32 frame “fit” width wise is to place the body on the floor and trace it. Then place the 32 rails so the points you want tucked in are. Measure across and those are your new dimensions. There is no need to pinch or bend any part of the rail to make it work.
I've done dozens of deuce chassis for 30 31 bodies. I build them almost to stock deuce specs except I squeeze the cowl a short inch and the front horns 1 3/4 Most buyers leave the rear horns on for the deuce tank.
Whatever you do, don't step the rear rails inward like Brookville does. A sure sign it's a modern build.
IMO... Its about the hood length, stock hood tells you the distance between the front edge of the front crossmember back to the cowl/hood seam... grill can't just move back, cowl to crossmember has to be right... also you will now bolt through the subrail into the '32 frame rail... 2" deep blocks... but the A's bolted through the crossrail and into the A frame rail... funky stock blocks...
Thanks, But you knew that was never going to happen. Every time I see one I think the owner changed his mind building some Pre Street thing. Bob
I'm going to get the Steelback body in one piece first, it is in more pieces than the Roadster (I think). I just can't do much without the foundation. Set up the chassis and rear axle location and fit the rear wheel well in the center and work forward, build the hood to fit the gap.
Pic of a '42-'47 Ford truck hood, has a LT to RT bow... the beltline beads are a little thicker... you can make it any length you need... set it up one piece or screw a piano hinge on... if you do this maybe buy a '46-'47 truck hood... they have the bonus stamped ford scripts... .hood side script... .welded into a reversed firewall...
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