Technical Major Pitting 31 Frame Motor Mount Area

The patch will be fine and looks good. If not, a crack will form and will need to be welded. Life moves on.

Vertical welds, weld bottom to top. May not be as easy but you will get much better penetration. Top down, the molten puddle will get ahead of the heat.

The problem with sagging frames is common. I boxed an area where the cowl sets on mine.

 

Laid another bead down in the radius. The sides smoothed out really nice after hitting em with a die grinder. I can guarantee good penetration all around. My only concern is where weld meets frame on the lower radius/pitting for future cracking. Off to the Z!

 

I think I would have stick welded those areas. JMHO

 

Lost, don't mind these guys giving you a little grief. I think you did a fine job repairing the frame. The Z looks familiar too. I did mine around 3 years ago. Keep posting man, it's looking good.

 

Thanks Aaron. I'm always up for suggestions and criticism. The Z is per Vern Tardel's "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hotrod." After I kept seeing the book referenced in all my HAMB searches for info, I went ahead and bought it. The book is gold! Thinkin I might start a thread.....more so as a place to ask questions.

 

Ya, start a build thread for sure. We all love seeing these hot rods coming together.

 

Nice job! I like to see people start with clean material, look forward to following the build. Bob

 

His Build thread

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-build-without-a-body.1218986/

 

The inside seam of your repair must be welded. For the strongest weld you really should open up the gap to a “V” for maximum penetration. If the area is to difficult to reach you can try to use a rotary bit but clean all the slag from your outside pass before you weld. Due to the fact that you have welded the outside and you have a thicker patch panel, turn up the heat, concentrate the heat toward the patch plate and burn it in well. You may also want to consider using your torch to preheat beyond your patch, this will help your heat sink which will also help to prevent brittleness in the metal surrounding your welds. Good luck!

 

Just keep doing what you are doing.looks nice

Sent from my LM-Q720 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hi, next time you Z a frame it is best to cut 45 degrees from the top rail, not 90 degrees like you have done. The 45 degree cut makes for a stronger weld joint and easier fabrication practice i.e. clamping, keeping frame square etc...

 

Several experienced guys have pointed out that it is a good idea to strengthen the chassis in the area you are repairing, as it is a prime location for sagging. You state that your chassis is straight................now. If you complete your build, and a sag develops down the track, I'm guessing you will wish you had been a little more receptive to the suggestions being given in this thread. Easy to do now. A royal pain in the ass later.........................

EDIT: Just read your build thread. Looks like you have moved on regardless.
I like everything else so far...........