Technical Grinding some of the Gas Tank center lip away.

Elky>>>I rather just get some money back>>>


I druther get all my money back. 8^) Jack E/NJ

 

Jack that's in a prefect world lol..

In a perfect world, I would get another tank from Summit that was all checked out as being the correct size.. For some reason I have trouble with gas tanks, fluid lines and wheels.. I finally stopped kicking myself for not getting an aluminum fuel cell..

 

I'm off today so Im going to try cutting the filler tube then take an inch or two off it then put it back using a 2" gas and oil rated hose. I might try to expand one side and have a over lapping connection instead of a butt connection.. The good thing is this pipe doesn't hold gas just directs it to the tank..

I wonder if I could solder the over lap connection with Map gas and silver solder.. Or just use a stainless Walker Band clamp that they sell for exhaust systems.. I would bend the tubing upwords if it wasn't connected to the bulky tank..

 

How much is too much? You don't do a Smokey Yunick and make a stock tank bigger, just a little pressure. Leak it off as you test. In my case the tank for my 39 didn't swell even a lick. Later ternplate GM tanks might "oil can" just a little. And you don't pressurize and seal it, and even the most badass duct tape won't hold sour owl shit in this case. What are you getting at?

 

Just enough to see a leak. 5 psi is lots.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

5 psi is MAX . , total force on the area of the tank is huge at 5 psi . A 55 gal drum will come unglued at 5 psi . . That’s a lot of area in the tank . Calculate it , 231 Cu in per gal . Total force equals area x psi . That’s much much more than one would think it really is defined as pressure . Nothing is made as it was in the good old days , always wear your PPE and use a regulated air supply . Honestly , the pressure side of a shop vac is plenty to pressurize your tank to check leaks with . I witnessed an explosion on a tank , years ago because the “ smart “ engineer instructed the hourly man to throttle the nitrogen tank valve to pressure the tank . The man never heard another sound the rest of his life . I can not stress the importance on a simple pressure test and doing it safely . Be safe , it’s tuff to explain to the family how stupid of a mistake you made , really for not knowing .

 

@deathrowdave ........231 cubic inches per gallon is ‘volume’, not area. The psi force is applied to area, not volume. For example a one cubic foot container is 1728 cubic inches (12 x12x12). But the same container has 864 square inches of surface area (12x12 =144 sq in per side x 6 sides).

The 5 psi used in the discussion is applied to the area.....psi = pounds per square inch, not pounds per cubic inch.

 

..............cubic inches is all we know and understand.................
.

 

Air pressure in the tank was often used to pump fuel in the early days of motoring. On many early racing cars you'll find something like a bicycle pump sticking through the dashboard: the driver would pump it every so often to pressurize the tank, and so keep fuel in the float chambers. Of course the pressures were very low. It doesn't take much to raise fuel a few inches.

 

Ok, I'ma fess up. I hit that fucker with 250PSI. Used a force multiplyer that pumped my 150 PSI from the compressor up another hundy. Why? Cuz I'm fuckin stoopid. Shit I didn't even know there was such a thing as cars til this topic rolled up. Holy kiss my go ta hell!

Ya know, I thought I was a bit of an overthinker about shit, double checking, sorting through wives tales and urban legends, then just good ol fashioned craftsmanship which takes time. Shit like check your work, inspect fits before welding, walk away and reinspect before final paint coatings, parts compatability, etc, etc, etc. I suppose I could go back and see where I suggested something stupid like the above, and shame on me for not getting my Dr. PSI set out and adding a gauge and regulating flow and determining exact barometric pressure that day to have the exact atmosphere for altitude corrected PSI for a simple fuckin soap bubble test. If I;d thought I needed to explain step by step detail as to the EXACT PRESSURE I USED, I woulda made sure some of the sensibilities above wouldn't be injured. I guess I thought anyone smart enough to even be in this topic would know how to determine when enuff is enuff and when stupid begets stupid. Sorry, I also didn't have a 1500 PSI nitrogen tank to pump it up with either. Just a shitty little blowgun, some duct tape, some soap water and a gingerly touch of air to read for leaks. Now I'm fuckin terrified to check all the final fittings before I commit to install for good. Have no fear, the science community will guide thru my incompetence and make sure I'm safe. I hope so at least. Geezuz fellas have a fuckin coffee...

 

@theHIGHLANDER ......suggest you take your own advice and have a cup of coffee! geeez.....what set THAT tirade in motion???

If you are as smart as you think you are (and are probably correct in that assessment) you would just let those who annoy you prattle on and go about your bidness.

Ray

 

If you can get a pipe with a slight joggle, and get the ends expandedso they slip on, you should be able to solder it. There is a certain liquid flux that works well. The trick is to not pour the heat to it. Once you see black residue, you may as well start over. I find that one of those HF butane micro torches works well for minimum heat. I can look it up if you want to get some. You might do a search for "soldering steel". I posted a thread a while back about doing it. Another thing is some "welding" rods that melt with a mapp torch and apparently don't need anything but heat. Bought some the other day but haven't tried them yet.
Best to have overlap instead of butt joint. If you can't find anyone to expand the pipe for you, send it to me and I'll do it for you.

 

Elco, just remembered something that might work real easy for you. I went out to the shop and took a few quick pictures. First is some hose made for fuel resistance. Think I bought it from Yogis. Second are some fuel fillers that are already bent and might be usable to extend/change what you have. Just cut your filler off and adapt something like this. I think these came from an S10. Just cut one to fit and use the hose to mate them together.

 

Wow ! I give up . I was just trying to remind you to safe . It’s obvious to me at this point you needed to help and no discussion . I’m so sorry to have offended anyone , I’m not on here to piss anyone off , it’s obvious life has a way of offending others . I’ll just stay under my rock , and creep out at night to watch and listen . Maybe I can learn more about life that way .

 

I ended up cutting both filler tubes off. I put the old one a little further back against the tank. I coupled them with gas tank filler hose.. Now I have the filler about 3" further back and not hitting anything. I'll have to see if the gas station filler gun fits the filler opening. Its about three inches back and about about three inches lower then the stock set up..

I've been reading on the net that a lot of people have issues with these new tanks, stainless, steel, a hundred dollars, five hundred dollars, it doesn't matter one bit...

 

Don't take this stuff to heart. Hey I like reading your posts.........

 

I have a a few old Magnahelic (sp) gauges and regulators. Regulators say to 2.5, gauges go to 2 psi. I use those and can see factory type tanks start to expand. That’s enough pressure for me to spray it and look for a leak after a repair. This is for fuel tanks, not a radiator

 

I won't appologize for my rant, however we seem to occasionally forget our simple logic or indeed that grain of salt. Maybe it's the current state of affaris, loss of swapmeets and car shows, whatever.

Now past that, I can feel the pain Elcohaulic is feeling. I have a new tank for the GTO (HAMB approved version, thank you) and since the OG is nice I probably won't use it. Seems it may require changes I don't wish to make. My early Ford replacement didn't fit without bending, denting and trimming but looks so nice anything less isn't worth it. Well, plus it came with the car so there's that. The continuation of the filler neck woes proves this out but I'm happy a solution was found. But this also seems like an opportunity to ask for something else I need for another car. Anyone have a decent 61 Olds station wagin gas tank laying about? Chevy, Pontiac or Buick is not the same. It seems I can buy one for a couple hundred bucks but before I do I'd like to try the work on a good used one if available. My hope was someone reading this had an epiphany and wondered what they'd do with that one in their garage rafters for the last decade or more. Ya don't know if ya don't ask. Oh yeah, what's it for? a 41 Packard 160 Sedan, not an Olds wagon. The dimensions are dead on to the gennie that was in it. Thanks kids...